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Smithy

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Posts posted by Smithy

  1. Ok, dann mal langsam, du sagst nein du hast nichts gemacht und dann im selben Satz kommt, Olsson Block und Heizpatrone. Es wär schon wichtig, dass du bei den Tatsachen bleibst und einfach erzählst was du wann gemacht hast. Es reißt Dir keiner den Kopf ab, ist ja dein Drucker, aber wenn du Hilfe haben möchtest, dann wären solche Infos ganz brauchbar.

     

    Also noch einmal, zwischen dem letzten erfolgreichen Druck und jetzt, was hast du alles genau gemacht?

  2. Hast du den Drucker neu oder gebraucht gekauft? 

    Weil das erste war das Netzteil was defekt war und jetzt hat du das nächste Problem. Aber da du schreibst Olsson Block, dann war er gebraucht weil der vom Werk aus keinen hat. 

     

    Hast du schon gedruckt mit dem Drucker seit du ihn hast?

  3. Not an easy decision, but I am happy with both. I have a UM3 and bought later the S5. Both printers are great, but compared with the S5, the UM3 looks now old school. The touch display and the overall look and feel with the glass doors is different. 

     

    Both printers have similar features and possibilities, except the ones you already mentioned. The filament sensor is not only useful when running out of filament, but also helps when the filament gets stuck for some reasons.

     

    For me, the main reason to buy the S5 was the build volume. Compared with the UM3 it is huge. (I have the normal UM3, not the extended) And with the bigger build volume, you have much more possibilities.

     

    Regarding speed you are right, both are not sprinters, but they print reliable and beautiful. In the beginning, I was a little bit disappointed that the speed is not so good, but now I don't care anymore if it takes a little bit longer, it is more important that I get reproducible results.

     

    I would buy the S5 again, it is a great work machine, and the price difference between UM3 Extended and S5 is not that big. But yes if you compare it with the normal UM3 and don't need the additional features from the S5 then the UM3 could be the better choice for you. But also keep in mind that new things, like the CC core or maybe some add-ons for the Ultibus, will only come for the S5. So I think the S5 is much more future proof than the UM3.

  4. I cannot see it exactly, but it looks like that the connector is just broken off and the rest is intact. So if you can find someone with some soldering experience it should be easy to solder the connector again to the heat bed.

     

    Otherwise, you should get the heated bed as a spare part at every Ultimaker reseller.

  5. I have the feeling it is correct, but maybe I am wrong 🙂 

     

    Maybe you misunderstood the part with "select UM profile in Cura" ? So spool was automatically detected by the printer and then you have to select manually the UM profile OR click on the upper right corner to read and get the information from the printer in Cura.

     

    But let me know if I am wrong in my thinking, it is often so when working on a description that someone else has a different understanding.

    • Like 1
  6. 4 minutes ago, SandervG said:

    I think here you mean to say: 'If you have loaded UM material which wasn't automatically detected by the printer'?

     

    No, I mean if you load UM material which is normally automatically detected, then you have to select a UM profile in Cura.

     

    And thanks @SandervG for the additional information about the sync and the backup!

  7. It is often not so clear how to use 3rd party materials with the UM3 or S5 printers. So I want to give some hints and answers to the common problems and questions.

     

    Ultimaker materials

    Ultimaker materials come with an NFC tag in the spool and the printer is able to read the NFC tag and can detect the material and color during the loading process. Internally the NFC tag contains a unique ID which is then matched against a material database or something like that in the printer software.

    So if you have loaded UM material which was automatically detected by the printer, then you just have to select the UM material profile in Cura or read the configuration directly from the printer by clicking on the printer at the top right corner in Cura and you are perfectly prepared for printing.

     

    The printer cannot detect the Ultimaker material

    If you have the very rare case that your UM spool cannot be detected by the printer (I have one Black PLA with that problem) then it could be that the NFC reader is not working correctly or that just the ID of the spool is not in the database. In such a case, you have to handle the spool like any other 3rd party material.

     

    3rd party materials

    If you load 3rd party material, the NFC tag cannot be detected and therefore you will be asked which material you want to load. The list shows all the preconfigured materials that are supported by the printer.  For example, you want to load a ColorFabb PLA material, then you should choose PLA from the list and the material will be loaded. In Cura you should select in that case the generic PLA profile otherwise, you will get a warning message that your loaded material in the printer doesn't match with the material you have configured in Cura. You can override this message but it can be avoided by choosing the correct profile.

     

    What if you place your Ultimaker PVA material in a Drybox or something like that?
    Then you have to handle the UM PVA as a 3rd party one. The UM profiles and the generic one are identical, so there is no difference except that you will always get a warning message if you choose a UM profile in Cura and have a material loaded which was not detected automatically by the printer.

     

    So as a general rule, if the material was detected by the printer, use Ultimaker profiles, otherwise use the generic ones.

     

    Different material types

    With PLA it is easy because the generic profile is named PLA and your 3rd party material normally also. But what if you buy ColorFabb XT, HT, ngen or some other PETG material and you cannot find it in the material list on the printer? 
    In that case, you have to know that these materials are all of some kind of copolyester and Ultimaker CPE and CPE+ are also copolyester materials. So you just have to choose a material from the list which is similar to the material you want to load. It is enough when you look for the print temperature because this is the only information the printer needs to know to load the material. (heat up the nozzle to extrude some material) It doesn't matter if you choose CPE+ or Nylon or whatever for your 3rd party material if the print temperature is nearly the same. But in Cura you have to take care, that you choose the corresponding generic profile for your print job. Again, if you have selected Nylon on the printer and then use the generic CPE profile you will get the warning message.

     

    How to add your own material profiles in Cura?
    The best start is to duplicate a generic profile and then modify the settings you want. There is one setting which is important and this is called "Material Type". This field must match the name of the material you choose when loading the material on the printer. Otherwise, you will get again a warning message that the materials don't match.

    1683453306_Bildschirmfoto2018-11-30um09_50_15.thumb.png.aa024bcfffa9d34906d50b1d306d5426.png

     

    For example, you want to create a custom profile for ColorFabb XT. We know that XT is very similar to Ulitmakers CPE and therefore we duplicate the generic CPE profile. You can choose anything you want for "Display Name" and "Brand" but not for "Material Type", this should show "CPE". When you now load your XT in the printer, choose CPE from the list when you are asked for the material and in Cura you choose your custom ColorFabb XT profile which matches with the material type of the printer.

    36539063_Bildschirmfoto2018-11-30um11_14_54.thumb.png.ae5a1607d34bc6ac4d36206ff0e863c9.png

     

    It is also important, that you duplicate the generic profile you want to use during loading. So duplicating the generic PLA profile for using with CPE will also throw an error (warning message) because your new custom profile got the GUID from PLA and not CPE. So be carful when creating custom profiles.

     

    The future?

    With the new marketplace materials, there is a new possibility to download specific predefined profiles and I heard that there will also be the possibility to "upload" such profiles to the printer. So with an upcoming firmware, it should be possible to get the material type of such a profile in the material list of the printer. I don't know if this will work also with your own custom profiles, but we will see.

     

    I hope I have covered the most common issues and questions, if something is missing or not correct, please let me know that I can edit and correct this post.

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 1
  8. Nearly unbelievable that you have printed without supports, but the result shows that it is possible. Great and it is again the gyroid infill shining through right?

     

    You will see, you will open somedays a kmangallery to show all your objects to the public 🙂 

    • Thanks 1
  9. Die Cura Connect Gruppe hat auch nichts mit der IP Adresse, LAN oder WLAN zu tun, das ist eine Funktion in Cura Connect. Du kannst wenn du mehrere Drucker hast dies entweder getrennt ansteuern oder du machst einen Drucker zum Gruppen Host und schickst dann alle Aufträge dort hin. Der Host übernimmt dann die Aufteilung auf die Drucker die gerade Idle sind und das entsprechende Material geladen haben.

  10. Hallo und willkommen hier im Forum,

     

    Mach dir keine großen Gedanken, es ist etwas zu viel geschmiert worden, wisch hin und wieder drüber und dann gibt sich das. Es ist auf jeden Fall nicht das Lager welches undicht wäre und dort irgendwas ausläuft. 

     

    Und besser zuviel geschmiert als staub trocken.

  11. The Ender 3 is known to have warped beds, but if it is not too much it should work anyway.

     

    Too low temperature causes under extrusion because not enough material will be extruded. so raise the temperature again to 195 or 200 and try again. You have to find your optimal settings for temperature, layer height and print speed. Changing one of these parameters directly reflects the amount of extruded material.  But normally with not extreme print settings, the default values work quite well.

     

    I assume all other settings are the default settings, so you haven't changed line width or something like that, which could cause a similar picture.

     

     

  12. Ja das tut er aber das ist auch gut so, denn damit stellt er sicher, dass die Düse wirklich druckbereit ist wenn er mit deinem Objekt anfängt. Aber ja es passiert manchmal, dass das Material mitgezogen wird, daher beim Starten einfach Babysitten und ggf. das Material halten.

     

    3 minutes ago, Birk said:

    soll ich den ultimaker weiter mit ultimaker im cura laufen lassen ? Is das bessere zum drucken mit dem ultimaker ?

    Es ist einfacher weil du z.B: keinen Start End Code eingeben musst und du die Materialauswahl gleich beim Laden am Drucker einstellst. Ich sehe sonst keine Vorteile durch einen Wechsel, weil der Ulti Gcode nix anderes als Marlin mit ein paar Erweiterungen im Header ist. 

     

    Wenn du einmal mit Octoprint oder so drucken möchtest, dann musst du eh umstellen, aber nur aus Spaß oder weil der China Drucker vom Nachbarn auch Marlin verwendet, würde ich persönlich nicht tun. Du tritts dir max. ein paar Probleme mehr ein, die du vorher nicht hattest für etwas was dir keinen wesetlichen Vorteil bringt.

  13. I never checked it in that way you did, but I also never had issues with the auto leveling that a print failed due that. UM3 printer can have glass plates that are not really flat, you can check it with a ruler or something like that if your glass is really flat.

     

    I am not sure if the leveling process of the S5 will come some days with new firmware also to the UM3, there you have several measurement points over the whole print bed, but normally it works well. On the UM3 you could also disable auto leveling and level the bed manually, this is something which not possible anymore on the S5.

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