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Everything posted by Smithy

  1. No, you don't miss something, it is normal. I also didn't see this information on the S5 and also not on the UM3. I guess the screenshots on the UM site are wrong or from some older versions.
  2. Have you enabled the Prime Tower in Cura? If not, give it a try and enable it, but position the tower manually nearer to your object. Per default, it is located in the back right corner and you should put it as near as possible to your object which avoids the stringing.
  3. Smithy

    ender 3 having HORRIBLE print's

    The Ender 3 has serious problems with his feeder, search Creality specific sites for more and deeper information. There are some community modifications available as far as I know. Additionally, check if everything is tight enough, check your Z screw, if it can move smoothly over the whole length. A friend of mine has an Ender 3, so I know there are a lot of problems, which needs some tinkering and where you need to make additional modifications. Best is to check the Creality related sites and forums for deeper information. And, personally I haven't tried the Amazon Basic filament, but I heard that it is also not the best choice. But this is not your problem now, just an additional hint if you have fixed your current issue(s) and then see still some problems in your prints.
  4. In Cura you can use the generic CPE material which is a kind of PETG. For PETG it is important to print slow and often it helps when you turn off the combing feature in Cura. ABS is not the best choice for outdoor because it is not resistant to UV light. ASA which is a kind of ABS is better for outdoor usage. PETG has similar properties as ABS also heat resistance if you choose CPE+ or ColorFabb HT material. It is not wrong to use ABS but due the toxic fumes and problems with layer bonding and adhesion it is nowadays not the first choice for such requirements.
  5. If the gear has a normal round hole without a flat part, then you have to position the set screw to this flat part. When tightened, the screw prevents the gear from spinning on the axis.
  6. Smithy

    UM2 Auto Power off? Nur wie?

    Ich weiß nicht ob sich das auszahlt, der Drucker braucht im Standby fast keinen Strom, Display & Beleuchtung kannst du sowieso ausschalten, somit wird dann eigentlich nur mehr das Board mit Strom versorgt. Und ob nun das UM2 Board oder ein Raspberry läuft macht dann auch keinen Unterschied mehr. Ich schalte meine Drucker so gut wie nie aus, die laufen einfach immer im Standby. Licht ist ausgeschaltet wenn er nicht druckt und gut ist es.
  7. Smithy

    Tough PLA bed adhesion

    Whenever you have time - thanks a lot!
  8. Smithy

    Tough PLA bed adhesion

    I struggle since some weeks with my Tough PLA prints, because they stick too well to the print bed on my S5. I never have seen such issues on the UM3, so I assume due to the better multi-point bed leveling on the S5, I simply get a better adhesion than on the UM3. However, I did some tests with different "helpers" and here are my results. Maybe it helps if someone has similar problems. How I did these tests? I printed the same object several times on my UM S5 with UM Tough PLA White, Cura 3.6 default settings for 0.15 layer height. After the print, I waited until the glass got room temperatures. A thick layer of glue (I just used the glue stick and painted the glass, 2 times) No problems during the print, no warping. The printed part came off easily with the help of a small spatula. A thin layer of glue (distributed with a wet tissue) Sticks very well on the glass, no warping at the corners. But sticks a little bit too well, so it was hard to get the object off the glass after the bed cooled down. Magigoo Stick It was hard to get the object off the glass, even with watering the part. Not recommended! Dimafix Spray No warping, but sticks to the glass like hell. No chance to get the object off after cooling down. Even with watering around the object and use of spatulas. Not recommended! Plain, proper cleaned glass The material sticks like hell on the glass, nearly no chance to get it off. I even damaged one small spatula and I had the luck that I haven't destroyed the glass itself. Not recommended! 3DLac Spray No warping, but sticks also too well and my glass chipped off a little bit when I have removed the part. This test wasn't really planned to do, but I forgot to clean the glass after printed some parts with ASA. But now we know also the behavior of 3DLac spray. Not recommended! Geerts salt method Not tried, but I guess it could be similar to just cleaned glass because the salt will not help to get less adhesion. But I want to try it sometime and will then update the list here with the results. The verdict I will do my future Tough PLA prints with a thick layer of glue. Maybe I should try Elmers wood glue mix or PVA slurry, could be easier to apply, than painting the glass with the glue stick. Basically, I can say you don't need any helpers for adhesion, but you definitely need something to get your part off again from the glass. The advantage of the glue is, that if it persistently will not come off the glass you can use some water around the part or even watering the whole glass until the glue gets soft enough. I haven't tried to put the glass into the freezer, which could also help.
  9. Smithy

    Cura (3.6.0) doesn't open 3mf file

    Thanks for the update!
  10. Thanks a lot for the update and I am glad to hear that your problem is solved now.
  11. Smithy

    Tough PLA bed adhesion

    That would be great, many thanks! But I think it makes only sense if you print the same part, but you can abort after 2-3 mm, then we know if it is the support structure or something else. HUE_Frame.stl Just use the normal 0.15 profile, and enable support. Thanks a lot!
  12. Smithy

    Tough PLA bed adhesion

    Very strange, a little difference ok, but the opposite? But on the UM3 I never had a problem, and everything comes off easily. But maybe it is the batch of the material. I should print the part also on the UM3 with the same spool to see what happens. For the S5 I currently have only one glass, but it had time for 7 hours to cool down, so that was not the issue. If I would have enough free space in the freezer, this would help probably, but no chance currently. But I could put the glass outside, it is getting colder here again.
  13. Smithy

    Tough PLA bed adhesion

    Good question! Maybe it has something to do with the model, I usually print with ToughPLA. Just 15mm high, so no possibilities to grab the part and the support structure on the bottom is maybe also not helpful. But the outer frame sticks so well to the glass, that it is impossible to get in with a spatula. So I always begin from the inner side with the spatula and try to lift it there.
  14. Smithy

    Very strange repeating pattern

    Ok, was irritated because it looks different. I had a model some months ago which had similar issues, but only this specific model and I never found the reason. Also sliced with Simplify3D had the same issues, so it was different from your issues here.
  15. Smithy

    Very strange repeating pattern

    It this the same model?
  16. Smithy

    S5: Vor Druckbettnivellierung tritt Filament aus

    Kübel drunter stellen 🙂
  17. Smithy

    S5: Vor Druckbettnivellierung tritt Filament aus

    Passiert das immer nachdem du das Filament geladen hast oder auch wenn es bereits geladen ist? Und wie sieht das aus wenn du TPU ladest und dann wartest bist vorne was rauskommt. Danach bestätigst du ja, dass neues Filament herausgekommen ist. Kommt dann nachdem du Bestätigst auch noch weiteres Material nach? Versuche das auch einmal aus. Kannst ja Entladen und neu laden damit du das siehst. Und beim Laden achte ich immer darauf, dass wenn ich das Filament hinten unten in den Feeder stecke, ich vorne bestätige sobald das Filament oben aus dem Feeder rauskommt und in die Bowden Tube wandert. Wenn du zu lange wartest, könnte es sein, dass das Filament mit zu viel Druck vorne an die Düse angedrückt wird und dann rinnt es raus, auch wenn der Drucker einen Retract macht. Gerade bei TPU könnte ich mir das schon so vorstellen.
  18. Smithy

    PVA mess

    Ok, if you have a 1kg spool than it is not UM PVA. Other brands are cheaper, so it is possible that Breakaway is more expensive than your PVA. But anyway, Breakaway is great, I like it.
  19. Smithy

    Tough PLA Adhesive

    I glued yesterday some CPE+ (PETG) with the Revell Contacta without problems. I like this glue because you have time to align the parts. I know not the answer for ToughPLA, but I am sure it works also with ToughPLA.
  20. Smithy

    PVA mess

    Breakaway Support is good, but not possible for all objects. But PVA is much more expensive than BreakAway. Here in Europe, a spool of UM PVA 705g costs 100€ and BreakAway is about 65€.- The PVA spools which cost only 50€, have only 350g, so be careful 🙂 There are also possibilities, to mix PLA and Breakaway for support to save costs. So you can print the Support with PLA and only the support roof with the other extruder with Breakaway loaded.
  21. Smithy

    S5: Vor Druckbettnivellierung tritt Filament aus

    Kannst du auch nicht, das wird komplett über die Firmware gesteuert und ist in keinem Gcode drinnen. Passiert dir das auch mit PLA oder nur mit TPU? Versuche einmal einen anderen Printcore, sind eh 2 AA 0.4 dabei ob das dort auch der Fall ist.
  22. It is a dual color print, so have enabled the prime tower? Cannot see it. I guess it is the standby nozzle which oozes a little bit. Another idea is to turn off combing, I had similar issues with PETG and a similar object like yours and turning off combing helped. Not completely but it was a way better.
  23. I also think that you have somewhere a problem, and this is not the extruder. So check carefully the advice from conny_g, otherwise, it will not help if you replace the gear, it will again wear out.
  24. Smithy

    S5: Vor Druckbettnivellierung tritt Filament aus

    Mit TPU kann ich mir das noch vorstellen, da das Material recht flexibel ist, funktioniert vielleicht der Retract nicht richtig und du hast noch Material in der Düse. Persönlich hätte ich das aber auch noch nicht beobachtet, allerdings drucke ich TPU immer am UM3. Mit PLA und anderen Materialen sollte das aber nicht passieren.
  25. You shouldn't heat your bed up to 300° 🙂

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