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Carla_Birch

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Posts posted by Carla_Birch

  1.  

    That's my UPS running with my S5 right now, if i recall it's 540 watts it can cope with and was 900va. I get a peak of 507 watts.

     

    Another plus is some plug into computer with USB and you can see just how much power you are using a hour/day what can help you with pricing running costs if you sell anything you print.

  2. 1 hour ago, donogh said:

    Thank you for the detailed reply Carla, much appreciated. I'll check out UPSs in that case. The S3 uses 350W, will probably go with 1000va anyway!

    Just keep in mind that va and watts is not the same thing, You need a UPS that can cope with the peak watt usage of the printer but i would defo also get one with a high va as that gives you more time that hopefully your power will come back on from.

     

    What would be real nice is if one day a printer could work like a computer and when you plug the usb of the UPS into the printer, any power cut also put the print into pause mode.

  3. Nope, it don’t support resume after lose of power.
     

    A good UPS is the best way forward, if you lose power you need to pause the print ASAP so that the power usage is much lower or else your UPS will not last long.

     

    The problem with a memory based resume feature is if the printer is to lose power that means your heated bed will cool and prints can become free, power comes back on and printer restarts and you end up with a big mess and a failed print. With a UPS you pause ASAP what keeps just the heated bed going and keeps the print fixed to the build plate, also gives you more back up time as power usage is lower when you pause, then you got to hope you get power back before the UPS runs out.

     

    A good UPS also protects the printer from any power dips or spikes that could damage it and can also crash a printer where a resume feature would not work if a power dip/spike happens to crash a printer.

     

    Not sure on the S3 power usage but with the S5 you want a UPS that does over 500 watts because when running it hits near on 500 watts at times. You would also want around 1000 va because that gives you a number of minutes on a power cut with the printer running to get to it and pause it.

    • Like 1
  4. Nope happens on both my S5's, they got lost for a min or so then come back, then bit later it happens again. It's a pain but at lest they come back by selfs after a min. It seems to have always happened from launch of the printer for me. Both ethernet linked also.

  5. Keep in mind that with FDM printing you are melting a plastic, this will change in size due to heat and cooling and different brands of filament will change more or less then others going by how good the filament is, then swap the type of filament and you got the same problem but even bigger.

     

    The size of the parts can also play a part due to more or less heat, so i really don't think you will get a FDM printed part down to perfect or even within a 0.01 range. Even resin MSLA printing as the same problem of parts that shrink due to heat. 

  6. The part looks small, so it be doing a lot of short movements at that point and the layers below might not be getting time to cool down right, in Cura you got a setting for min layer time, make this higher and the printer will stop after a layer till the min time in sec is hit that you set, this will give time for the layers below to cool and can help.

  7. 1 hour ago, robobartz said:

    REQUEST TO ULTIMAKER: Please, if you can, include the specific spool# of this error  in your error message in your next firmware update(if it can interface w/hardware that way). 

     

    Really don't think that's needed. The error will always be for the core that was active at the time of the error is given.

     

    So whatever core is lowest it the core thats given the error, in other words if core 2 is in the down placement than its that core, if core 2 is in the up placement then its core 1.

  8. This is how i have mine done, i drilled the holes out in the box with a step drill and added some real fixings to it as i found the PTFE would move and start to wrap around the spool in the box.

     

    Only other thing I'm doing, is I'm going add a PVC tube that clips into the box lid also as again i found with PVA filament it ends up pulling the spool off the rollers, so making some bits to fix in the lid so it keeps the spools in place.

     

    IMG_1391.thumb.JPG.8bc235b301ddcf5a2032b4ed83137b12.JPG.  IMG_1393.thumb.JPG.fed783de50e828e7c7a2b5056f401db0.JPG

     

    2033342077_Screenshot2020-05-15at12_21_45.thumb.png.4ad57bb619f44805f12e47704c466b34.png

    • Like 2
  9. Quote

    Why did Ultimaker release a different version of the Ultimaker S5?

    Firstly, the new version of the Ultimaker S5 includes the branding updates to align this printer with the other products in the S-line, such as the Ultimaker S3 and the Ultimaker S5 Material Station. 

    Next, the changes made under the cover of the Ultimaker S5 improve the electromagnetic compatibility of the printer and help ensure that the new version of the Ultimaker S5 is Class B compliant.

    Lastly, the 2018 version of the Ultimaker S5 conforms to safety standard IEC 60950-1 and the new version to IEC 62368-1. The standard IEC 62368-1 is mandatory per December 2020.

     

    • Like 3
  10. CC 0.6 core would be better for any filament that as a fill in it, not only would the copper wear the AA core fast, you also higher the risk of getting a blockage because most filaments with a fill in them are better with 0.5 or above nozzle size due to the little parts inside the filament that makes up the fill.

  11. Why are you picking to abort the print on the material run out?

     

    If its a false reading you can pick to carry on printing/ turn the sensor off  and then when the prints done. Turn it back on and look into why you getting a false run out (tension wrong on feeder/ filament wet/ feeder needing a clean).

     

    When you abort a print, you got to wait for it to cool down the build plate so its safe to remove, now if you printing at a high temp with a hot build plate thats going take sometime and when cool it asks you to confirm the prints removed.

     

    Maybe your turning the printer off why its still cooling down? If not you could always factory reset from the printers menu.

  12. Looking at your settings, your nozzle seems to be a 0.4 nozzle going by the normal print line width settings you have. But i see you are going with a line width starting from 0.8 with the setting " Skirt/Brim Line Width:" what in the settings above you got last set at 1.5.

     

    This means your asking the printer to make a single line thats 0.8-1.5mm wide when you only have a nozzle thats 0.4 wide. So set the " Skirt/Brim Line Width" setting to between 0.35 - 0.4

     

    Also just to add, if you want a wider brim, you edit the "Brim Width" setting.

  13. Hi,

     

    This is more a little something that bugs me because i know you can override the setting, But when you make a custom material profile in Cura and use it and then go to print i get a message saying i need to change the material.

     

    My profile is a PLA profile and i select PLA when loading the S5 but i still get the message so i have to always override it. Is there anything i'm missing that i should be doing that is making the message come up?

     

    1208976485_Screenshot2020-04-11at00_14_41.thumb.png.dfa980cb1a5743dbf1731c0d9f612e3a.png

     

    2091236663_Screenshot2020-04-11at00_23_08.thumb.png.4f3d5a546326b5ebea28bafa9f30c3ea.png

  14. On 3/31/2020 at 7:04 AM, gandy said:

    @Carla_Birch We have the same problem with PVA on the S5, here. Both with and without the material station, PVA appears to be so brittle, it breaks very often during transport to the printcore. Once, it even shattered to small pieces inside the extruder enclosure so we had to dismantle it to get everything out. Adjusting the feeder tension is something we had thought about just recently, but is there a suggested procedure of doing that? I assume the tension has to be smaller, but how can I see when it is too small or even has the right tension? Any help or pointing in the right direction is highly appreciated.

     

    Thanks,

    Andy.

    If the PVA is brittle i would personally try drying it out as it can take on water very fast, this is why i store mine in a polybox and print from it.

     

    First up i would give the feeder a good clean inside if you been having a problem with PVA, because you find all little bits inside. then with a dry out spool or another new fresh open spool load it up and do some test prints. For the tension its kinda a guess work deal to be true, you don't want it to tight where its digging in what could snap the filament but then you don't want it to loose where it could slip and dig a chunk out of the filament and stop feeding.

     

    So it's one of them where you need to look at some the filament from out the tube and see what the grip marks are like on it.

  15. In Italy 3D printers got used to print replacement parts for heath care machines in hospitals but problem is they can not openly give out stl files for parts due to patterns and copyrights from the company’s that own/make the machines.

     

    But that don’t stop people from contacting local doctors and hospitals and saying they are willing to help if needed and explain what your able to do.

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