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Everything posted by Adam324

  1. Has anyone taken the time to find settings to make it behave close to the original settings but just put fan at 100% during bridging? I don't want all the bridge setting complications. I was hoping to just tell Cura to speed to fan to 100% for the first bridge layer. I have some filament that layers do not adhere well at all unless the fan is at 50% but I would like the fan at 100% for first layer bridging (and ideally first layer over top of support).
  2. Do you know if the work you put into this will eventually be integrated into mainline Cura? I think I recall there was a pull request created for it. Do you know if that went anywhere in the official Cura circles? This makes a HUGE difference in eliminating slowdown while printing support up close to the object. This is just a regular object that needs support and not like the previous example where I was trying to keep the object from tipping over. I tested 4.6.1 official release and it is still having issues with slowdown with support around objects. I have included the project for 4.6.1 that was used to print it. The speed difference when printing the support when close to the object with your build doesn't slow down at all and makes a big difference with underextrusion when it moves to the next area. WD9_FanLightDiffuser_BaseV9Beta.3mf FanLightDiffuser_BaseV9Beta.stl
  3. I was just having kind of the opposite problem where the support was being tethered to the object in a lot of spots and that was fixed by disabling the 'Limit support retractions' (Thanks burtoogle). That might work too well in some prints though where not touching support at all will allow some movement of the object. I could move the support closer but I think you would have to get it so close that you would have problems with it sticking too well to the object. I will have to experiment with support X/Y distance settings under those circumstances. For tall and thin objects, I tend to use custom support and put a square of custom support around it up about 30 or 40 percent of the height to give it support. I was just thinking that it might be a neat feature to allow the support to connect to the object for 1 string 'bridged' to the object (maybe randomly at different degrees around the object) every 5 or 10 or 20 or 50 layers even (maybe configurable) to help hold the object in place inside the support when printing very tall thin objects that need some help to keep them from falling over or easily moving inside the support causing the top of the print to look not as good because of the object's slight movement. With having control over how often it happens, it could be tweaked to give good holding power but ease of removal. Maybe this could be a new support type to define what area you need this for instead of global for the whole print. Most people likely use support underneath objects as they are usually big enough on bottom to stay upright. I tend to print quite a few tall thin objects that need to be printed upright (like pens) that need help as they go up to keep them stationary for printing. Another idea I had was a 45 degree angle (configurable) support tower where you touch a spot on the object and a 45 degree support tower is created going up to the object at that point from the outside to that point. This would not require support going all the way around the object but it might require quite a few of them so I am not sure this would work well or not. I think this would take more filament though and would take longer as the angle would push the print area larger. Very easy for me to say ideas like this... Implementing them... is another thing entirely I am sure. I am curious how others are dealing with this that might print a lot of tall thin objects that can't be laid down flat because of a lot of rounded or detailed areas on the sides of the objects.
  4. Your latest gcode with 'limit support retractions turned off' worked great. The issue was not related to the mod you did as I suspected(and you likely knew 🙂). The best print I have had. I will be keeping that setting off until I find a way for it to not do that when it goes through the object's walls. You have likely solved other issues I have had in the past with support sticking too well when using support like this. Thanks! The 'limit support retractions turned off' might actually work too well for some prints as it doesn't have any lines going to the print to keep it still. The print can move easier now inside the support as the support really isn't touching it. If I ever need it to be closer though I can just adjust the settings to bring the support closer. Looking forward to the build with the mod to fix the slowdown. Thanks.
  5. I think that is it! I guess your gcode just goes a different direction and is a lot more noticeable. I have never played with that setting (was still hidden) so the profile I started using must have had it enabled or it just defaults to enabled. I wonder if that is a bug that 'Limit Support retractions' does not retract when going through the printed object walls? I would think that would only apply if it were going from support to support but only if it did not traverse the object. I am obviously wrong though :). I will disable that on my Cura as I never want it to not retract when going over the object. I think it is just showing up a lot more with this not so good filament I am using that oozes a lot more than any other I have had but requires high temps to keep it from having empty spots from not extruding. I am printing your newer gcode now. EDIT: I see that there are still some lines going directly to the object with Cura 4.5.0, there are just not as many so this setting is the problem.
  6. I printed with your moded Cura gcode again with lower temp settings (almost to where it is starting to have layer issues) and I think there must be some setting missing or something else causing this new behavior where travel moves to the object are somehow extruding filament where it isn't with my Cura. I am thinking it is not related to the speed fix that you did. I will hopefully be able to verify that when I get your build of Cura. I have never seen this kind of behavior before. The support looks plenty far away from the object to be causing it to stick to the object. I have a feeling your mod is fine unless it is somehow causing a problem with another area of Cura/feature. I broke the top off the pen so that we can see directly down into the support area with the pic below.
  7. Does the Cura preview in your build show it close in that area? EDIT: I am going to print it again at lower temps. It never stuck like that before but I know that this filament is pretty oozy as I get some stringing in the support area because I have needed it a little hotter to print right (Makergeeks Dragons Metallic PLA). Maybe with this mod, it is just a little closer with this new mod or maybe it is taking a new path that it didn't before. Looking at it with pronterface, I think that is where there is a travel move from support to the wall on the other side. I am also going to print the original gcode file again.
  8. EDIT: Disregard this post. Burtoogle figured this out for me too. This issue was related to having 'limit support retractions' turned on and not a problem with the mod. The mod works great! Limit support retractions does not appear to retract when going through an object wall. Well... After trying to remove the support, It looks like it stuck to the object pretty good in 1 or 2 areas where the old VERY slow version didn't. Those lines are stuck really good to the part. EDIT: FYI... I broke it right above the support area so it is shorter than it normally would be. This is the bottom section.
  9. Thanks! I look forward to using a build with the mod.
  10. Very fast. It is working great! Night and day difference. Nice job. The support was missing a lot of sections before and now it is all 100% solid. I was also getting zits or blobs and it looks like that is gone now too (40% printed so far). It appears you didn't have the zoffset plugin installed so I had to adjust the z like the plug does but it printed great after that. Very easily done though. I wouldn't have expected you to know that :). G0 F3600 X144.966 Y143.593 Z0.82 ; manually adjusted z offset like the zoffset plugin G92 Z0.2 ;consider this the original z before offset
  11. Thanks for the input. I removed the fillet from the corners and made the pen solid all the way through just to make the object simpler and the support around it still comes to a crawl next to the object. It must not be the detailed fillet. I went back to 4.3 cura and it has the same behavior. Maybe something about the twisting walls not being sliced well?
  12. Oops. I forgot to include that in the .zip. Here it is. WD9_Body18.3mf
  13. I am printing a pen that I am trying to design. I need support around it so that it doesn't fall over when printing. When I add the support, the generated preview and actual print speed of the nozzle movement is VERY slow when printing the support around the object. It is to the point that filament leaks out of the print head causing underextrusion. If I reduce the nozzle temp, the filament will not print well so I can't compensate by lowering the temp. If I print the object without support, or other objects where I don't use support like this, I don't get underextrusion with the same filament. I suspect the wall design is somehow causing the support gcode around the object to be way to precise causing an extreme slowdown or something but I really don't know. Anyone have any idea why support gcode would be so slow around this object? I zipped up the saved project in Cura and also the .stl file and attached it to this thread. WD9_Body18.zip
  14. Nice that the marketplace is updated. Thanks. Will start testing it myself. I depend on the ZOffset plugin to work. I wonder if the burtoogle fix for adaptive layers will ever get integrated. It fixes the issue where if you set dynamic layers to 0.2 with a variation down to 0.1 and up to 0.3, The top layer count will not factor in that the top layer might be at 0.1mm layer height. It takes the 0.2mm layer height to figure out how many layers instead of 0.1mm. You end up with only 4 layers of 0.1 mm instead of 8 layers of 0.1 mm to equal the top thickness setting of 0.8 mm top skin.
  15. EDIT: Ignore this. I can clearly see in the layer view that the design is at fault.
  16. Incorrect info. Info about who created the test fix is already posted correctly above.
  17. Printing now... I am really looking forward to being able to use adaptive layers without worrying about either wasting material or compromising on thickness. I had to always bump up the top/bottom layer count to make up for the thinnest top layer and wasting plastic on the top/bottom layers that are at the max thickness. This change you made will make adaptive layers worth using to me.
  18. Thanks! This is looking good to me. I brought back some of my old prints that I did where the top layers were too thin because of adaptive layers (causing bubbling and holes between infill lines), and the top layers are showing the correct thickness now. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2764962 The Riser.stl from that was a problem to print using the previous adaptive layers implementation with a layer height of 0.2mm and adaptive layers set to maximum variation of 0.1 and a variation step size of 0.02. The preview looks good so I will go ahead and print it.
  19. Thanks! I didn't notice that. I will check it out.
  20. I have printed quite a few objects where I forgot that I had pause postprocessing plugin enabled and came back later to a print that was paused waiting for me to change the filament. Yes... it is my fault for not checking that :). Is there any chance of a visual indicator or for a pause plugins to pop up anther info box (whatever makes sense) to help remind us that a pause was put into the gcode? There are a lot of ways it could be done but I am not sure what really would make sense to do. My favorite is #3 so far. Any other ideas? 1. Temporary Info box when you slice. This idea would likely be too much of a nuisance when you always have pauses in your prints so likely not the best idea. 2. A note on the slice status to say that a pause plugin is enabled. Not in your way and just helps indicate that a pause is in the print. This I kind of like. 3. When you click the button to send the print to the printer or save the gcode, a temporary info window (non blocking like the other info rectangular areas that pop up to let you know what is going on). This isn't as much as a nuisance and it would be a nice reminder. Maybe people wouldn't like the additional info box though if they do pauses all the time. Maybe it could be an option or something. 4. Other ideas?
  21. And your plugins make Cura work better for a lot of people I bet. My favorite is the z-offset. Thank you for them.
  22. See my post below on using 'Outer wall inset'. Horizontal expansion essentially just scales the whole design bigger or smaller. 'Outer wall inset' move the outer wall in toward the inner wall a set amount to compensate for a line width that is slightly larger than what you specify.
  23. This is the STL file I designed last year to measure 100 mm center to center of the raised lines. The outer most marks are designed to be 100 mm center to center on X, Y, and Z. 50-100-110-calibration-ruler-minimal-v8.stl
  24. I found something that helped with this exact problem recently and was excited about it...
  25. I have been racking my brain for months trying to deal my prints always being about 0.2 mm outside to outside or so bigger and hole diameters around the same smaller than what the CAD/STL dimensions are. This doesn't always matter but for designs that need to fit real world dimensions it can be an issue. Ideally all parts printed would be the correct dimension for holes and outside dimensions as designed in fusion 360 and allowing the design to be used for 3d printing and other real world uses without needing to compensate for slight printing over-extrusion on the outer walls and skewing your design sizes. Most people seem to calibrate a 100 mm by 100 mm outside to outside dimension object. That is not ideal though as hole dimensions will be smaller when printed as the outside to outside measurement assumes that a line is exactly 0.4 mm when printed on the outside wall which is not correct in my testing and experience. To calibrate the X and Y dimensions, I print a 90 degree L shaped design that is 4 mm wide by 110 mm in X and 110 mm in Y length. I designed some lines on top of the surface that are exactly 100 mm apart in both X and Y dimensions. For a perfectly calibrated FDM printer, If you were to measure from outside to outside of those raised bumps, you would be measuring slightly over 100 mm because the measurement should be 100 mm to 100 mm center to center. I don't expect a 100 mm by 100 mm cube to be 100 mm to 100 mm outside to outside because that assumes that wall lines are exactly 0.4 mm when printed which isn't the case with FDM printing. The outside wall line doesn't have any filament to push up against on the outer side so it expands more than 0.4 mm. You could try and adjust the line width to be exactly 0.4 mm but that would not work well at all. You wouldn't fill the voids between filament lines enough to have good adhesion and the lines would be more visible. From everything I read, It seems that it is normal to have a single 0.4 mm line width to be bigger than that. Because of this I calibrate to be 100 mm center to center of the lines on a 110 mm length print. I have tried to compensate using a few methods for the line width on the outside of the outer wall being slightly bigger but none of them work for all scenarios or they require extra design adjustments to make up for it. 1. Designing all my stuff with a around 0.2 mm larger holes and 0.2 mm outside to outside (0.1 mm per side) smaller size for non hole outside faces. 2. For already designed STL files that don't have FDM tolerances built in, scale the part size bigger if the holes are smaller than actual dimensions. For outside dimensions that need to be the correct precise size, I scale the part smaller or do a lot of sanding which sometimes is not possible if the design is very complex. If you need both holes and outside dimensions to be accurate you are in trouble as you have to pick on or the other and do sanding if you scale it bigger or drilling out the holes. Cura's Horizontal Expansion can do the same thing as scaling the size of it in the slicer but either of those do one of 2 things... either fix holes and expand the outside dimensions or... fix the outside dimensions and make holes smaller. I finally found the setting in Cura that does exactly what I need. It moves the outside wall (realize that the inside of a circle is also an outside wall) toward the inside wall by a certain amount. This allows me to have an exactly calibrated 100 mm to 100 mm line (center to center) and adjust for the line being a little over 0.4 mm causing the outside wall to be over-extruded by somewhere around 0.6 to 0.1 mm per side (Depending on your printer and filament size setting accuracy and flow settings). The setting is called 'Outer wall inset'. You give it a positive value to move the wall inward toward the inner wall by this amount. I set it to around 0.1 mm on my prints to get the outside dimensions and hole dimensions to be exactly how I designed them in Fusion 360. For most prints from thingiverse I leave that feature disabled because most designers have tolerance built into prints to make them fit together. There are some that are not though like some sockets I found on thingiverse. For my own future designs, I am designing them to the actual real world dimensions that I want and then use the 'Outer wall inset' to adjust for line width being slightly bigger on the outside wall's outside facing surface. Hopefully this makes sense to someone as I am not the best at trying to explain things... I was very excited to find this setting though because I have searched on this issue for a long time and never found anything mentioning using this setting for this purpose. The only thing I found on 'Outer wall inset' seemed to indicate it is used to make up for setting a line width smaller than the nozzle size (which Cura automatically adjusts) to get the outer wall to overlap the inner wall more. Then again... I am relatively new to 3d printing (about a year or so)... I have certainly been wrong many times in my life and been in many situations thinking I understand something when I really don't :).
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