Smithy
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Smithy
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It is really strange, 80mm/s sounds much for the first moment, but yes it is the default print speed for the 0.15 profile, and actually, you just print infill with that speed, everything else is 30mm/s or 40mm/s which is ok.
Which brand of PLA are you using? If it is some cheap China filament, it could be that the nozzle will be clogged with the time, or the filament diameter is not consistent over the spool.
Another idea is, that if the spool comes near to the end, that the friction is much higher than with a new spool, could this be your problem?
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Hi Fabian and welcome aboard!
Are you sure you have calibrated your bed correctly? It looks like, your nozzle is too far away from the bed.
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6 minutes ago, Orthopus said:
I've enclosed the printer in a chest made from heat insulation material. I felt the temperature inside was much hotter than the room temp so I will lower it down.
For ABS it is good when it is warm inside, approximately 40-45°C but not more because then your stepper motors begin to overheat. For PLA prints you should print it "open" without any cover, otherwise, your PLA prints will fail because of too much heat.
If you reprint it with 100% flow and 240°, check if you get under extrusion, if so, increase the temperature by 5°. You will get much better results when you print as cool as possible.
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I glue my normal PLA parts with the Revell Contacta Professional, because you can move and align the parts for several minutes. The drawback you have to fix it afterward until the glue is dry.
17 minutes ago, geert_2 said:I haven't seen or felt Tough PLA in life yet, so I was just guessing that it would be a bit more flexible.
You should definitely give it a try if you print technical parts and don't need temperature resistance. It is easy to print as PLA and much tougher than normal PLA. I like it and use it a lot.
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My first advice would be the print core itself, but if you have changed it already to the other one, then something else must be the problem.
How fast do you print? I mean, if you print too fast, the feeder pushes the filament forward, but your nozzle cannot melt that amount of material in time and with the time, the nozzle gets clogged.
How hot do your print?
When you clean your nozzle, do you make cold/hot pulls as described in the maintenance guide?
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36 minutes ago, geert_2 said:
I don't know how well cyanoacrylate will handle flexing models, but if the area that is bonded does not flex, or not too much, I think chances are good.
I think you mixed it up with TPU, because ToughPLA is not flexible at all.
I haven't tried yet to glue ToughPLA parts together, but I would try it with cyanoacrylate, I think this should work.
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Du solltest aber dann auch auf jeden Fall eine analoge Uhr dazustellen, das schaut dann besonders toll aus.
Wenn du dein Setup fertig hast, bitte unbedingt ein Video hier zeigen.
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The chosen object is not the easiest one to test or try new filament, because the layer is very small and therefore the filament cannot cool down enough. So you should set the "Minimum Layer Time" to 10sec or so, maybe higher.
Second, I think you print too hot, but I don't know the specifications of your filament, but normally ABS is printed cooler and when I look on your layers at the base, I still think it was too hot.
To get a good layer bonding, you should put the printer in an enclosure or cover the front. Depending on your room temperature it can also be necessary to cover the top of your printer with some cardboard. This is needed to keep the air warm inside, round about 45°, which is needed for printing ABS. But now I have seen you wrote, you have isolated the printer, which is ok if it gets not too warm inside. So you definitely need some ventilation to get the warm/hot air out o your box.
Flow: Why have you set flow to 106%? Keep it at 100% and check it again.
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Dass deine Druckqualität darunter leiden wird denke ich auch, die Vorgangsweise ist nicht wirklich optimal, da würde ich lieber den Druckkopf im Bild in Kauf nehmen.
Aber abgesehen davon, finde ich deine Umsetzung ziemlich cool, gefällt mir 🙂
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I have secured mine with these little "blockers"
Here the STL if you want to print it - S5_Blocker.stl (print 2 normal, and 2 mirrored)
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6 hours ago, PaulK said:
Getting a big spool to feed to your S5 ...
Great idea! Is it your design?
Also the cabinet is nice, looks like the IKEA "Alex" which I am also using for my S5. Just be careful that the printer will not fall of the cabinet. I have secured mine that the printer cannot slip off.
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I would say it is normal if you print just a single wall. It is like printing a hole which is also smaller due the expanding of the material. You can only try if you can compensate it with a lower flow value or a smaller line width.
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32 minutes ago, ZachRose said:
Also @Smithy if you go to the bottom and use the sign in with Ultimaker Forum button everything should work fine!
Thanks for the hint, will give it a try.
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From the technical point of view it is possible, but not so easy, because the printer is then on another network than the workstation the user uses. So you have also to configure the NAT forwarding to get back to the printer. But yes it is an option, or enable the developer mode, ssh into the printer and set a static IP there. But this should be done by someone who as some experiences with Linux.
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Die Sperre kannst du glaube ich nicht aufheben, aber du könntest tricksen indem du deinen Drucktisch entsprechend größer einstellst.
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I think it is better to use the vase mode, if you model allows to use it. Search for spiralized mode in Cura and enable it.
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33 minutes ago, nils91 said:
i wish u could just block the computers from ultimakers so they are forced to use this shitty dropdown menu themself.
Perfect start posting when joining a new community, welcome on board.
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Unfortunately not, maybe with the next firmware. But I guess also not because the next UM3 firmware will be a "clone" of the S5 firmware and there is still no option to set a static address.
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23 minutes ago, stoccarda said:
Does an update on the UM3 from 4.3.3.20180529 to 5.18 using a USB stick work?
The UM3 runs the update, but after reboot still 4.3.3. is indicated.
4.3.3. is the latest firmware for the UM3.
You cannot install the S5 firmware to the UM3.
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Yes and no, you have to change a lot to print with 1.75.
Print Cores, which are officially only available for 2.85, Bowden Tube, and you have to modify or change the feeder as well. After you have changed all these things you will probably get problems with the long Bowden tube and the thin filament.
So I would not do that, you get a lot of drawbacks and no real advantages.
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Filament is one option, but also different room temperature and humidity can cause such things.
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Interesting, thanks for sharing the information.
But it seems the new company is very Ultimaker related 🙂
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That's right what Waldo says, the distance between the two aluminum parts (table and the plate below the glass) should be approximately 14mm. Also the nozzles should be clean, some parts of plastic can also disturbe the leveling process.
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If you want to use buildtak you have to turn off the auto leveling, otherwise, it will not work.
Why? The auto leveling works with a capacity sensor which measures the distance between the nozzle and the aluminum plate below the glass. The buildtak is too soft for the nozzle and additionally, the nozzle could melt a hole in the buildtak, because the leveling process is done with a hot nozzle.
minor inaccuracies no same place, for about every layer
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
It could be the z seam. Try to set to set "Z Seam Alignment" to random, then it should be distributed all over your object.