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    Ultimaker 3

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  1. So far, I used two plates: one to print on bare glass and the other covered with an adhesion sheet (both "sticker"-side), using the sheets mainly to print ABS and sometimes Nylon, the glass plate to print with CPE, PLA, TPU and Nylon. Now this doubles the usability (two times bare glass and two times adhesion sheets using only two glass plates).
  2. Hi Chris, the sintered bushing (like every part of the sliding blocks) is the same for UM2, UM3 and S5, regarding to the description of my reseller (igo3d in Germany): https://www.igo3d.com/ultimaker-2-sinteredbushing perhaps this helps you to find the part at your reseller in GB. Regards
  3. Hi, I don't own a S5, only an UM3, but as they are very similar, here my thoughts to your problem: it could be play on the axles (see https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52606-check-for-play-on-the-axles to check this), bad tention on the belts (short belts or even long belts) or a not correctly calibrated print head. The print head calibration at the S5 should work like at the UM3 (see here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/50871-check-for-play-on-axles note: the calibration sticks provided for the UM3 won't fit the S5, as the diameter of the axles of the S5 seem to be bigger). For tightening the long belts, there are some good tutorials on youtube, like e.c. this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNLt8S9hjjc I hope I could help. Regards
  4. Hi @SandervG, did I understand right, that it would be possible to put an adhesion sheet on the tin side and then just decide printing on the glass-side (and adhesion sheet on the heat bed) and vice versa ("dual-use")? Regards
  5. Hi, the part-numbers are 1967 (the worn-out half on the photo) and 1968. One also realy useful solution would be this: http://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-3-extruder-lever-mod Works pretty well for me. Regards
  6. Hi Gherndo, this fancy little tube is called "prime tower" and, as you supposed, is meant to clean the nozzles in dual extrusion prints to prevent unwanted material bits of the wrong material in the print (acting as a kind of "ooze shield"). It is found (and can be turned off) in the menue point "Dual Extrusion" (third lower point in the picture you posted). If you turn it off, it could appear that the nozzles are oozing and contaminating your print with the wrong material at unwanted positions, so do it with caution and on your own risk. Alternatively, you could use the "ooze shield" (this creates a small shell around your print where the oozed material is shaved off) instead of the prime tower, but I think the prime tower needs less material. I always use the prime tower when printing dual extrusion mode. And since Cura 4.1.0, you can activate a special brim for the prime tower (independently from your adhesion settings) to prevent it from tilting when printing high objects. Regards
  7. Once the print is sent to the UM3, Cura ant the PC can be turned off. The UM3 is concipated as "stand alone". If the PC and Cura is restarted while printing, they connect to the printer and show the progress. The g-code is stored in the printer's memory.
  8. Hi emtee, the following topic contains the needed informations to return to 4.3.3. via "unbricking-procedure": it contains the original topic by @gr5 how to unbrick an UM3, the PDF-WorkInstructions how to do it step-by-step (including the source of the needed recovery image) and also a helpful hint of @gr5 for lift switch calibration. Regards
  9. Hi, the first thing I could imagine is an incorrect distance between the top of the base plate and the bottom of the heater plate, which should be approximately 14 mm for the auto leveling to work properly. There exists a distance tool for easy adjustment: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool Which error-number is the "out of reasonable" attached? Perhaps there is a helpful description and solution on the UM homepage, like for example this: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/47734-difference-between-detected-height-of-both-printcores-exceeds-realistic-values Does your capacitive sensor work properly (can be checked in the diagnostics menue since last firmware)? Regards
  10. "On the Ultimaker 3 menu, navigate to System > Maintenance > Diagnostics > Dump logs to USB. Make sure a USB stick is inserted into the printer to store the log files." (quote from Ultimaker homepage)
  11. after the img recovery, your firmware should be 4.3.3 (as @Dim3nsioneer mentioned above). Try this version BEFORE upgrading to 4.3.9. If it works (and is stable), i suggest you stay with it. Regards
  12. Using this version for printing is not recommended, as it could lead to unstable behaviour and even "bricking" (which would lead to the requirement of the img procedure...). I'd suggest, if you find the installation files for the older firmware (there is a topic somewhere in this forum, but I didn't find it at the moment), install the old version, othervice try the update to 5.2.11 by USB. If it doesn't fix your issue, then retry the img procedure and stay at that firmware version till next firmware update is released. @CarloK or someone else at Team Ultimaker: would this be a legit solution?
  13. @Dim3nsioneer is right. 3.3.97 is just a "stepping stone" firmware only created for installing 5.2.11. If your firmware reads something below 3.3.96 (threre was a stepping stone for the "buggy" firmware 5.2.8) after img recovery, you have the choice to keep this version (by non-uptating) or to update to latest. If it reads 3.3.97, updating to 5.2.11 is mandatory. Printing with 3.3.9x could lead to the "stuck on 'remove print'" issue, described in some topics of this forum
  14. I think, Dim3nsioneer means the "unbricking procedure" described in the forum, for example here: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/28247-um3-system-boot-cannot-start-up-system-failure/ (summary of the relevant informations) Regards
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