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Shadowman

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Posts posted by Shadowman

  1. 2 hours ago, Brulti said:

    I tended to use prime tower every time I used two filaments, be it PLA + PVA or just two colors, then I progressively tried without it and I realized that it works as well, perhaps even better, without the prime tower. Settings for UM-brand filaments are quite good. I recently finished printing a sculpture for a customer that required quite a bit of PVA, and there was nearly no problem with the PVA: no strands, no mixing with the PLA, etc, while I would have more when using the prime tower. Plus it takes less material and less time, the sculpt was thin but tall (about 20cm).

     

    That being said, the new prime tower that consists of basically two towers nested into each other, one per material, should help with the problem of towers falling that was caused mostly by the two materials (like PVA and PLA) not sticking together well as they're not really meant to be used on alternating layers.

    Well, once the new Ultimaker Cura deplyment is stable I look forward to the new Prime Tower design as I had another Prime Tower last night fail 48 hours into the print and as the result I have Breakaway filament intermixed with the print.

     

    Ugh

  2. 1 hour ago, kmanstudios said:

    Yes, I understand that, but it does not answer why there would be no 'regular' profiles for it. As I said, if someone is looking to buy a large bore nozzle, they would want to be able to print something other than an abrasive material with it.

    This is my “exact” intention otherwise the CC is an expensive specific use only Print Core.

     

    I too am very surprised.

  3. 27 minutes ago, TwoDrunkOwls said:

    Smithy,

     

    I do understand that the UM3 is not top of the heap.  The parts coming out of the printers at work teach me that every day.  However, and I say this with all due respect, one look at UM's website tells me that support printing is where they believe this product shines.  That is why I am so bummed out, not to say worried.  I'll give you last word on that if you want it.??

     

    As for moisture in the PVA I am with you.  After 2+ days of printing the gyro failed.  The support material printed worse and worse and then stopped altogether.  Has to be moisture.  I hope.  

     

    IMG_0425.thumb.JPG.22443e29b1d3e0a6117fede437676e7f.JPG

     

    I am going to start two topics in the Materials forum, one for the Egyptian Cat and one for the gyro.  Most likely should have put this there to begin with.  I guess I'll reserve this thread for my posts stating how much I am freaking out that this printer and I are now 1 for 10 using support.  

     

    That's:

    • 9 fails
    • 1 success
    • 1.6 million butterflies in my gut hinting that I may have made a big mistake.

     

    Oh yeah, this is the only successful print.  I shall name him '3500'.  Because so far, THAT'S HOW MUCH HE COST ME!

    IMG_20181103_184251490_HDR.thumb.jpg.40a576e90fa32fe20759fede42adc810.jpg

     

    Sorry about the 'all caps'.  Whew!  I feel much better.?

     

    Regards,

    TwoDrunkOwls

    Frustration understood and appropriate.

     

    NO issue with the CAPS... 

     

    You need to be heard.

  4. 1 hour ago, RudydG said:

    They got to be kidding, for a machine of his pricelevel, we can expect at least a intelligent lighting situation, dimming to 0 after x time, auto on a touch of the screen, AND, auto on when accessing the camera. I think this must be about 1 hour of programming work.

    Again, at my office have problems with the night guard / security, and even co-workers, who don't understand that these lights are on day and night!

     

    Ditto 

  5. Lon

     

    Here is what my IT Guru said;

     

    1. Try the phone and see if both the laptop  and the printer can see each other; neither of us know as we have never tried it.

     

    If unsuccessful below are 3 options.

     

    2. Use a hotspot device such as the one I shared in the picture as we know this will work.

     

    3. Grab an Access Point or Broadband router; maybe a used one laying around and plug it in ( is doesn’t need to be anything fancy) but don’t connect to the office network but rather you will connect your laptop to it via LAN or wireless and then connect your printer to it wirelessly.

     

    4. Create an ad hoc connection between the laptop and the printer. The draw back to this is it is command prompt command driven so you need to be comfortable in this arena and must be undone once the testing is completed.

     

    Takes care.

  6. 16 minutes ago, LonRobinson3 said:

     

    I am on a Mac running high Sierra. My Engineers are on windows 10.

    All of us have the same issue.

    I deleted my earlier comment because I was wrong; you can’t be on WiFi and broadcast WiFi at the same time.

     

    So back to the original plan.

     

    Use your phone and hotspot connect to your laptop and the printer and see if they can see each other.

     

    If not; connect your laptop via LAN to your office network and then use the hotspot feature within the laptop to connect to the printer.

     

    https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.howtogeek.com/214053/how-to-turn-your-mac-into-a-wi-fi-hotspot/amp/

     

    For your information; if you have access to a Windows 10 based laptop then you can;

     

    Use your phone to hotspot to the laptop and then broadcast WiFi for the printer; this would be the ideal situation.

     

    ”Windows has a useful feature that allows you to create a virtual Wi-Fi adapter interface, making it possible to both connect to a Wi-Fi network and create a Wi-Fi hotspot using the same physical network interface at the same time. This feature is hidden, but you can access it using the Virtual Router software—this uses the same Windows features as Connectify, a commercial application. Macs unfortunately don’t have the same sort of virtual network interface feature. To share a Wi-Fi connection over Wi-Fi, you’ll need a separate physical Wi-Fi interface.”

     

    Takes care.

  7. 12 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    It is not required.

     

    I just found it be a huge waste of time and materials when I used it. They did make a lot of changes about the time I stopped using it with the start print temp and end print temp and a few other things.

     

    Oddly, when I stopped using it, I stopped getting strings of PVA stuck inside my other material. Probably because it was at temp and oozing when using the priming tower whilst traveling from tower to model.

    Interesting 

     

    I am in the midst of a long print using Ultimaker Breakaway filament  for the first time. Speaking of which; the print failed several hours in because there was a raft and the PLA would not stick to it. The PLA simply curled and lifted. I cleaned the build plate, changed it to brim and 12 hours later it seems to be doing fine.

     

    Lesson learned......... “Breakaway can’t be used for raft”.

     

    I will try the next print which has much PVA being used without a Prime Tower and see how it does. I always understood that using the Prime Tower purged and cleaned the Print Core making it ready for the next layer; I was told to do this by the Ultimaker support team on day one.

     

    Thank you  

  8. 18 minutes ago, LonRobinson3 said:

    Thank you, perhaps I could test by bypassing the network all together and running a cat5 network cable direct from my macbook straight to the printer. could I do a direct connection? or should I connect both to a router with nothing else on it?

    The LAN connection won’t validate the WiFi issue; how about using a portable hotspot? You could connect both your laptop and printer to the same hotspot network.

     

    At least this way you will have isolated the WiFi portion of the equation.

    • Like 1
  9. 18 hours ago, Link said:

    Does the 2+ come with smoothers already installed from UM ?, if not are they needed ?, they seem to be a popular printer on other printers but not heard about them on UM printers 

    Do you mean to.o surface smoothing?

     

    If yes, Ultimaker Cura has an ironing feature. I have not used it but have heard from others that it works fine. 

     

    Not having a 2+ I can only assume that the feature will work with it.

  10. 43 minutes ago, Smithy said:

     

    It is basically not wrong and you get beautiful prints out of the box with the Ultimakers, but maybe not so out of the box with PVA. It is more a problem of the material as with the printer. 

     

    The UM printers are in a higher price range, but that don't mean you can print with just a click. In 90% it is just a click, but more sophisticated prints and to these fraction I also count PVA support, it isn't. But I am sure after your first disappointment you will be very happy with it. Compare an Anet A8 and the Prusa, there is a big difference and now you did the next step but the UMs are not the top of the hill.

    Well stated.......

     

    We are fortunate that humidity is not an issue as such PVA works fairly well; in fact, for intricate items it is phenomenal.

     

    I learned the hard way; do “not” leave PVA in the nozzle if printing without it as it will get cooked in the Print Core.

     

    My recommendation is to unload and remove it after every print so as to reduce the risk.

     

    Takes care 

  11. 20 minutes ago, TwoDrunkOwls said:

     

    Cura 3.5.1

    I asked because I have read where others were having support issues with Ultimaker Cura 3.5 and 3.5.1 and reverted back to using 3.4.1.

     

    I use 3.4.1 and until today when I am trying the Ultimaker Breakaway material; all of my prints have required PVA support.

     

    The only issue  that I have had with PVA has been the Prime Tower.

     

    Unless someone has a better or more viable suggestion I would encourage you to try Ultmaker Cura 3.4.1.

  12. 4 minutes ago, Smithy said:

     

    I used it one time with a smaller print and it was fine. Breakaway sounds very fragile but it is more than stable. I had to use some pliers to get the material off, but it breaks really exactly where it should and there was afterwards nearly no cleanup needed.

     

    One tip, use some gloves when breaking off the support....

    Thank you and gloves will be used.

  13. 1 minute ago, Smithy said:

    Sounds good!

     

    Thanks @kmanstudios, now I am looking forward the run out of the filament more relaxed ? 

    So am I; LOL

     

    I have deal with spool wrap jams but not an out of filament situation so I await your results.

     

    I just loaded a 4 day print with the new S5 firmware and this will be my first usage of the Ultimaker Breakaway materiel; I am anxious to see how it performs. I have been using PVA filament exclusively since the S5 arrived with good results except........... for the structural integrity of the Prime Tower.

     

    Hopefully the development team gets the issues resolved within Ultimaker Cura 3.?????? as I understand that the Prime Tower is one of the issues being tended to.

  14. 1 minute ago, Smithy said:

     

    Do you think the rest of the filament will come out itself without opening the Bowden tube?

    I don’t think can; I think you would have to remove the Bowden tube and the old filament, insert the Bowden tube and then begin the load process otherwise it will simply chew away on the filament in the feeder or appear as out because the filament can’t move.

     

    Just my thoughts 

  15. 3 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    Basically go to the material section and choose the material and then change. then follow the prompts.

    Will this complete a complete load process?

     

    If yes; are you saying;

     

    When the out of material messsge is displayed to go to load material and complete the process as if no print in running and once completed go back to the main screen and select continue?

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