Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Enigma_M4 last won the day on August 10

Enigma_M4 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

36 Excellent

Personal Information

  • Industry

Recent Profile Visitors

1,136 profile views
  1. Hi, Windows 7 is not the culprit. I keep Cura 4.7.1 running on a Win7 environment, using an i7 processor with graphics onboard (OpenGL 4.4) Regards
  2. Hi, this link is a big improvement to the situation before, when the instructions for axle alignment were totally gone. Just download the attached PDF of your preferred language and follow the instructions in chapter 3 (page 20 and following). The calibrating sticks can be found on youmagine or thingiverse. For the S5 you need two sets of different sizes referring to the different axle sizes of the S5. Regards
  3. Hi, it sounds a bit like active levelling. If you touch the z-screw, (where you can reach it best without interfering the moving parts, maybe somewhere under the z-table, maybe on the top of the z-screw) you may feel it move while this rattling noise happens. If that's the case, your build platform is -a bit- out of level, causing the active levelling system to compensate this on the first few layers of your print. Regards
  4. He was named "Jaws" (or in German: "Beißer"). Regards
  5. It's a wavy infill pattern which creates a full 3dimensional web-like structure, like bone. In the second video there's some reference.
  6. Hi, there's a good overview on youtube, by CNC Kitchen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmEaNAwFSfI and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upELI0HmzHc As infill is just for compressing forces, I prefer Gyroid, as it shows strength from every direction. But that's just my oppinion, I may be wrong. Regards
  7. Hi Adam, you can remove the print core while the printer is powered off and unplugged, without using the menu, if the filament is unloaded. Just open the fan bracket, compress the print core lever and pull out the print core to the front, just applying a little bit of pressure on the upper corner of the translucent part of the print core lever. If it's the right-sided print core, it must be in the lower position. Regards
  8. Hi, from the printhead and the Ultibot on your side panel shown on your pics, I suppose you're using an UM3. Your issue reminds me of another thread in the past: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/28882-continued-printing-issues/?do=findComment&comment=243498 Possibly it helps. Regards
  9. What about keeping the NFC sensor cable plugged in the printer, eventually taking the sensor out of the spoolholder and putting it somewhere near the printer, where it doesn't disturb?
  10. Using a clamp or not, I think the most important is proper working of the magnets, that hold the fan bracket close. If that's not the case, there's a good instruction video, provided by @fbrc8-erin: However it is achieved: preventing a head flood is preventing lots of frustration. Regards
  11. Playing the game WILL result in experience 😉. I forgot to mention that my experience is made with an UM3, 0.4mm nozzle, so the gap value may vary for other printers / nozzle sizes / materials. A higher gap value for PETG may result in what I experienced with PLA, but I wasnt brave enough going above 0.3 at all (It's just trial and error and achieving a big learning curve while playing the game 😉).
  12. Hi, the brim gap was the most useful enhancement of the last cura versions. My first test after availability was printing a comb (PLA), using a 0.2mm gap. It printed perfect and the brim just separated while removing the print from the build plate, resulting in the cleanest first layer I ever got (no elefant foot). Printing with CPE (PETG), a 0.3mm gap results in a very well adhering brim, which can be removed nearly perfect, just bending up and down. Many thanks to all who were involved in the implementation of this great feature. Regards
  13. Hi, I can't help with your problem, but the attached files (STLs) don't help finding the issue. It would be good if you post the gcode file that works and a gcode file, that doesn't print, and perhaps the corresponding cura project files. These are the informations, the gcode-cracks in this forum normally need 😉. Regards
  14. The tweeks and options in the "custom" section are overwhelming. Sometimes it's easier to start with the "Recommended" section and -if the "intent profiles" are available, as for the S-series, choose the spot that matches the desired result. https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/30191-ultimaker-cura-44-released-with-new-intent-profiles/ Regards
  • Create New...