dcschooley

Hi, Has there been any progress recently regarding a native Apple Silicon version of Cura? Reasons were given several years ago for not doing it, but I'm not sure those reasons are still valid. It would also be nice to have a Mac-standard menu bar. Thanks.

Increase the standby temperature. The problem is that the filament cools down to much. Increasing the standby temperature eliminates the problem.

What is the most reliable way to get rid of the strings in at the attached photograph? This is a 27-hour print and I have three more to do. I am going to try an ooze shield for the next one. I am already using a prime tower. I'm using Alloy 910 with Matterhackers Ionic. (Yes, the image might be upside down. I don't know why.) I have reduced the standby temperature but it didn't seem to help.

I've eliminated the problem by setting the standby temperature to 175C in Cura for the nylon.

Some time ago I requested this as an option on the S5, such that you could load brittle filaments into one of the extruders while leaving the Material Station connected for the other. I didn't get a response.

You are totally correct about designing to distribute the stress, but you can't always do that. Several years ago I was making interlocking cube-puzzles for coworkers. I was making them in either school colors or flag colors for those from overseas using high-quality PETG. Because of the way the pieces needed to lock together, there wasn't a lot of room to adjust the design, and at the time I trusted the material. The parts didn't weigh very much, but they could still break if you dropped them.

PETG might be the most overrated material on the planet. It is much more brittle than it is given credit for being. PETG is nice because the prints look good, the temperature resistance is better than PLA, and it's easier to print than ABS. The parts also break when you drop them onto a hard floor. I've seen them break when dropped onto a hard floor covered in carpet. Most of what I do is not temperature sensitive enough to require PETG over PLA/Tough PLA, so I plan to use up my PETG on test parts and then only buy PLA, Tough PLA, or ABS when I need fancy colors.

I wish I knew the answer to this. A lot depends on how you define "strength." The carbon fiber definitely does something. My overall impression is that NylonX is stiffer and harder than unfilled nylon. It might also be less dense. NylonG (glass filled) is similar but not entirely the same. I don't know how much of this is due to the composition of the fill vs. the composition of the nylon. My formal training in materials science consists of a single undergraduate course decades ago. From what I do remember, adding particles will have some sort of impact because the polymer molecules in the nylon will have to rearrange themselves differently due to the presence of the little bits of carbon (or glass.) The problem with much of the testing you see on the internet is you don't know the composition of the nylon used in the composite. You can also make the argument that the mere presence of some sort of added particles might be more important than the composition, i.e., carbon fiber vs. glass. From my experience, in terms of stiffness, which is just one measure of strength: NylonX/NylonG > Ultimaker Nylon/910 > Matterhackers PRO nylon > Taulman 645/Bridge Ultimaker Nylon and Taulman 910 appear to be very similar and are nearly as stiff as the composites, but that is based on my part designs. Someone else might get different results. I like to print the same parts in different materials just to see how they do. I really need to do some more formal testing.

Matterhackers NylonX (carbon-fiber + nylon) s good stuff. You will need to use a brim, and I wouldn't recommend a flexible build plate for large parts. Small parts are ok. Remember that you will need a hardened nozzle to print CF- and fiberglass-reinforced materials. Ultimaker clear nylon, followed by the black, makes the best looking nylon parts I've ever seen.

Definitely try nylon. Taulman Alloy 910 is great if you are good with basic black or natural/transparent. I like Matterhackers PRO nylon if you want color. The Matterhackers stuff is a bit more flexible, I think. I love nylon. It can take a while to get adhesion dialed in. Magigoo PA works well on glass. You might need a brim depending on which type of nylon you are using.

I'm having the exact same problem. Have you found a solution? I've found that you don't need to remove the Bowden tube or cut anything. Just let the core heat back up.

I have a problem with Ultimaker Nylon on my S5 w/Material Station where the printer complains about the material getting stuck in the nozzle at the end of the print. The prints are fine. The problem occurs during cool-down when the printer tries to retract the material from the nozzle. The nylon is definitely getting stuck because the gears grind out a chunk of filament. I think it is a temperature issue because when I go through the requested process, the nylon comes out of the nozzle just fine, even though I don't remove the Bowden tubes or anything; I just confirm I've done everything as asked even though I didn't actually do anything. I have had this happen a time or two in the past with other materials, but it is consistent with the nylon. I am going to increase the standby temperature just in case that helps.

Thank you. Your answer is what I was looking for. I had been indecisive about several materials, but I am going use UM's nylon. One thing I have noticed is that I'm more likely to run into situations where the hobbed gear chews out a bit of the filament and the filament quits moving. It's usually preceded by the material failing to unload from the hot end at the end of the print. This results in the next print not starting properly because the nylon doesn't extrude. The prints where the material fails to unload are fine. I think what is happening is that the nylon is getting slightly stuck in the hot end because it is cooling too much at the end of the print and this causes the hobbed gear to chew up the filament. I clear it up by following the steps on the display, but not really. I let the hot end heat up and then the nylon retracts just fine. I lie to the printer by not actually removing any of the tubing. This is on an S5 with a Material Station. Any ideas?

Has anyone done any comparisons of the strength of Ultimaker nylon relative to some of the others? There are lots of comparisons of different nylons, but I haven't found one where somebody compared Ultimaker's nylon to the others. The composition Ultimaker nylon appears to be similar to ColorFabb PA Neat and Polymer PolyaMide coPA, both of which have reputations for being good materials. Alloy 910 and the Matterhackers composites are what I'm interested in comparing against.

I've had good luck with Matterhackers NylonX. I've also used NylonG, although that's not carbon fiber. Adhesion to the bed takes some work. I use a flexible Garolite surface with PVA glue and I always use a brim.