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Posts posted by Smithy

  1. Hallo
    ich habe mir etliche von den HSM952 Lock Lock Dosen zugelegt. Dort passt sehr genau eine Spule hinein und wird mit 1-2 Silica Gel Tütchen gelagert.


    Der Vorteil von den Dose ist, dass sie sehr platzsparend sind, weil kaum größer als die Spule selbst und jede Spule einzeln verpackt ist. Ausserdem sind diese Dose wirklich dicht.


    Nachteil, sie kosten rund EUR 11.- pro Stück. Aber da ich nur empfindliches Material darin lagere, hält sich das in Grenzen.




  2. Ich habe gute Erfahrungen mit Innofil, Colorfabb, FIllamentum und UM gemacht. Drucken alle gut und liefern sehr gute Ergebnisse.


    Von den ganz billigen Filmenden halte ich persönlich wenig, die machen mehr Probleme beim Drucken als du dir ersparst. 

  3. Olsson and Matchless are nearly the same - with both you can change the nozzle and the nozzle fits in both blocks. I heard that the Matchless is not really needed for UM2Go, not bad, but the features of this new block are not really needed in this machine. So I would look for a cheaper Olsson Block. And your preferred nozzles fits here and here.


    I printed some parts with Fillamentum Galaxy filament and this material in not abrasive, but yours is maybe different.


    Regarding heat bed, I suggest the 3DSolex heat bed. Works like a charm without problems.

  4. Du brauchst eine andere Düse, eine dünnere Bowden Tube, einen anderen PTFE Coupler und wahrscheinlich auch einen anderen Feeder bzw. musst du den vorhandenen modifizieren.


    Falls du nur ein paar alte Spulen hast, ist es glaube ich besser du verkaufst diese, da sich der Umbau sonst kaum auszahlen wird.

  5. I also noticed a huge increase of CPU usage when opening the camera, but it is in my opinion not related to Cura itself. Also when opening the URL directly in a browser window, my Safari browser gives a notice that this webpage consumes a lot of "energy" which means CPU.


    So there must be something strange (whatever) with this video stream webpage.


    I use now a workaround and open the stream url in VLC player, there it is working without an increase of CPU usage.

  6. The Olsson block is exactly what you need, there you can change the nozzles as you want and use different sizes and nozzles for abrasive materials like the everlast nozzle.


    You can also use the 3DSolex Matchless block, which comes also with changeable nozzles.

  7. Thanks and yes please give us some feedback after you have upgraded.


    I think I should contact Bondtech directly, what they say about the difference between the two kits. I searched the web and forums a lot, haven't found users which have the DDG and the QR, but was not able to find a descriptive difference. Also the Bondtech website don't tell much about the difference.


    But maybe someone else have more infos about it.....



  8. If I would plan to upgrade the feeders of my UM3, which one should I use?

    There are 2 Bondtech upgrade kits for the UM3 available, the DDG and the QR kit with the stepper motors. 


    Which kit makes more sense? Are the stepper motors much different than the stick UM motors? Does it make sense to change it?

    Or is the DDG enough to "upgrade" the UM3.


    I also have to say, I have currently no problems with the UM3 feeders, but just looking what could make sense to upgrade.



  9. I have printed last weekend some parts with ASA which should be very similar to ABS.

    Had also warping with just glue stick and used then the UM adhesion sheets. Works perfekt, no more warping at all.


    I used the default temperature settings for ABS on my UM3.

  10. 32 minutes ago, redslifer said:

    I want to only heat the bed for the first layer and then cool down since PLA doesn't need an heated bed. On 3.5.0 even setting this it won't cool down after the first layer.


    But it makes no sense to do that. If you don't want a heated bed with PLA, then you also don't want it for the first layer. I don't think the first layer will stick better to the glass if heated and then cooled down again. So in my opinion there is no difference between no heating at all or heating only for the first layer.


    But anyway, if it was working with 3.4.1. then there is another bug in 3.5.

  11. @starbuck You could improve the script and check if x and y is within a range to compensate small differences. But be careful you also need to manage that you already took a photo for this layer, because when using a range, your script will fire more than once. I would check also the z position and if you already shoot a photo for this z layer, then don't trigger again.

  12. 55 minutes ago, ultiarjan said:

    a "Wemo" networked powerplug so should anything go really wrong


    Thats a very good idea and I will do something similar to it. My problem is, that Cura Connect is a little bit buggy and hangs after a few print jobs. (only a "Reset Cura Connect" helps) And without Cura Connect you are not able to abort a print in case of "emergency".

  13. I do not recommend to do just a port forwarding, it is highly insecure and your printer is open for the world, therefore everyone could play with the API and watch your printer printing. Ok for API PUT requests you need additional authentication, but in my opinion it is not worth the risk that there is maybe a unknown bug/hole in your UM.


    Most consumer router can do VPN out of the box with minimal configuration and it is safer without the risk to invite all the script kiddies all over the world.

  14. I have sometimes the same problem, but immediately after putting the filament into the feeder. So my issue is that the feeder is maybe dirty and cannot grab and transport the filament forward into the Bowden tube.


    Your issue is nearly the same, the click sound comes from the feeder, trying to transport the filament forward but it cannot and the filament pushes back a little bit. You will also see that the filament is grinded when you unload it. 


    But you say, it will be forwarded through the Bowden tube to the nozzle. So then check if your Bowden tube is correctly mounted in the print head and check if your PTFE couple (the white thing with he spring) is deformed or looking bad. Maybe the filament pushes against this part and cannot be transported fully to the nozzle.

  15. Use the generic ABS profile in Cura and you are fine.

    If you choose the UM ABS Orange profile in Cura, the printer wants an ABS orange spool too, but for whatever reason it cannot detect it. So maybe your NFC is not working or the spool you have, has no NFC chip. Third option, NFC is working, spool has NFC chip but will also not detected because the serial number is not correctly added to the firmware. I have a black NFC UM spool which is not detected.


    As a general rule, if you have to select the material on the printer manually, use the generic profiles Cura. If your material is autodetected by the printer, then use the UM profiles. There is no difference between generic profiles and UM profiles, so don't worry.

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