Enigma_M4

Hi @ekstevens135, the newer the sheets are, the more difficult is the removal. I use them primary for printing ABS and I've noticed that removing the prints while the glass plate is still warm (at about 50°C, cold enough to take it out of the printer, in no case hotter than 60°C) the prints are easier to remove than from a cold plate. I usually take it of the printer and turn it around, so I can see the underside of the sheets, then with a knife blade, I try to lift one edge of the print (lifting can be seen from the other side), just enough to work a plastic wedge between the p

Hi and thank you for your message, which was overlapping with my last answer. I'm glad I could help you. To minimize the risk of small junks of plastic falling into the z-switch pit, there's another useful print I can recommend: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-3-z-endstop-guard Regards and Happy Printing

For this issue, there's a useful tool on youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool Regards

Hi Salvador, the log files should be useful for @CarloK or someone else at Team Ultimaker. One shot into the blue: is the Z-switch free of debris (the small pit of the Z-switch is a good place where debris of printing material could accumulate and lead to wrong Z-home-position). Before the nozzles hit the build plate, does the bed stop and rise slowly, or does it rise at constant speed? Regards

Dann dürftest Du Dir den Aufwand mit dem Achsenausrichten sparen können. Möglicher Weise ist bei Deiner Aktion nur der kurze Riemen, der den Stepper-Motor mit den Achsen verbindet, übergesprungen, was zu dem bereits erwähnten Verlust des Bezugspunkts geführt hat (korrigiert sich, wie ebenfalls bereits erwähnt, in dem Moment, in dem der Druckkopf in die Startposition zurückfährt). Trotz allem wäre dies ein guter Zeitpunkt, die Kalibrierungs-Sticks zu drucken und bei Deinem Druckerwerkzeug zu deponieren, damit sie verfügbar sind, wenn ein Ausrichten der Achsen erforderlich wird (z.B. falls

Hallo, wenn Du GANZ auf Nummer sicher gehen willst, kannst Du die Achsen neu ausrichten, wie in dem folgenden Ultimaker-Artikel sehr schön beschrieben: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017142879-How-to-align-the-axles-on-your-Ultimaker-printer Hierfür solltes Du aber vorher die passenden Kalibrierungs-Sticks drucken (Quellen sind im Artikel verlinkt). Für den ersten Blick reicht es, neben dem Schiebe-Test, den @tinkergnome schon erwähnt hat, von oben zu schauen, ob die Druckkopfachsen (die beiden Achsen, die direkt durch den Druckkopf gehen) noch senkrecht zum

Well, BEST support would be PVA, using a dual extrusion printer ;-). But if you're using a single extrusion machine, this will be difficult. Perhaps tree support? Regards

Wow, thanks for that great feedback. Happy Printing!

Hi John, I know, your question is different, but there's an official replacement, part # 2014 according to the official parts manual. UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf So it could be worth to contact your reseller. The reseller here in Germany lists it as "SPUM-CAAK-SECB" Regards

Hi, the function you're probably searching for is found in the top menu line under "Extensions" -> "Post Processing". Regards

Hi, I can't hear anything unusual or anything to be worried about. Only the switching of the right print core sounds a little harsh, so eventually you could (re)calibrate the lift switch. Regards

Hi, the suggestions of @geert_2 are very sophisticated and always worth to be thought of. But you could just use "make overhang printable" in the "experimental" section in Cura. This will lead to a 45° "ramp" at the underside of the overhanging ring and making support obsolete. Just try and refer to preview. Regards

Hi Jappey, the STL opens in Cura without any issue, I guess it opend at your Cura also, but it's so tiny that you hardly can see it on the print bed. I suppose it's generated in cm or in inch, whereas Cura uses mm. If it was generated in cm, just scale it up to 1000%. If it' in inch, I recommend the "Barbarian Plugin" from Cura marketplace, so it can be converted in mm by just a mouseklick. Regards

Richtig. War eines der Hauptfeatures von 4.8 und funktioniert auch. Grüße

I'm glad i could help.