Carla_Birch
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Posts posted by Carla_Birch
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Mines a GT Sonic 9L (You can not fill it with 9L, most ultra sonic cleaners don't hold what they say so not sure how they work it out), but a lot of them are basically the same machine but with a diff name put on them. The fact IPA can go up in flames and your placing it in a machine that for most is metal and as all electrics under it to me is a risk of a short/spark setting the IPA off and i think thats why some place it in a plastic tub or in a bag and place it in the cleaner with water in.
Like i say i personally use water washable resins as its just saver and even know the resin costs a little more you remove the cost of getting IPA so kinda levels itself out but removes a risk of fire.
I personally after a printers done, spin the build plate around so its upright and let resin dip off into the vat for a bit. Then its into the ultra sonic cleaner to get all the thick off . Then i got a anycubic wash and cure, so i give it a final wash in clean water in that. then let it air dry because cure.
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I have a few resin printers, i don't personally change my resin out after a print. Long as the last print printed fine you have no need to filter it out, just a quick look by using a plastic scraper for any bits and you fine.
Most resins can be kept in the vat for weeks also some might just need a bit of a mix with the plastic scraper as some do split a little.
One of the biggest things that can effect resin printing from print to print is the temperature of the resin, so if you got the printer is a cold zone or store the resin in one then warm it up a little first. This is also why its a good idea to try not to top the vat up mid print as the resin warms up in the printer due to heat from being cured and if you tip fresh resin in mid print whats colder you can get a line across the print.
Personally a ultra sonic cleaner is a handy machine to have with resin printers, i personally use water washable resin what means its totally safe to use. If using IPA then make sure its not a heated cleaner and also its better to put the IPA in a plastic tub with water in the ultra sonic cleaner as its just safer. All look to invest in a wash and cure machine.
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Hi
That sounds like you have bricked up the printer, @gr5 is likely to know how to recover it, normally the main controlboard as a sd card on it you can take out and load onto a computer and you will need to copy the files back to it, so hopefully gr5 will be able to tell you the steps for this and point you to the files.
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Hi,
I not 100% sure but i don't think it is possible to print with different layer heights between nozzle, because you risk the nozzle printing with the lower height hitting the printed path of the other nozzle due to the fact its higher than the path being printed.
If you wishing to speed up the printing with the other nozzle you can use different nozzle sizes so that the paths print quicker.
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In Cura, go to "Preferences" - "Printers" and select "Machine Settings" for your ender 3 profile and check that "Origin at center" is not ticked.
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1 hour ago, Niels_Amstel_Engineering said:
I have a strange problem with warping. Ever since we have an air manager on our S5 warping on the parts seems to have increased. See this image of a badly warped part.
This was printed in using 'fine' settings with 'Jupiter' PLA with the heat bed temp on 65 C and the fan speed to 50%. As an adhesive I used hair spray.
Any other things I should defintely try?
Thanks in advance!
From the image it looks like its not warped up off the build plate, is that right? But it looks like its caved in on the corners, if that's what you mean thats because the layers below are to hot still so can not support the weight above.
For PLA you really want the fan's on 100% to cool the filament as its placed down as its got a low melting point it needs to be cooled fast so it can support its own weight. The bed temp is also a little high, so if the prints not coming free from the glass then i would personally drop that down to 50c.
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No problem, happy it worked and thanks for posting the windows path incase anyone else as same problem.
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Not sure the path root for it on windows, but on Mac you can remove the png image from the install folder of Cura whats in "Contents" - "Resources" - "Resources" - "Images" and remove "anycubic-chiron.png".
Besure to restart Cura after and the image will be gone 🙂
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It's no problem, happy to help 🙂
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Using 1.75mm on a stock Ultimaker is not a good idea because it's design for 2.85mm so the likes of the feeder is designed for a bigger filament so i'm not sure how well it will grip 1.75mm. Then like smithy points out its the hotend and bowden that all designed to use 2.85mm.
But to edit the filament size in Cura, you go to cura - preferences - materials and you need to edit the diameter of the material (note you can not edit default ones so you need to create one.
Another setting you might have to edit is the printer settings for the extruder to say its 1.75mm, i have never tired it and i'm not sure how good a idea it is to use 1.75mm on a stock 2.85mm machine.
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Big congratulations, i personally use the side bar GUI and the material settings plug in's the material settings one being very handly when you use a mix of brands for filament.
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Hi,
that preview looks normal, on the right side of the screen is a bar you need to drag the top of that bar down to view the lower layers as right now you are viewing the last layer (layer 349) so that is where the preview play button will play from. As you drag the right side bar down from the top you will see the layers below and can preview them.
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With PLA you want to start off at 195c nozzle and a bed temp of 50-60c. If its PLA+ you want to start nozzle temp at 210c. Work way up 5c at a time to see how each temp prints. Also make sure you cleaned your nozzle after using PETG so nones left in side.
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Aww right, i don't think you can "undo" any edits to that when you save, I'm guessing it's a custom profile you have saved, because for the default profiles for me anyway the save is always grey out so you can not overright the default profiles.
Do you have any cura backup's saved you can roll back to?
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16 minutes ago, Link said:
agree, yes, you get this until you hit save, once you do that it gets locked into that profile, and i cannot see a way to undo it 😞
I'm not sure where you are/have hit "save" because the only "save" i get it to save a project
Or did you mean this part?
Because if you mean that, then it's in the general preferences for cura under the dropdown for profiles.
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Normally when you edit a setting it goes italic and you will see a arrow just infront of the imput box for the settings value, even if you pick to keep settings when you charge material profiles.
Do you see this arrow like this?
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1 hour ago, quad121 said:
Hi, sorry.
the material is PLA Matte from Filamentive.
the printer is a Creality Ender 5 Pro with a SKR 1.4 turbo motherboard
printing temp is 210 at 60.
the hotend is a E3D V6 using standard brass 0.4mm nozzle
retraction is at 3.8 with speed set at 60
Not got first hand on a Ender but the retraction settings might be to fast and to short. Try 6mm at 25mm/s, if you have retraction set to fast you can make a delay in the start of the filament flow again after a retraction and that might be why you are getting all the gaps in the print.
Also the temp for normal PLA seems a little high, try 195c and bump it up 5c at a time.
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First things first make sure you are not trying to heat up both the build plate and your hot end at the same time to start a print. Most printers don’t have the power for that and that’s why they heat up the build plate first and then the hot end before the print starts. That way less power is used at once.
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Hi,
The heated bed goes under the glass, so you will need to remove the glass. Put the heated build plate in and wire it up and then install the glass back on top of it. Warming the glass up will greatly help many filament types to stick better, but still use a glue also because it protects the glass also and helps prints to be removed easy when the glass and print cools back down.
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2 hours ago, GregValiant said:
This is the kind of thing where some support from Creality would be appreciated. I installed a 1.1.5 silent board in my Pro and I think that one does come with a bootloader (whatever that is!).
A bootloader is basically a bit of software code that’s saved to the control board memory that loads up every time you power up, without this the printer will load up but does not have any code to be able to understand the request to update firmware via the USB.So it’s very likely that needs to be installed for them to be able to update via USB, but like I say it’s something where you really want to follow a good step by step and only do it if your sure you can do it right.
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20 hours ago, breezy2u said:
I have the ender 3 pro and I am trying to upgrade the firmware. I have installed Cura and added the printer, but when I try to select the upgrade firmware button it says it is not connected to the printer. I've tried activating the printer, but nothing seems to happen.
Help?
My understanding with the Ender 3 and likely the Pro also, is that it does not come with an bootloader pre-installed what is needed to be able to update the firmware via USB.
So to be able to upgrade via USB you will need to flash a bootloader to the main controlboard of the printer. For this i would say it's best to check for step by step guides because you could brick the printer if you make a wrong step, you also have to have an Arduino and wire it up to the printers control board and then link the Arduino to a PC to be able to flash the bootloader to the printer.
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The gcode seems to all be right, having loaded it into http://gcode.ws/ to check it, its showing all the layers as normal. Even loading it into Cura is showing it all fine.
Have you tired to slice and print another file thats not from the same stl to see if the same error happens?
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Hi,
Why this might not give you the hours on the printer itself because you can swap print cores, you can see the hours the print cores have been in use for what might give you a good idea.
To do this from the touch screen on the printer pick: settings - about this printer and it will show the hours on the print cores like this
As for the layers shifting itself, it’s best to clean all the rods and make sure you got no play on them and then add a fresh drop of oil on them and move the print head around by hand to spread the oil over them, this also lets you feel if you can feel the print head getting tight as any point.
With you saying the prints moved forward I would also check the glass is tight in the clips so it’s not easy to move when in place.
Can not comment on the heat because I don’t know what filament you are running and at what temps and for how long, So that information would be handy, but unless your printing real hot and the printer is enclosed I can not see it being a problem. But it’s a good idea to post the filament type along with the settings you have used.
But I would personally check everything is oiled and moving free and the belts are tight.
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7 hours ago, Bah454 said:
Hello Burtoogle, Happy 4th of July!
Wonder if you can offer me some more advice.
I keep getting an error when I downloaded Cura 4.6.1 pic included. That is causing some issues I think with printing.
Issue-
I must print my part using the standard Brim. However when I do that the part wont stick to the plate. I've printed many of these and never had this issue. This is a brand new printer, same model I used b-4 Monoprice V2 mini with no Brim Issues. I looks like to me that there isn't enough filament coming out on Brim mode. Is this adjustable, does it need to be adjusted. It shows 100%
But, when I switch to Raft it sticks no problem. Raft is not a strong enough hold for this part. I really need to fugue out what is causing this. Is it the error I keep getting when I down load Cura, Is it a setting that I am missing?
Any help is appreciated.
I would personally reset Cura so it's all back to default settings, if you still get a problem with brims not sticking it could be that the print cores/feeders need to be cleaned.
Because you might not be getting the full filament flow, what means the filament don't get pushed down to the glass as much.
Resin printing.
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
It goes by what you plan on printing really with the resin printer to what you need, eg if you only going print small mini's and rings and that then that would be fine, but if its more stuff that takes up most the build size you will need something bigger to be able to fully fit the parts in.
This is a little something im working on right now, still got to clean up the joins.