Enigma_M4

Hi Dan, the two big issues in 3D-printing are: the prints don't stick to the bed (while printing) the prints stick too good to the bed (after printing) For first tips you should regard to the following post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21620-tip-bed-adhesion/ What kind of printer / print bed do you have? Using a heated glass bed, you should regard it's free of grease (finger prints) and as clean as possible; a thin layer of glue or an adhesive sheet of some kind also can help. For me, PLA just prints fine on clean bare glass, hea

Hi, just installed the new FW and as far I could test, it's working well. The only issue I noticed is the "Analytics Material Bug" It's nice to know that ending production of the UM3 doesn't mean dropping of support / FW developement 🙂. Regards

Hi James, for the (network connected) UM3, the camera stream can be accessed via (IP adress):8080/?action=stream. (the colon is not part of the command) Possibly it also works for other UM Printers. Regards

Hi, for clarification: are you talking about the cable cover that sits outside the back panel of the printer, just under the spool holder? I think it's ordinary painted sheet metal, I don't think it's powder coated. But that's just a guess. Regards

Hallo, zur Teile-Bezeichnung (inkl. Teilenummern) ist die offizielle Teileliste sehr hilfreich (dort ab S. 12). UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf Zur Bezugsquelle: wie @Smithy schon sagte: iGo3D. Viele Grüße

Hi, Windows 7 is not the culprit. I keep Cura 4.7.1 running on a Win7 environment, using an i7 processor with graphics onboard (OpenGL 4.4) Regards

Hi, this link is a big improvement to the situation before, when the instructions for axle alignment were totally gone. Just download the attached PDF of your preferred language and follow the instructions in chapter 3 (page 20 and following). The calibrating sticks can be found on youmagine or thingiverse. For the S5 you need two sets of different sizes referring to the different axle sizes of the S5. Regards

Hi, it sounds a bit like active levelling. If you touch the z-screw, (where you can reach it best without interfering the moving parts, maybe somewhere under the z-table, maybe on the top of the z-screw) you may feel it move while this rattling noise happens. If that's the case, your build platform is -a bit- out of level, causing the active levelling system to compensate this on the first few layers of your print. Regards

He was named "Jaws" (or in German: "Beißer"). Regards

It's a wavy infill pattern which creates a full 3dimensional web-like structure, like bone. In the second video there's some reference.

Hi, there's a good overview on youtube, by CNC Kitchen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmEaNAwFSfI and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upELI0HmzHc As infill is just for compressing forces, I prefer Gyroid, as it shows strength from every direction. But that's just my oppinion, I may be wrong. Regards

Hi Adam, you can remove the print core while the printer is powered off and unplugged, without using the menu, if the filament is unloaded. Just open the fan bracket, compress the print core lever and pull out the print core to the front, just applying a little bit of pressure on the upper corner of the translucent part of the print core lever. If it's the right-sided print core, it must be in the lower position. Regards

Hi, from the printhead and the Ultibot on your side panel shown on your pics, I suppose you're using an UM3. Your issue reminds me of another thread in the past: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/28882-continued-printing-issues/?do=findComment&comment=243498 Possibly it helps. Regards

What about keeping the NFC sensor cable plugged in the printer, eventually taking the sensor out of the spoolholder and putting it somewhere near the printer, where it doesn't disturb?

Then my praise was in just the right place 🙂.