Smithy
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Posts posted by Smithy
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Hallo Matthias
du wirst hier im Forum wenig dazu finden, da hier die meisten Ultimaker Drucker haben.
Aber ich weiß, dass der Ender 3 ein Problem mit dem Feeder hat und anscheinend zuwenig Spannung auf der Feder liegt die das Rändelrad gegen das Filament drückt. Aber wenn du sagst es kommt gar nichts raus, klingt das eher nach einem anderen Problem.
Trotzdem solltest in der Gegend vom Feeder suchen, dreht sich der Steppermotor dort? Dreht sich das Rändelrad? Es könnte auch sein, dass sich das Rändelrad auf der Achse durchdreht weil es zu locker angeschraubt ist.
Wo drückst du das Filament nach? Ich nehmen an vor dem Feeder, dann ist meine Vermutung mit dem Rändelrad sehr wahrscheinlich, denn wenn das Rad ordnungsgemäß fixiert ist und auch der Anpressdruck passt, dann sollte es dir nicht mehr möglich sein, mit der Hand Filament nachzuschieben.
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Thanks for the info, it seems it is different from printer to printer. I did the update today too, not via popup but normally via the maintenance menu and the first try failed. Nothing happened. After a reboot, a second try and then it worked.
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Download any STL file from thingiverse and try to load it into Cura, just to see if it is your workflow, your CAD software or something else with Cura. If the thingiverse STL works, then it has nothing to do with Cura and you can investigate further.
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Have you checked the knurled wheel in the feeder if it is still ok? Normally I would say yes, must be ok, if your filament is so grinded, but just the be sure. If the filament slips a little bit, you get under extrusion.
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Yes I am sure it is, don't worry. As far as I know, the firmware versions should be consolidated, that the UM3 can use the same version or most of it. Then it should be easier and faster to bring new firmware version for the UM3, because it is mainly the firmware of the S5.
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It is possible, i.e. printing with the wrong temperature, but I still think it is/was the filament. Maybe just some meters and the inner ones are ok now, but the wet filament has already slightly clogged your nozzle. That could be the reason for your under extrusion and you compensate it now with more flow.
Clean your nozzle if you have finished your current print and then I would change the spool to the new one and print out of the drybox directly for your long print job.
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5 hours ago, Croy9000 said:
But the idea of drawing in cool air (without actually drawing in outside air) did give me the idea to try a peltier cooling module like this one I just ordered https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-Thermoelectric-Refrigeration-Conduction-TEC1-12706/dp/B074V4RKXM/ref=sr_1_4. I think I can fit that into my air scrubber so the forced air through the scrubber passes over cooled heatsink fins. If that works well I will add some temp control.
You build a great high tech enclosure 🙂
But I like the idea, keep us informed if you have news.
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Thanks @nallath , I was not aware that it is already available. Great news!
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I am pretty sure it is wet filament. Nylon is VERY hygroscopic and printing without a drybox or something like that can be a pain. A few hours are enough to "destroy" the spool, so if you say it is out for about 2 weeks then it was too long out in humidity. So you should dry the spool for several hours on the heated bed or in an oven.
I guess that the filament on the outside of the spool is more wet. So you started your print, the piece in the bowden tube was dry and the first layer was ok. But then comes the wet filament and you heard the sizzling sound and got a bad layer. I cannot say why the restart helped, but I guess the wetness is not the same over the whole spool. Additionally, the wet filament could or has clogged your nozzle a little bit.
So, dry your spool, use a new one in the meantime, but do some hot/cold pulls first to get a clean nozzle. And consider to buy a drybox or build your own if you have nylon prints of several hours. Nylon is more hygroscopic than PVA and PVA is already a pain to use in higher humidity.
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Not yet...
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8 minutes ago, dsp said:
this could help this problem
Not really, because this would affect the whole object dimensions and not only the hole.
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I guess your object is not watertight. You can try to use an online repair service to repair your STL.
https://service.netfabb.com/login.php
You can also check if there is a problem with your STL when you check the x-ray view (dropdown with the solid view)
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Would be a nice feature, to have fewer materials in the list.
Or the ability to mark some materials as favorites and have them on the top of the list or in a separate favorites folder.
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Ich würde zur original Glasplatte greifen, auch wenn es "Glas" wahrscheinlich auch günstiger irgendwo gibt, aber du weiß nie ob das günstige Glas auch wirklich eben ist und das kann mehr Probleme bereiten als du dir ersparst.
Buildtak würde ich nicht nehmen, das kann zwar helfen wenn du ABS druckst, aber PLA geht dann schon sehr schwer wieder runter von der Buildtak Platte/Folie.
Ich bin ein Fan von Glas, darauf haftet mit diversen Hilfsmitteln wirklich alles und du bis flexibel. PLA etc. drucke ich mich einer dünnen Schicht Uhu Stick, für PETG verwende ich Dimafix oder 3DLac Spray und für ABS/ASA nehme ich die von dir genannten Adhesion Sheets. (aber wirklich nur dafür, denn ein PLA Teil bekommst du zerstörungsfrei nicht mehr runter von den Sheets)
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You should only use the top cover if you really need it (ABS or similar materials). If you print with PLA your prints will fail, due to too much heat inside.
Putting some ventilator in the case can help, but you should make sure, that also fresh air can get into the printer. There is thread here somewhere, where a user put the printer inside a cabinet and had a lot of problems at the beginning with too much heat. Then he put some ventilators to blow out the heat in the back, but it was still not enough because there was no way for fresh colder air to get in. I think finally he made also some holes in the front of the cabinet to get good airflow to bring the heat out of the cabinet.
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You can try to play with the setting "Slicing Tolerance" and set it to "exclusive".
But you will never get the diameter on your object as designed in CAD. Holes are always smaller than designed, so if you need accurate horizontal holes, you should design it slightly bigger or drill them out after printing.
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Can you import any other STL file not from Freecad?
Post your Freecad STL export here please.
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After restarting, do not update the printer firmware from the popup message or the icon in the corner. Ignore both if it comes up and do a manual update via the menu. In the previous firmware was a bug, that updating using the popup was not working. It seems the bug is still there.
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I never tried the shield, so I cannot give you any advice in this direction. But if you print with PLA/PVA you don't need the prime tower in my opinion or any other replacement for it. I don't print soo much with PVA, but never used a prime tower. @kmanstudios mentioned in another thread that he also doesn't use the prime tower anymore.
I guess a dual color PLA print with fine details, like text in another color, could be a reason to use a prime tower to get sharp edges of the text.
If you need a prime tower, then put the tower near to your object, not in the corner of the build plate, to keep the distance low between the tower and the object, to avoid stringing and also put a thin layer of glue on the place of the tower.
If you try the shield solution and you have a result, please let us know how it works.
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You can make the prime tower a bit wider with the setting "Prime Tower Size", with the downside, that you need also a little bit more material.
But you could also try if you really need a prime tower. For some objects, very fine dual prints, it can make sense and you will get better results with a prime tower, but for most dual prints, I rarely use a prime tower and get still decent results. And you have the advantage that you don't have the risk that the knocked off prime tower fails your print job.
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Try to set all speed settings (except travel) to the same value. As @gr5 mentioned, you will get better results if speed is the same.
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7 minutes ago, asb said:
or to use a static IP address, you are forced to use an undocumented development mode.
Wrong, the magic is called DHCP address reservation and it is a common practice in networks to assign a static IP address to a client, without setting a static IP address at the client. Every network administrator hates devices with configured static addresses because it is not manageable centrally. And DHCP address reservations are nothing special to professional routers or devices, even the cheapest one is able to do that.
So, if you really want, you can set a static IP for your printer without using SSH. If you do not want to follow the advice here, you can, of course, continue to complain about wrong issues.
13 minutes ago, asb said:having a sticker with the MAC address on the back
That's true and would be an improvement to have the MAC address on the back. But it is not a showstopper in most cases, only if your network is restricted on MAC addresses.
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Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences!
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Update your graphics driver or change it.
That you have also problems with bare windows dialogs shows that it is not a problem of Cura.
Firmware Update Issue - S5
in Firmware
Posted
I think it is always a good advise to restart the printer before the firmware upgrade, maybe then it works at the first try. On the other hand, nothing happens if it hangs at the first try and you restart it and try it again.