Smithy
-
Posts
5,666 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
147
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by Smithy
-
-
It is hard to say way, but you should check every few months if your screws are all tight enough. Additionally, check play on the axles as described in the UM maintenance guide. Could be from some extreme vibrations which could occur when printing small infill areas along a wall or something like that. Sometimes I think my printer will fly away when printing such things and when is that case the screws are a little bit loose they could easily get looser.
The fan door is problematic but can be fixed with bending back. There are also some clamps on Youmagine to hold the door stable in place.
BTW you should change your silicon nozzle cover!
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52502-check-the-quality-of-the-silicone-nozzle-cover
-
1
-
-
Is it possible that the brass you found was from the nozzel? I mean that due the unscrew of the nozzle some brass came off?
UM uses a very high torque for the nozzle and it is not made to take the nozzle off. So the chance is normally very high that you damage your print core if doing so or that the core will leak after putting everything together due to less torque.
-
I think it is not software related or not related to Cura. Do you use Cura or something else? Have you made a cross-check with another slicer, just to be sure?
If it is hardware or firmware related it will be hard because most people here have Ultimaker printers and the knowledge with other printers are limited. But maybe someone else has an idea what you could check.
-
1 hour ago, nasosan said:
i cannot modify the parameters.. i can only see the original..
Yes, because it is not possible.
-
1 hour ago, kulfuerst said:
I am not the first one to discover this issue btw. A google search yields many entries in forums of people having the same issue, but no solution anywhere. I find it surprising that this somewhat common issue appears to be so difficult to find a solution to...
And is it spread among different printer types or can it be narrowed to a specific type?
I never had such an issue, that's why I am asking for.
-
I will try to answer some of your questions:
45 minutes ago, joestefano said:Can you somehow send G Code commands directly to the S5? Not while printing.
Yes this is possible via SSH connection (you have to turn on the developer mode first) and then login and send gcodes with a command line tool. I haven't used it myself yet, so I just know it is possible, for details you have search the forum here, there are some other posts where you can find the excact name of the command line tool.
47 minutes ago, joestefano said:What G code is for auto leveling?
I am not sure if you can trigger auto leveling manually, because as far as I know the printer handles the leveling and not a gcode command. But maybe there is also a gcode for it, I don't know.
49 minutes ago, joestefano said:What is the difference between a AA core and a BB core, they look the same.
Only from outside. The BB core has a different inner shape which is needed for PVA that the material will not clog the nozzle. I have seen somewhere a cross section picture, but could not find it yet.
51 minutes ago, joestefano said:Has any designed a holder for extra cores?
There are a lot of print core holders on Youmagine and Thinigverse. But not all of them are really working. I printed some, but they all have a very tight fit and I decided to not press fit my print core into the holder 🙂 But check the simpler ones, they fit better.
-
Sorry my failure, I meant support structure, not infill.
Anyway, have you checked your retract settings? Maybe the retract is too long for your printer. I don't know the Anycubic, but I guess it is a direct extruder, right?
I think the problem is, that when your printer retracts and then should forward the material again, that he don't forward it enough. Then you get the underextrusion until the filament is at the nozzle again. Check also the tension of the feeder gear and the gear itself, maybe the filament slips a little bit.
-
5 hours ago, kmanstudios said:
My other UM3E and S5 do not have this wiggle.
I checked now my UM3 and the S5 and cannot see this issue too.
But I am sure @fbrc8-erin has a solution, as always! 🙂
-
Normally Infill is printed faster than walls, so I guess your printer has problems with extruding the needed amount of filament which is needed. So try to print slower, set the speed for infill, walls, etc. all to the same slow value and set it slow like 30mm/sec and check if it is better.
-
Maybe the wrong gcode flavor for your printer?
I can only be something that the gcodes generated by Cura are not compatible with your printer.
-
The printer should detect the UM ToughPLA spool itself when loading the material. You only have to confirm when the printer has detected the material.
Otherwise, if it could not be detected, due NFC is not working or the spool itself isn't registered (which I have with one spool) then choose ToughPLA and not PLA from the selection.
The message is just a warning, because you selected in Cura ToughPLA but at the printer you said just PLA, so the printer things you have to change the material to the right one.
-
Strange, I can check it on my UM3 but it is busy at the moment...
-
There is no way currently to set up a fixed IP address on the printer itself. A common way is to make a static DHCP IP address reservation on your router or DHCP server (depends on your infrastructure) So every time the printer asks for an IP address, he will get the same reserved IP.
-
Have tried to use a brim instead of a raft?
I don't think it has something to do with all your settings like infill, shell speed and so on. You have to make sure that the object sticks well to the bed and you said it is hollow you will only have some very fine thin parts which has contact the the bed, right?
Also check your bed, if it is leveled and if it is plain. If it is not plain you could have the problem, that the nozzle bumps off the object when hitting it hard.
-
5 minutes ago, ahoeben said:
Perhaps I'll have time one of these days to finally implement that.
Days are getting darker and colder, so what could be better than a relaxed coding session in a warm area. You will feel better and better with every code line 🙂
Joking aside, wow that would be great!
-
I don't know Hytrel, but these flexible materials are the only ones I know, that could help to be moisture proof. Waterproof is another requirement and they will not, because they are too hard, that's right.
I think it hardly depends on your model and what you want. Can you give an example what you want to do?
-
1
-
-
As far as I know it is not possible to modify the gcode file with Cura setting. You can only load it and print it, but you cannot modify further setting in Cura. If you have the STL then it is better to save it as a project file, so are able to modify anything later.
-
1
-
-
Beside you issues with the print head, these are fantastic prints, looks amazing!
-
You could try some of the flexible materials, like TPU95A from UM or Ninaflex which is much more flexible.
-
1
-
-
You should upload your Cura project, then we can see more, your settings and how the model looks like.
Normally you should be able to print without a raft, I assume you print with PLA? The Ender has a black build plate, looks like a BuildTak, is that right? Do you heat your bed to 50-60° for PLA?
-
Normally you get a lot of problems if the front fan is not working. The fan cools the upper part of the print head and the fan start automatically if the print core temperature is higher than 40° or 45°. Usually some plastic blocks the fan if it is not working, so check again if there is anything around the fan.
-
1
-
-
Wow, great news! Thanks nallath!
-
Die kurzen Riemen zu den Stepper Motoren kannst du spannen indem du die 4 Schrauben vom Motor leicht löst und dann den Motor nach unten drückst und dann wieder festschraubst.
Die längeren Riemen brauchst du nicht spannen bzw. kannst du so nicht spannen, aber wenn du ein Pulley löst dann sollte sich der Riemen wieder "einrenken". Denn momentan wird er oben stärker gespannt sein als unten.
Aber zieh die Aktion einfach einmal durch, dann sollte das alles wieder passen.
-
Line Width is one part and then you have to say how thick you want your wall or how many walls you want. There are 2 parameters in Cura, Wall Thickness and Wall Count. You can set the one or the other setting, depending if you prefer to set how many walls or the thickness.
So if you want to have 1.05mm walls you should have this wall thickness in your model as well. Then set wall count to 3 and with a line width of 0.35 you get 3 walls.
Control the Blob?
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Just an idea, but if you use some kind of glue for bed adhesion you could check if you have the glue also in the corner where the blob will be placed. Maybe the blob sticks then better to the glass and will not be carried away with the print head.