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Enigma_M4

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  • Field of Work
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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3

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  1. This could be easily checked by observing the z-axis when printing the first layer: if there is a ticking sound and motion of the z-axis when printing the first layer (or first layers), especially in y-direction, then auto level correction is active. As I see you have checked everything and made no mistake when levelling. Unfortunately, I'm now at my wits' end :-( Regards
  2. Hi, the adhesion sheets are no issue, neither for manual nor for active leveling. When doing manual levelling, be careful not to apply any pressure (up or down) on the platform when adjusting the two front screws (happened to me: adjusted just fine with the calibration card, but when I took my hand off the screw and re-checked, the adjustment was not good and had to be redone). The issue you describe is that the front side of the printbed is closer to the print head than the rear side. Do the axles of the print head (especially the y-axis) sit properly in the sliding blocks? Regards
  3. Hi akke, the problem you described looks like a print bed heavily out of level (tilted backward), so manual leveling should be done again. Active leveling is not able to reposition the print bed, but only measures how far it is out of level and corrects it at the first 2-3 layers which means: the better the bed is leveled (manual), the less correction the activ levelling has to do (and the less out of level is the bottom of your print). The "weak" spring should be no issue, so it's your choice to keep it as it is or to replace it with a new one (part nr. 1788, spring DR2160). Check, if the distance of the bottom of the heat bed and the top of the build platform is about 14mm (which is needed for active levelling to work properly) Regards
  4. Hi, assuming you use an UM3? The 14mm are needed not between the nozzle and the glass plate, but between the underside of the heat bed and the upper side of the build plattform (base plate). The distance nozzle - glass bed should be manual levelled using the calibration card. Regards
  5. Hi Cosmin, @fbrc8-erin has posted a good tutorial video about reseating axles and sliding blocks on youtube: It's for the UM3, but the procedure is the same, as the sliding blocks are identical at UM3 and S5. Taking apart the sliding block is not necessary. This video shows how the sliding block is assembled (just for your interest): Regards
  6. Hi, the blob is created for each used head, right before it starts printing. A not used head doesn't waste material for just a blob. If you use only head 1, only head 1 creates a blob, if you only use head 2, only head 2 creates a blob, if you use both heads, both create a blob. Regards
  7. Hi Cosmin, thanks for clarification. The prime blob should solve this issue too, as it helps to prime each extruder used. If you use a brim or even a skirt, these extra lines also help priming the nozzle before starting the "real" print. The priming behaviour seems to have changed a bit in the last Cura versions. Regards
  8. Hi Cosmin, if I understood you correct, the PVA is not extruded from extruder 2 when it should be (you wrote PLA is not extruded in dual extrude mode)? This sounds like the PVA is retracted to much at the beginning of the print. You could try to activate the "prime blob" and the "prime tower" in Cura. Regards
  9. Hi, in the material-settings for each material, there are two entries for material cost and spool weight, which have to be filled for EACH material you are using. Cura then tells the length of filament on the specified spool and the cost per meter. With these parameters set, the costing is displayed under the estimated print time. Regards
  10. Hi, why not just use the "mirror" function of Cura (the 4th symbol in the left toolbar; shortcut 'M')? Regards
  11. Hi, hughwyeth, taking apart the original lever is no big thing, if done carefully. At first, the cross-shaped clamp at the "lever"-side should gently be disconnected (be careful not to break the tabs!). I used a flat screwdriver blade (the one of a victorinox swiss knive worked best for me) put between the two halves and gently pressed the two opposite tabs with tweezers, just enough for them to disengage the two halves at this point. You should take care to not cant the parts to much. Then the axle (press-fit) of the bearing should be disconnected by using a flat screwdriver between the not-worn side of your photo above and the bearing. The inner part of the axle (at part 1968) should slide off the outer part (at part 1967) where the bearing sits on. My first attempt was successful while working with care; disassembling the second lever, I broke one of the spring-parts because of insufficient patience... I hope the description is understandable and useful, unfortunately I have no pictures for clarification. Regards
  12. So far, I used two plates: one to print on bare glass and the other covered with an adhesion sheet (both "sticker"-side), using the sheets mainly to print ABS and sometimes Nylon, the glass plate to print with CPE, PLA, TPU and Nylon. Now this doubles the usability (two times bare glass and two times adhesion sheets using only two glass plates).
  13. Hi Chris, the sintered bushing (like every part of the sliding blocks) is the same for UM2, UM3 and S5, regarding to the description of my reseller (igo3d in Germany): https://www.igo3d.com/ultimaker-2-sinteredbushing perhaps this helps you to find the part at your reseller in GB. Regards
  14. Hi, I don't own a S5, only an UM3, but as they are very similar, here my thoughts to your problem: it could be play on the axles (see https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52606-check-for-play-on-the-axles to check this), bad tention on the belts (short belts or even long belts) or a not correctly calibrated print head. The print head calibration at the S5 should work like at the UM3 (see here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/50871-check-for-play-on-axles note: the calibration sticks provided for the UM3 won't fit the S5, as the diameter of the axles of the S5 seem to be bigger). For tightening the long belts, there are some good tutorials on youtube, like e.c. this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNLt8S9hjjc I hope I could help. Regards
  15. Hi @SandervG, did I understand right, that it would be possible to put an adhesion sheet on the tin side and then just decide printing on the glass-side (and adhesion sheet on the heat bed) and vice versa ("dual-use")? Regards
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