Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

15 Good

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3

Recent Profile Visitors

591 profile views
  1. Hi Cybersaurus, if i looked right, the two 3mm spachers belong to the Y-Rods (leading from front to back of the printer), front side (where the opening is), between the front panel and the timing-pulleys. Regards
  2. Hallo, nachfolgender Beitrag von letztem Mittwoch weist auf Leuchtstoffröhre als mögliche Ursache für Sensor-Störungen hin: Grüße
  3. Another issue could also be a disconnected cable on the sensor board inside the printhead, as described in this post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/30273-um3e-auto-bed-leveling-issue/?do=findComment&comment=251896 Regards
  4. Hi ewatson, PLA is not really the material of choice for support structures. Using a UM3, I'd recommend either PVA or Breakaway, which both work really well with nylon. PVA is easyer to remove by water-dissolution, but more expensive. Breakaway, sometimes releaves smaller strands, which are hard to grab. Regards PS (edit): Ultimaker material-compatibility-chart: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility
  5. Hi, at first look I would have guessed for a blocked nozzle, but as you say you've cleaned it, this could be sorted out. Feeder tension at middle-position is also optimal. What about your printing temperature? Could it be to cold for your material? When filament is loaded via menu (i hope the UM2 works like the UM3 in this point), the temp. is controlled by the firmaware, but when printing, it's controlled by the G-code generated by cura. And as there is a blocked nozzle when printing, what's not the case when loading the filament, to cold print settings could be the culprit. Regards
  6. Hi aag, If you select the main tab for extruder 2, what's the value for build plate adhesion extruder there? If it's extruder 2, that might be the culprit; change to extruder 1. Regards
  7. Hi Herve, @fbrc8-erin has posted a good tutorial video about reseating axles and sliding blocks on youtube: I think this perfectly fits (and hopefully solves) your issues. Regards
  8. Hi aag, possibly this thread by @gr5 is helpful for you Regards
  9. Hallo 7up, wenn Du die Originalteile bestellen willst: die Ultimaker Teilenummern sind 1967 und 1968. ...und als weitere Alternative zu Smithy's Ersatzteilvorschlägen: http://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-3-extruder-lever-mod seit ich den im Einsatz habe, will ich ihn nicht mehr missen. Viele Grüße PS: und auf Thingiverse hat sich mal jemand die Arbeit gemacht, die Original Feeder-Dateien (auch z.B. die Gehäuseteile) als STL zur Verfügugn zu stellen: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2971534 Grüße
  10. The upper surface of the translucent plastic part has two recesses, where the print head housing "grips" it. So when pressing the "release"-lever, just apply a LITTLE bit of pressure down on the translucent part and you should be able to pull the core out easily.
  11. Enigma_M4


    Hallo Peter, wie Du schon ganz richtig erkannt hast, kommt das Z-Achsen "knacken" vom aktiven Auto-Nivellieren. Das Auto-Nivellieren versucht, die Unebenheiten des Druckbetts beim Drucken der ersten 2-3 Schichten auszugleichen, damit der Druck insgesamt waagerecht wird (beim fertigen Druck ist dann halt der Boden leicht "schief"). Je besser das Druckbett manuell nivelliert ist, desto weniger muß der UM3 korrigieren und desto weniger "Knacken" tritt auf. Wichtig ist, dass der Abstand zwischen der Unterseite des Heizbetts und der Oberseite der Drucktischbasis ca. 14mm beträgt (damit das Aktive Nivellieren ordnungsgemäß funktioniert). Also weder Schrauben ganz rein, noch Schrauben ganz raus. Dafür gibts sogar ein kleines Hilfstool: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool Wenn dieser Abstand einigermaßen stimmt, dann ganz normal mit dem Menü manuell nivellieren. Beim Einstellen der vorderen beiden Schrauben mit der Calibration Card aber aufpassen, dass kein Druck auf die Schrauben und somti auf das Druckbett ausgeübt wird, da dies die Einstellarbeit verfälschen kann. Ein gut kalibrierter Drucktisch kommt dann beim Drucken ganz ohne "Knacken" aus :-) . Grüße
  12. Hi Akke, this sounds strange. Of course it could be a defective printhead PCB, but I'd guess rather a broken cable or broken cable connector inside the print head (i guess the connection between the printhead PCB and the capacitive sensor, maybe just a loose plug), as the problem is only occurring sometimes (and this would be solved easier and with less expense). I assume the reported interference is not caused by nearby electromagnetic fields (speakers / TV etc.) or being to close to the printer while active levelling (if I'm wrong, this really could be a source of errors, as the sensor is very sensitive for such disturbance, so keeping hands off the printer while active levelling is mandatory). But, as said, I'm now very deep in the field of guessing. Perhaps someone else reading these posts is able to help? Regards.
  13. Hi Oliveros, I'm happy user of "DesignSpark Mechanical" from RS Online. It needs registration, but is fully free. https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-software You could get a first impression via Youtube. Regards
  14. Hi Akke, it could be worth doing two checks before exchanging the print head cable: 1. testing the capacitive sensor via maintenance menu 2. checking the sensor cable, as described in the following post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20852-um3-auto-levelling-not-working/?tab=comments#comment-205252 Regards
  15. Hi, here's a part of an older thread, mentioning your problem: Regards
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!