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Shadowman

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Posts posted by Shadowman

  1. 22 minutes ago, LonRobinson3 said:

    I haven't had much time to work on it this week, as I have been traveling.

    I was able to connect both my laptop and the Ultimaker s5 to the hotspot on my iphone.

    It seemed to work for a short time (2 or 3 minutes?) and then the connection to cura was lost.

    The printer did not reboot at that point, but I could not reconnect, even though both devices were still showing up on the hotspot.

     

    I tried to use a wireless router that is not connected to my company network, but I had a similar reset issue there.

    I ran out of time at that point and hope to do more testing with this tomorrow.

    Thank you for the status update.

     

    Takes care 

  2. I am not sure if this is a contribution nonetheless my IT suggested sharing it as we don’t know the WiFi hardware Ultimaker is using.

     

    There are downsides to not broadcasting your SSID, especially if you use a legacy computer. Windows 10 is pretty good at Wi-Fi networking and can hold a connection to a network regardless of whether you broadcast the SSID or not. Older versions of Windows, computers that use USB Wi-Fi adapters, some older phones and tablets do have trouble finding and holding networks without an SSID.”

     

    Takes care 

  3. 3 minutes ago, HardWater526 said:

    Sign me up for this too. At the very least, the LED should go out when its done printing, not stay on until after i hit confirm removal. If i have a print that finishes at Friday at 7pm, I dont want the printer light on at full blast all weekend. A setting of "upon print completion" with a 3 step slider with settings of "off" "dim" and "flash" would be great. 

    Thank you for making your position clear.

     

    Takes care 

  4. 2 hours ago, Carla_Birch said:

    Just got a few day print going right now so will have to try reset after that prints done. But i was thinking the led bug fixed was just the one where the led would not react to the slider? My led reacts to the slider and thats how bright they are on the lowest setting.

     

    IMG_6346.thumb.jpg.314ef53ceb0d4a53afce63ec35de1f6b.jpg

    Thats the printer on full brightness in a dark room., vs the below (what i posted above) on the min setting

    FA4306A0-BE14-4CFE-9A18-B077805CAF27.jpeg.5292f471d8a58d3a70456abf1cdb61f0.thumb.jpeg.bce98ae5b38f74afe20214ce7480c8fe.jpeg

    Mine is exactly as yours; I have installed the new firmware.

     

    My slider function also operates fine.

     

    Both the max bright and min bright pictures are as mine.

     

    The Leds need to be able to be turned off as desired and without a doubt; off when not printing.

  5. 35 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    Honestly, I think the prime tower is a great idea as it offers comfort to newbies. I know it did me until I got information about it and this was during the changes that they put in regarding the preheating and cool down temps.

     

    But it is nice to get weened off it as it does add a lot of material usage and time.

     

    Basically, a great starting point when new to machines, but eventually there is a time to expand.

     

    Edit: and though they do try to offer things that are good for other printers than the UM line, it does carry well with the UM printers.

    For me the Print Tower was a new feature as was having dual Print Cores so when told to use it I just assumed it was a prerequisite required to get the best out of the two Print Cores.

     

    Much frustration was felt when it failed.

     

    I have learned .... and been weened.

     

    Thank you 

  6. 54 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    At the risk of asking the obvious, then why try the new prime tower if prints are doing well without it. Or is this just a test to see if it works?

    Good question 

     

    Based on my results remain thus far I will forgo using Prime Tower. 

     

    I was simpky sharing which version of Ultimaker Cura that I am using during which I have had the Prime Tower fail numerous times and also making clear that I have no experience with the new version so others reading would have a baseline to compare to.

     

    I followed your suggestion and am “very” happy with the results.

     

    As I stated previously; my reason for using Prime Tower was as the direct result of Ultimaker’s team telling me that it would offer the best results; I can now share without reservation that this is not the case.

  7. I just completed 3 prints using Ultimaker Breakaway filament for the first time.

     

    Print 1, the Prime Tower failed a couple day’s into the print and drug Breakaway filament into the print; it was not good.

     

    Print 2, no Prime Tower and the print was without issues.

     

    Print 3, no Prime Tower and the print was without issue. 

     

    Now I will try Printing PVA and PLA without a Prime Tower and see how it goes.

     

    Without the Prime Tower time print time is measurably less and certainly less material is used.

     

    For what it’s worth I am using Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1 so I have not tried the new style Prime Tower.

     

    Takes care.

  8.  

    20 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    I think it will go in the right direction now. That's why Sander was asking for specific requirements to understand the source and background about the issue.

    Humm.

     

    As much as I appreciate the support from SandervG and the Develoment  Team there is a bit of a two step going on here; I say two step because of the following.

     

    Now let me make clear that I mean not to promote an argument and yet I am not good with inconsistencies in the story. I expect continuity to that which is shared from the beginning to the end.

     

    Now as for why the LED situation is important to some and benign and even invisible to others is not the issue nor should it matter.

     

    As such I share the following;

     

    Over a month ago SandervG and I communicated independent of the thread about the LEDs; I was told that it was a known issue to be resolved in the next firmware update.

     

    Below is a portion of my conversation with him;

     

    1. The frame light remains on 24/7. It is bright while printing and then once we confirm that we have removed the object from the build plate the leds go dim but do not turn off“

     

    This leaves only the led lights (a minor issue) that you and your team are acknowledging and the FW updating issues.”

     

     

  9. This has become an interesting thread.

     

    The ECO mode comments when associated with a dimmed LED should be of little concern as the milliamp draw is negligible at best nonetheless, for some as indicated within this thread it is a real issue.

     

    As stated earlier; it is simply the act of not having the printer glowing as if a display piece in a window 24/7; there simply is no reason.

     

    When the S5 was initially received I questioned why when the “on only when printing” option was selected did it not in fact turn the LEDs off but rather they simply reduced to glowing; this based on what someone else felt was appropriate; I was told that it was a bug to be resolved in the next firmware; it was not.

     

    As with most folks we have many pieces of hardware that have activity lighting however, they all go off and or are able to be turned of at will; this sure seems like a no brainer to me.

     

    As a poor nonetheless real example; within and around your home, computer screen, other printers, your stove light, microwave light, washer and dryer lights, your TV, your vanity lights, your room lights, your outside “night” lighting, even your TV remote will stop luminating when not being used, etc.. None of these items remain on 24/7 aka constantly.

     

    It simply make no sense.

     

    Furthemore; the option within the menu is “on only when printing” as such by the very words used means “off” when not printing.

     

    Now I understand that for some having the glow of the printer throughout the day and night is cool; then within the code it can allow for “on only when printing” as the option indicates now or “glow when not printing”.

     

    As I said; this is truly an interesting thread.

    • Like 1
  10. 2 hours ago, SandervG said:

     

    Hi Everyone, thank you for all the feedback. Due to the intensity of some of these responses I suspect not everyone is experiencing the same intended behavior. @Bigbrit, can you share a video or photo of what your garage looks like when the LEDs are off?

     

    The bug that was fixed in the firmware was a bug that some printers did not respond when you moved the sliding bar to the far left (off) on the Ultimaker S5 display, so LEDs stayed on at 100%. This is fixed, meaning, the sliding bar should work for everyone. Small nuance, when the slider bar is to the far left the LEDs are not 100% off, I think they might be on for 1% or less. 

    When I just checked, I didn't even see they were still on except when I held my hand entirely against the frame I saw a faint glow. Is this glow what you are talking about @Shadowman ? I think the lights of the print cores are probably brighter. 

     

    Next there is also an option to select 'Only on while printing', which means that the LEDs are on until you click 'confirm print removal' on the display. 

     

    Based on this discussion I think it's good to validate some definitions and scenarios. 

     

    When the LEDs are off, but glow minimally by 1%, is this troublesome for anyone? 

    If you want to prove a point, photo's would be much appreciated.

     

    If so, in which scenario? I read somewhere office security might have an issue with it. In this case, would it make more sense to turn off the LEDs yourself anyway? If 'on while printing' would be enabled, there is a fair chance the LEDs would still be on anyway when you run a multi-day print. 

     

    And generally, in which scenario do you feel the LEDs are not supporting your needs? 

     

    Looking forward hearing from you, and apologies if the 'LEDs are fixed in the firmware'-statement was confusing. I understand we might have been talking about different behavior/bug. 

    Good day SandervG 

     

    To make clear again;

     

    1. The “only on when printing” option does not turn the LEDs off when not printing; it only dims them.

     

    2. When the LEDs are dimmed the printer luminates the entire dark room; it simply needs to be able to be turned off.

     

    Thank You

  11. 5 hours ago, Dim3nsioneer said:

    Cursing does probably not speed up things at @Ultimaker. I think e.g. @SandervG has probably already passed the request on to the right people or could give an advise here who to tag for this.

    I apologize if a previous post by me made someone think the issue was ressolved and led to a disappointment; I edited that post in the meantime. Please be aware I do not work at Ultimaker; so please do not blame them for that wrong statement.

    No worries as it was Ultimaker that indicated that the LEDs would finally be able to be turned off.

     

    Takes care 

  12. 8 minutes ago, RudydG said:

    Yes, even my old UM2+ already has this feature, and this expensive printer, where we pay the premium for what should be a super balanced piece of technology, lacks a basic feature.

    My thoughts were conveyed to  Ultimaker on day one.... then assured that the situation was resolved ... here we are still no change.

     

    Disappinted would imply that I understand however, I don’t, as such I am so far beyond disappointed and have entered the world of, dare I say; WTF!!!

     

    Ugh.........

  13. 9 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    Sorry to hear...

    It is always hard when such things happen after several hours and the print finally fails.

    Certainly a bummer however, being my first use with Ultimaker Breakaway filament I was prepared to get to know it.

     

    I considered doing a smaller test print however, decided to dive in blindly head first.

     

    The next one will be much better.

     

    Thank you for your comments.

  14. 21 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    Thank you for understanding. I would venture that things are not fully read and understood. There seems to be a very limited scope in many replies.

     

    But a start up on a limited budget would not be able to afford both and would want to use the CC core as a large bore nozzle for more than just abrasive materials.

    I am 100% with you.....

  15. 1 hour ago, eldrick said:

    The problem with the 1,2,3,4,4,3,2,1 sequence is that parts one and four are going to have two layers printed in sequence, and for small parts the first layer won't have time to cool before the next one starts, which often affects print quality negatively - it can leave globs on the parts at the beginnings and ends of the sequence.


    Several slicers have used this sequence in the past, and most have stopped doing so because PQ is more important than time - it's a bug, not a feature…

    Agreed 

  16. Thank you both

     

    As stated previously; this was my first use of Ultimaker Breakaway filament and it was a mixed experience thus far.

     

    The first print failed after 7 plus hours because the PLA filament did not adhere to it as such the PLA curled and lifted. Then about 40 hours in on the second attempt the Breakaway filament on the spool bound up causing an out of filament stop and then 48 hours into the print the Prime Tower failed allowing Breakaway filament to be embedded within the PLA layers.

     

    An interesting few days..........

  17. 1 hour ago, Brulti said:

    I believe 3.4 had the circular prime tower, which already helps with stability. You can make it thicker, like 3 or 4 mm thick instead of the default thickness and also move it away from the corner and into the middle of a side, so it sticks better.

    Yes it does however, I was not aware that I could modify it; I will try this as a stop gap measure; thank you.

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