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  1. I just found and will try "minimum layer time". It was at 5 s, moved to 20 s. I have this site to thank: https://rigid.ink/pages/ultimate-troubleshooting-guide#overheating-14
  2. When I have a print that finished with very little material per layer, the end often gets botched. My hypothesis is that layers are printed on top of a layer that did not have time to solidify enough. Does that make sense? Where is the Cura setting to prevent that from happening?
  3. I'm in the process of setting my Ultimaker 2+ print head back together. The manual mentions a print head alignment aid, see below. I don't have that tool. Can I get a precise enough distance, so that I can measure with a caliper when I should stop tightening? Or if that's a bad idea, print such a "print head alignment aid"?
  4. The threading tool did not remove anything from the block! Maybe it's the original piece that is threaded too tight? (comparing to standard). The manufacturer (3D Solex) recommended through their retailer that I'd force the hot end isolator on the new block. I was afraid that I'd break the isolator, but I hadn't many other things to try. After an hour, I could screw the two together. The thread looks more like the original now.
  5. This is an Olsson block from the land of fjords (Norway). I'm not sure where they manufacture though. I've got a threading tool, I'll get to work on it right now.
  6. So, I purchased a new heater, it was on my desk 20 hours after the transaction 😮 That's quick. However, I cannot screw the new heater onto the hot end isolator. Looking closely, it seems that the threading is the issue. The new heater is on the left, the threading has the correct spacing but it thicker. This is tiresome.
  7. You both make sense. Is the Olsson nozzle tool the ruby wrench? I didn't know it was called ruby. I bought it separately, still using the stock nozzles that came with the printer. I'll get the real Olsson block as replacement part, thanks for the hint.
  8. Oh, but the nozzle didn't buldge either when it was at 210 degrees! I didn't try as hard (only with the nozzle tool, and a little with the wrench) though. I suppose I might have had better luck if warm, I'll never now. Anyway, I have thread extractors on the way already, I'll make sure to heat the block before the next attempt. When you mention ruby, do you mean the nozzle? This is (was) a brass only nozzle. I have no intention to get a ruby nozzle, only a new heating block.
  9. Do you mean that the solex isn't a pop-in replacement, but requires additional modifications?
  10. I got a nozzle stuck in my Ultimaker 2+'s Olsson block. I broke my nozzle tool trying to remove it. I then wore off the hex shape of the nozzle with a wrench. Still stuck. I decided the nozzle was dispensable and tried with violence to get it out of the heater block. The nozzle head came off, but the tail remained in the block. Looking closely at the remains and the nozzle hole in the heating block, I'm still not sure how the nozzle could get stuck this hard. Do you see anything strange with these?
  11. oh, yeah! I realize now the thin faces were not really parallel! Sorry about that. I guess "Lay flat" chose the largest of the thin faces, and that's why it looked like it worked better. I think it looks right for you @burtoogle, because it might depend on where you exactly click when selecting the face. Still, I don't get that "Lay flat" managed to place all the "not really parallel" faces flat on the build plate anyway. It looks right after that.
  12. Here comes. I reported an issue on github too, I figured too late that it might be a better place to do it. Should we stop the discussion here and continue there, or the opposite?
  13. I love the idea behind "Select face to align to the build plate", but it doesn't seem to go all the way. I noticed that because the skirt on my print didn't go around the whole part, it went through the middle. The model directly after opening: After "Select face to align to the build plate", seen from below. The face is not completely red, only half of it seems to be touching the build plate: After "Lay flat": This is how I expect the downward face to look like after "Select face to align to the build plate". Is thi
  14. I'm trying to update the FW of my Ultimaker 2+. In earlier versions I only had to connect the printer with USB and start Cura. Now in Cura 4.5.0, the printer is not detected. The FW update dialog says: "Could not perform firmware update, no printer connected", or something like that. OS is Debian buster. The arduino pops up in lsusb. Any clue what is going on, and how I can solve it? I have tried a couple of cables, the printer does turn off and on a couple of times after connecting USB.
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