TMicke
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Posts posted by TMicke
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Thank you!
May I be a PITA and ask for one more thing, if you bend and/or twist it in the wider part, where mine is cracked in the picture, will it still be in one piece?The reason I'm asking is that I could do the same in that area of the part that you bent yours, but as soon as I tried to bend elsewhere it cracked.
Sorry if I've been bad at explaining. No need for more pictures though.
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Haha, thats awesome! Next time replace the printed model with another one ?
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45 minutes ago, tinkergnome said:
...but nGen is a kind of PETG too (AFAIK) - at least it's based on PETG?
Wouldn't this give the same problems? Is it so super humid at your place that you have such concerns?
Well, I do not know for sure. It makes my head spin when every manufacturer wants to brand it with their own name. It does not snap crackle and pop while printing (pun intended) and their is no steam either.
From what I have understood there should not be much of an concern if your RH is below 50%, when using PET and PETG.
Here in Sweden it's the last of the highest humidity off the year, inside at the moment I'm having about 58% according to my two, don't know correct name; things that measure humidity ? (gauge or meter i suppose...)
Speaking of PETG, isn't true that ColorFabbs XT is PETG as well? Is Co-Polyester PETG? Or does all Co-Polyester just share the same characteristics that they collect moisture?
Would greatly appreciate if you could make a testprint, I will PM you the files with further instructions as how to bend ?
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6 hours ago, tinkergnome said:
Well, nGen is not as rigid as PLA, but far less brittle. It's is a good choice for functional parts (where impact strength counts), but perhaps not if you need high rigidity.
It's a bit weird that your nGen parts break so easily. I noticed exactly the opposite... Perhaps still too much fan? Usually it prints well without fan or with very low fan settings.
Have you tried other PETG? Like Ultimaker CPE? That's quite strong...
I am painfully aware that it should be ? so obviously I’m doing something wrong. If I posted the model from my first post, would you be willing to print out the top part like I did, and then fold the print once, take a picture and post it here. (Not that I wouldn’t trust you, but some things you just want to see for your self) I’m really all out of ideas. I had some trouble with nozzle and coupler before but that is all good now, just thinking out loud. Can’t say for sure that I tried with fans off, but for the most part I used to have the fans set to 10-15%.
I have two rolls of PETG, but I’m waiting for humidity in my house to drop a little more. I’m kind of convenient and don’t like the idea that I have to put my roll in the owen before each print. Maybe I have to do that regardless? Maybe a bucket for my roll with rice bags in it and a small hole in the lid for the filament to come through, that probably is the “best” solution?
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On 10/11/2018 at 3:46 AM, LePaul said:
I found 235 to be the magic temp for the parts I was printing.
How big of a difference was 230C and 240C compared to 235C? If you look at my pictures in the first post, could that be the difference between say 230C and 235C?
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There is never anything wrong with ordering from Sweden, but I could be bias ?
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I’m not really convinced by nGen, I think I had it printing as good as it gets*. I thought it would be more resilient but my feeling is that PLA is stronger in the sense I’m looking for.
I think a part of my problems at one point with nGen was due to HT, it clogged my nozzle ever so tiny, a little bit more every time i used It. And I deformed my teflon coupler. At the time I was jumping between nGen, HT and two different PLA leaving me with nothing but confusion. Just a heads up if you haven’t already noticed.
*edit: What I meant to say was that I could not get better results, not that the filament wasn’t better
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Problem solved, well at least I know how to avoid it. Thanks @smartavionics for your help.
For anyone else that it might help;
I had two models intersecting, a Viking and a Sword, see screen dump. To get rid of the problems with bottom line directions I raised the sword 1mm, so that it did NOT touch the bed. To be able to do that you have to make sure that 'Automatically [....] to the build plate' is un-checked in the preferences.
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Thank you for your time, much appreciated.
Since I’m a newbie with Cura I just want to ask, is this a reacurring error when merging models in Cura; am I better of merging them in another program?
Sidenote;
Just my luck, first attempt with Cura some month back it just started printing when I pressed print via USB without heating or homing any axes, pretty soon it slammed straight in the side and grinded against the printer wall. Managed somehow to get that to work. Then I printed one model with lots of support and I have never witnessed so many retractions and the travel speed was way to high so I was waiting for the printer to fall apart. Then I corrected that, I think, and next print got wasted with a clogged nozzle leaving it printing air.
Probably this tells more about me than the program ?
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Using Cura 3.5 on a Mac.
Am I missing something or does the top/bottom line directions not work as it should?
If i leave it empty between the brackets or if i fill in numbers is the same, first layer 45° (I presume), second and all the rest is 0° (or actually more like 1 or 2° when looking at in the printer while it prints, ever so slightly the X axle moves back and forth while printing layer 2 and up.
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I would love to be able to use my spacemouse in Cura.
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I've made some progress. Two changes, nozzle size and printing temp, but the temp is what made the difference.
Still needs improvement on overhangs but the overall quality is IMHO much better.
Filament - add:north X-PLA
The model is 80mm high. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3054970
Slicer S3D
Printer UM2+
Temp 190°, First layer 210° Otherwise it did not adhere to my bed
Speed 45mm/s
Layer .15mm
Nozzle .60mm
Printed width .55mm
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I managed to find Ultimakers guide via google;
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22188-how-to-replace-the-tfm-coupler
I guess I overcomplicated things when I started measuring the depth in the steel coupler to the "ledge" that starts before the threads end, looking down in it from above. Then I measured the length of the part of the TFM coupler that goes into the steel coupler and Houston, we have a problem. I wrongly assumed that it would be sitting tight all the way down against the "ledge".
In my confusion I also wondered how long are you supposed to screw the steel coupler on the heater block.
To make things more complicated I had the 3D Solex TF2K thingy, that is longer than original TFM coupler making it impossible to use Ultimakers above mentioned guide because you have to unscrew the metal coupler the same length that the TF2K is longer.
Please correct me here if I'm wrong!
What a mess but now it's time for a test run with my baby ❤️
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Looking for complete guide for changing TFM coupler on a UM2+, existing or if someone is willing to make one.
All I can find are old ones for the old printhead.
Had some bad luck with leakage caused by screwing it to loosely and I think I misshaped it a second time by screwing it to tight. When I tried to pull the PTFE coupler out of the steel coupler I had to use a plier and found out that the threaded, thinner, part of the steel coupler is ultra thin ?
I am using the TFK2K from 3D Solex (PTFE coupler and I2K chip). But since I'm thinking of abandoning printing at temperatures above 260° maybe I'm better of with standard TFM coupler?
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This is the best result I am able to get with add:north's X-PLA. White is usually the hardest color to print but I get similar result with the green as well. Black is better. I have tried temps from 210-230° with X-PLA and there isn't much of a difference, for me...
The one to the left is printed with Primaselect PLA PRO and to the right is X-PLA from add:north
I forgot to use support on the one printed with PLA PRO and realized that it was not needed...
The model is 80mm high.
Slicer S3D
Printer UM2+
Temp 220°
Speed 45mm/s
Layer .15mm
Nozzle .40mm
Printed width .35mm
I'm very disappointed with the result, if you have better results please post your settings and a picture is always nice.
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That looks really nice.
What settings did you use and what printer are they printed on?
Those overhangs are printed waaay better than I have ever achieved on any type of filaments.
I was just about to upload pictures on my X-PLA when I saw this
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2 minutes ago, SandervG said:
Nice idea! Have you ever considered printing them in something like Bronzefill? That may even oxidate when outside and give you a mode old/aging look.
Example:
Yeah, sure I have, but I think it wouldn't hold up for very long. A few years maybe? I have a thing against doing things that don't last...
But I would love to make one if I where a bit more confident that it would last in the weather outside.
Please do call me boring and dull ?
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It's on it's merry way...
Seven more models to print, to sit on seven poles along the road to my house.
Been looking for gargoyles but haven't really found one that looks like I picture it to be, at least none that is shared for free. So I have to pay up or learn how to make one my self ?
Next thing will be to get some paint on them, then we'll just have to wait and see how long they survive outside.
These two are printed with ColorFabbs nGen. I do not really get along with nGen but this will be a good testing.
They are 205mm high. I mirrored one of them so they are both facing inwards.
Edit:
Forgot to credit the maker of the owl;
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Haha, crap. I should pay more attention. I read ColorFabb and Ultimaker as the same ?
Cheers
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What version would you say I’m looking for?
I cant find/make out differences between amateur and 3DCprinting versions.
The price matters but most of all I want a program that lets me be more than restricted if I manage to get into modeling.
Edit,
Maybe I need both amateur and 3DCprint... hmmmm
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Yeah, 3D Coat made sense to me, I’m very impatient and perhaps a bit to intolerant when I try new programs. If I cant understand a thing and the menus look like something from a cockpit of an 787 then I’m off to the next. Tried Zbrush and that gave me that cockpit anxiety ?
I’m well aware of the term ‘steep learning curve’, but what can I say. Sometimes I go a few laps around programs and end up with one of those I rejected the most.
I realize I have a ton of new terms to learn, like the difference between voxel and mesh wich I understand is pretty much as basic as it gets ?. For starters I’m aiming at beeing able to clean up some scans that is beeing shared.
Just want to say that I very much appreciate your postings like this one, and many of your other postings too of course...
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Thank you for yet another great posting. You really are inspiring.
Yesterday I downloaded 3dcoat and I think I like it alot. Now when winter is approaching I’m hoping for some quality time in front of the screen trying to learn how to make some nice models.
And that is a really nice looking print! What filament did you use?
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7 hours ago, tinkergnome said:
Colorfabb uses different spools,
Yes? Not sure I understand.
colorFabb nGen - Cant get it to work properly
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Once again, ty!
My bending goal is that the result I got was laughable, but now I clearly see that most probably I’ve done some bad printings. (It is possible that the filament was bad but as I’ve said earlier, three rolls with different colors gave the same result so I don’t consider that very likely)
I’m not looking for flexibility per say, just a print that doesen’t snap the moment I twist it. If I printed that model in PLA I think I could twist and bend it like you have done. My main purpose was for this phone holder to withstand the summer heat in my car.
What you have shown me with your pictures is exactly what I was expecting to get with my prints. If I twisted my print a fraction of what you did in your pictures from this last post it snapped, cracked, split as you can se in in the picture from my initial posting, in diagonal none the less wich led me to belive that it was truly brittle as the layer bonding was great. And I easily did with my bare hands.
Tomorrow I will try your fff file, I didn’t see any real difference in it from what I remeber to have tried but something sure is different with our results.
Will get back with my results tomorrow when my current printing is done.