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Smithy

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Posts posted by Smithy

  1. The corrections are depending on different parameters like layer height, speed, temperature, and a lot of other parameters, so when you make try and error rounds to find your setting, do it with the settings you want to have for the final print.

     

    Of course UM could make this "automatic" in Cura, but due the fact, thats depending on so much parameters, it will not be so easy, to fit all circumstances. But yes, they have everything under control and it would be more less possible.

     

    On the other hand, I have a colleague here with an Anet A8 and watching him, modifying, tuning and operate his printer, then you actually see how small the UM problems are. Working with such a China thing is really pain in the ass, but ok, they cost a fraction of an Ultimaker.

    • Like 1
  2. Inner holes are always a problem and always too small. The only solution is to make a correction in the CAD file, but bad if you want to use this CAD file after the prototype for real production on CNC machines. The reason is melting/cooling/expansion of the material and at the hole there is nothing on one side, so the material can easily expand "in the hole". And different materials have different expansions. With PLA there is the same effect, but not so much.

     

    So you can adjust the outer dimensions with a negative horizontal expansion and for the hole you can only adjust in the source file and make the hole bigger.

     

    Regarding the material profiles, I fully agree. I do not expect, that a 3rd party filament is perfectly tuned for the UM machines, but UM material should. And you know what we tested in the other thread with the UM CPE material. 

  3. Can be several reasons, material, too fast, too hot, or some other settings.

     

    Best you start with a default Cura profile, maybe the "normal" or "fine" one and only set the initial layer horizontal expansion and thats it. Leave all other settings untouched and use the defaults. Check if you have set the correct material profile. Use PLA for this tests, other materials needs more fine tuning, but first of all you should get PLA running. Then you should get a good result.

     

    Next step is to get more dimensional accuracy. For that you should slower the speed and set all different speed types to the same value (inner, outer, ....) Use a speed of 30mm/sec.

     

    You can also try to disable acceleration and jerk control (checkboxes in Cura), both can also help to get better accuracy, but on the other side you will get more "ringing" on the surface due the vibrations of the print head on direction changes.

     

    If this also is not helpful, then you can play with "horizontal expansion" to give the whole object more or less in the x/x direction. But be careful, this is not a one time setup. Other material, even other color of the same material can behave different, so you should check it every time before you use a different material.

     

    Regarding material: PLA is the easiest to print, CPE (PETG) is for example not so easy to print, also not with UM material and their default settings. So stay first with PLA, get some experiences and trust for our printer. If PLA works for you out of the box, then play with other materials.

  4. What have you tried so far?

    What is the result with "first layer horizontal expansion"? Have you tried it?

    Which other settings, profiles are you using? 

    What about the belt, have you checked the video and tried to loosen the pulley and tighten it again, that the belt is ok again?

     

    It is hard to give hints to point you in the right direction, when you don't give us more informations and the results of previous advises. Only showing a picture of a bad print without details is not enough.

  5. This was a iPad stand from Thingiverse, I will do some tests this evening with a simple object from Fusion 360, then I will see whats going on.

     

    From time to time, I have this misalignments on single layers, but haven't checked it deeply. Most of the misalignments are always in the layer where also some other things happens, i.e. begin of a round corner, the end of another wall, ..... So maybe this is really a slicing issue and not a hardware issue.

  6. The elephant foot is no feature, it is a consequence of another feature - good bed adhesion of the first layer. Due the fact that the first layer needs to be squeezed to the bed, the elephant foot is a result of it. But as mentioned above, you can set first layer horizontal expansion to -0.25 or something like that to avoid the elephant foot.

     

    If the belt is too loose, you can quickly fix it - here is more info about it and also a video how to do it:

     

    Regarding print quality, I think you do something wrong with the settings. Maybe too hot or too fast. If you provide some more infos about the settings you use, we can look into this issue and give some advises. 

     

    But also keep in mind, that a FDM printer is not as accurate as a CNC machine and you will never get 100% perfect results without any post processing (sanding etc.) If dimension accuracy is your absolutely priority 1, then print really really slow, set all speeds to the same value, turn off acceleration on jerk control and use a small layer height. Also printing as cool as possible could help.

     

    • Like 1
  7. Hallo

    mit Cura geht das nicht, da für beide Print Cores immer die gleiche Layerhöhe verwendet wird.

     

    Aber, ich habe erst vor wenigen Tagen gelernt, das Simplify3D dieses Feature hat, da kannst du z.B. für Infill andere Layerhöhen verwenden also für die Outerwall. 

     

    Hier der entsprechende Artikel von Digibike:

     

  8. Thanks, I will check it in the evening, I only checked the belts so far.

     

    But I have checked the layer view in Cura now and found something interesting. Not sure if it is really a failure in slicing or only an artifact when looking on the model, but there are also these shifts:

    2043604110_Bildschirmfoto2018-09-05um13_21_00.thumb.png.bef3a14f67f568d9b4abf8dee84bdd02.png

     

    But they are only noticeable when looking from a specific angle in Cura and also only when zoomed in high enough. So probable just a display issue in Cura and not in the GCode, but how knows.

  9. Hi

    I can see from time to time a single or sometimes a second layer shift on my objects. The rest of the print is quite fine without any problems and look pretty good. The layer shift is not only in Y axis, it is also "feelable" in the X axis, but not so present than in Y.

     

    Here is picture what I mean:

    B31DAD0A-BAE4-4D69-9179-CBD393C1A648.thumb.jpeg.10cf3d3f7033d593b29f6b382b44a789.jpeg

     

    There is a second shift in the upper, but it is only noticeable on the picture now, I haven't seen it before.

    37F64172-C19C-4A29-AE47-9B66D6E8B0BD.thumb.jpeg.96baa92f974fa90d44d54297911a1152.jpeg

     

    I checked the belts and they are fine in my opinion. I think if there is something mechanical wrong, than I would have this issue more often.

     

    Can it be a problem of the slicer (Cura)? I can check it in layer view, but haven't done it yet, but I am not sure if I would see such a small shift.

     

    What else could cause this shift, any ideas?

     

    Thanks a lot!

  10. I would also be interested in iPhone 3D scanning, checked Recap, but for fun its too expensive. All what I want to try is, to make some scans of my family, to print them afterwards.

     

    I have an iPhone X which should be able to have better scanning capabilities due Face ID , but it seems no app is using it (or Apple don't have APIs for it and don't allow 3rd party apps to use the Face ID functions)

  11. Hi Digibike

     

    Mit Profilen meine ich das Druckerprofil, womit S3D weiß wie groß das Bauvolumen ist und halt noch andere Parameter von dem Drucker. Ob das in der Software auch so ist wie in Cura weiß ich nicht, aber ich hab da mal etwas im S3D Forum gelesen. Irgendwo habe ich dann gelesen, dass das mitgelieferte Profil für den UM3 nicht so ganz funktioniert oder Fehler drinnen sind.

     

    Es sollt auch Probleme geben, dass der Druckkopf an die Klammern am Printbett anfährt, wobei ich jetzt nicht weiß ob das möglicherweise nur beim Dualdruck so ist. Apropos Dual, funktioniert das auch ohne Probleme in S3D? Weil hier wird etwas über eine nötige Firmware Änderung geschrieben: https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=8319

     

    Ich tue mir recht schwer, weil ich zwar immer lese, dass S3D um einiges besser sein soll, aber ich kaum jemanden finde mit einem UM3 der nicht Cura nutzt. Die Materialprofile sind mir nicht so wichtig, aber wie sieht es mit den Print Cores aus, kann man in S3D auch unterschiedliche Profile/Configs abspeichern, dass wenn ich einen anderen Print Core in den Drucker gebe, die Settings wie Wall Width etc. gleich auf einmal umstellen kann oder muss man durch die Settings durchgehen und einzeln einstellen?

     

    Ist halt auch ungünstig, dass es keine Testversion von S3D gibt. Ich würde sie schon gerne einmal ausprobieren und dann entscheiden was für mich besser ist, aber kaufen und dann testen will ich auch nicht, wenn ich nirgends eine supportete Unterstützung für den UM3 sehe.

     

     

  12. I don't know which printer you are using, but with the UM3 there is a bug with this plugin as far as I know. I don't have it in my mind exactly, but I read some days ago a post about such problems with the UM3.

     

    Another possibility could be, that your feeder has grinded the filament and cannot move if forward. But this is something you would see on the filament and when you start the print the problem would still exists.

  13. In my opinion the bed temperature is too high, set it a little bit lower. Default is 60° but as DF-Werkzeugservice said, it is maybe better to lower it even more. 

     

    And 210° print temperature is in a normal range with the 0.4er nozzle, but with 0.25 it could also be a little bit too high. Try to lower it to 200° or even 190°. You don't need much melted material with the 0.25 print core and a low speed of 25mm/sec as you have configured, so I think that cooler is better. 

     

    I use different kinds of PLA manufactures like Colorfabb, Ultimaker, Innofil, but I use for all the default settings and adjust only when doing "abnormal" things ? 

  14. 21 minutes ago, nallath said:

    Uh? Where did you get that information? Next firmware release will be for both machines. 

     

    I very much doubt that a similar issue exists in the released state of S5 and UM3, since pretty drastic changes have been made on the side of Cura Connect. Could be that it's in a part that wasn't touched, but chances of that are pretty low.

    I read it here in the forum here somewhere, but I don't know exactly - I think it was not someone from the UM team.

     

    When do you expect the new release?

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