GregValiant
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Posts posted by GregValiant
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You know your machine, but at 195 you're 15° cooler than I would have printed it. I'll assume PLA which isn't known for warping. It can warp if bed adhesion is weak, or if there is a draft from a heat register (or somewhere) blowing at the printer. I see the bed is at 60 and that's OK, are you using anything as an adhesion promoter (hairspray or glue stick)? Are you using a glass bed?
But yes, it could just be a fingerprint or something on the bed.
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Sorry, I don't know the x3g routine. It would seem reasonable that Cura would simply convert the gcode from text to binary (or hex or Latin) rather than adding or removing commands. The fact that the hot end temp falls off is odd. When I pre-heat the bed and hot end together, as the gcode runs (like the previous post) the printer knows to wait for the bed to heat up but nothing tells it to turn the hot end off so it just keeps heating, or floats at print temp, until it's own heating instructions show up. At that point it swings into the print.
In the Cura Marketplace there is a plugin for additional printer settings. You might want to load that and see if anything jumps out.
@ghostkeeper wrote the x3g writer for Cura. Maybe he can take a look at this and make a suggestion.
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In the main Cura window click on your printer name and choose Manage Printers then select Machine Settings. On the left are the basic settings and one of them is Gcode Flavor. Plain old Marlin should do.
I'm not home and can't access my printer but in the Ender I think Volumetric is under Filament. I have CRS disease and can't really recall. The printer and Cura need to match or one will be thinking mm³ and the other is thinking plain mm. Usually (if this is the problem) it's the printer that got inadvertently set to volumetric and under-extrusion is the result.
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Oh, my bad. I did take the 1.75 for granted.
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Hello,
You have a complicated Z system and I think you need to visit it.
You have dual Z motors. Each is attached to the frame at 3 points. Those 3 points (output shaft, brass nut, top bracket) must be exactly in line or you can get binding. Additionally, that's a big frame and the X beam needs to travel freely without binding or wobbling. It's a juggling act to get them all working together.
My Ender is a single lead screw without a top support. It needed 0.3mm of shim behind the Z motor mount to make the lead screw straight up and down. Your top brackets complicate things.
I guess what I would do is put a book or something on the bed to support the cross beam, and take out the screws that hold the brass nuts to the cross beam bracket. Take measurements of the distance from the left upright to the top of the lead screw, and from the left upright to the bottom of the lead screw right above the motor. They should be the same. If they aren't, you may need some shims to insure that the lead screw is parallel to the adjacent upright. You will need to do the same thing for the right lead screw. (The left measurement doesn't have to be equal to the right measurement.) Then when you put the brass nuts back in place and put their screws back in, they should fit nicely with no binding.
Dry lubricants are recommended for the lead screws. You can get them at an auto-parts store or hardware store. It wouldn't hurt to lube the rods, but if they pick up dirt and dust you will get a binding problem again.
Dual lead screws need to be clocked correctly. They need to pick up the X beam at exactly the same time. That can be as simple as loosening the coupler set screws and turning each lead screw to take up any backlash and then re-tightening the set screws.
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Double check your Cura Machine Settings and make sure that your Gcode Flavor is NOT "Marlin(Volumetric)". Then check your printer firmware and make sure Volumetric Extrusion is turned off there as well. In my Ender that setting is called "E in mm/3".
There are a lot of Flow settings in Cura. If you search for "Flow" you can double check that they are all at 100%.
If the Extruder Steps/mm are out-of-calibration then under or over extrusion can result. Since you have tried to increase the flow (from the LCD?) that probably isn't the issue.
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Diabolical is the correct word.
Tree supports. Everywhere. No Support Interface. XY distance as close as you dare. No Support Z distance.
And a .2 nozzle at .12 layer height.
And cooling. A lot of cooling.
I have never used the "Lift Head" setting but for this one I think 20 second minimum layer time and "Lift Head".
I am not at home and so cannot print this to check my theory. I am curious about it...and where we can find the demon who came up with it.
Greg of Orvieto
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I'm going to vote for the glue solution. You would need to alter the model by slicing it in half edgewise. Then put two 2.2mm diameter holes in the backside of the black part, but not through to the show side. With the part loaded in Cura, make a copy and then mirror the copy. Print. The skull will be raised and the hidden 2.2mm holes would be against the bed.
Cut two pieces of filament 5mm long and super-glue them into the 2.2mm holes in one part. Trim them short. Super-glue the two halves together. The filament becomes the locating pins to "clock" the pieces. You can use paper spring-clips as little clamps. If this was an automotive assembly, the locating pins would be non-symmetrically placed. We used to call it dummy-proof. The Japanese believe that nothing can be made proof from a dummy so they call it poka-yoke ("Avoiding Inadvertent Errors"). In any event it would be good if the big holes lined up.
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You can load an STL directly with Cura. No intermediary is required.
What Torgeir (so indelicately) said that I missed is that Cura uses the X and Y dimensions you have in the Machine Settings to determine the build plate size. When you open an STL in Cura, it is supposed to come in with it's own XY center of geometry at the center point of the build plate, and with the lowest surface resting on the build plate.
Some software (Fusion 360?) can sometimes alter an STL file and introduce it's own coordinate system. That can cause Cura to put the model somewhere other than the center point.
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Right click on the build plate and pick "Select All Models". In the toolbox on the left of the main Cura window - the top tool is the movement tool. Select it and set the X Y and Z all to zero and then use the tab key to adjust the last change. The model should move to the center of the Cura build plate.
Not all STL files are created equal. Some have extraneous crap floating around that causes oddities in a slicer. Torgier's suggestion really should have worked but with the X and Y also being off, maybe that benchy file has an issue.
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Line 91904 sets the printer to absolute E and then line 91907 tells the extruder to move to -5. All it can do is what it's told. If it has to move 4000 to get there, then that's what it does.
You still might want to add the G92 E0 line in the End-Gcode just before the M84. If you checked and found the Octo End Script empty, and later it had a script, it might add it back in again under certain conditions.
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I have no idea. It's under construction and I think they started with an earlier version (maybe 4.6?) and built on top of that.
If you save your file using "File | Save Project" it should keep all the settings for you. When you open it in Arachne most should transfer over.
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The Arachne version of Cura was pre-released a month or so ago for testing because it's a whole new thing. It uses variable line width so it will fit better into features like your chamfer. Instead of jumping from .4mm wide to .2mm wide it might start at .4, adjust the line width to make a layer that is .3mm wide and then drop to .2 for the finish. It's a bit buggy but you can find it here in one of SanderVG's posts on the main forum page. It may give you the added strength you need.
Another alternative might be to consider mixing up some epoxy and painting it on. It would enhance the layer adhesion that seems to be a problem with the super narrow point.
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1 hour ago, maurosacchi said:
Thanks for the suggestions. What coating do you have in mind? Epoxy? Is there a specific product and if yes, what filament should I use with it to achieve the end result I am looking for?
The coating might be as simple as spray paint. It is dependant on the material it has to bond to. Whatever material you decide on will determine the coating used. It would be best to consult with the manufacturer as to what coatings would be compatible with the product.
So the dive belt has a pre-existing carrier that requires a specific diameter to fit? A domed end avoids the exterior corner and would be stronger. You might need a cradle to hold them upright when you set them on a table.
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I do believe you are correct sir.
Their first attempts will be the dog, cat, and pig included with the printer. The STL files for those three were exceptionally fine and sliced by professionals using Simplify3D. They print flawlessly. Then those new printer owners start downloading poor STL files from Thingiverse or someplace. They don't know how to slice, the prints are a mess, so they ask for help on Reddit or Facebook and change everything on their printer. The predictable result is that the printer doesn't work right either. All of that will be somebody else's fault - including some random slicer (ahem!) that they downloaded for free.
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I have to work in compatibility mode as this old laptop doesn't support OpenGL 4.1.
When I open the 3mf file, Support is not enabled. Enabling support, and leaving the part with the legs down, I don't get that center post. There is nothing above in that orientation and it isn't required. I looked at emare's image and rotated the part 180 (a lot less wasted material that way). With the legs in the air, that inside support is required for the roof of the counterbore.
Here it is as the 3mf file shows. You can see to the bottom of the front hole and no support was generated. Given that in mariuscapitanu's original 3mf file opens with Supports off, maybe non of his settings were included and I ended up using whatever was set in my install.
Greg_Legs UP_part3_model_r_0(1)(1).3mf Greg_Legs down_part3_model_r_0(1)(1).3mf
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That support is there to hold up the flat roof of the counterbore. Since it comes up from the build plate "Touching Buildplate" won't turn it off. I did get a support blocker to work. It has to cover the bottom of the bolt hole (which is a roof in the inverted print orientation). The reason it is so skinny is the X/Y distance is 1.0. Setting the X/Y distance to 0.4 you can see that it is supporting the roof. In the image below I have a support blocker on the left rear leg, and X/Y distance is .4, and I changed the support type to Concentric so you could see it better. (Cura 4.8).
This is with Normal supports. Tree supports are similar. I am unable to duplicate the unnecessary supports that @emare shows. I assume it is also a setting...but then I lost interest.
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The problem may also be in the transition between the single line width for the sharp end, and the point where it becomes 2 line widths.
I wonder if slicing with the Arachne version would be a better choice? It is variable line width and might result in the print being closer to the model as it moves up the chamfer.
How sharp do you really need the end to be? You may be able to live with it just not printing the problem layers. I printed some cookie cutters for Christmas and used .8 wall and a .4 nozzle all the way up the side walls. They worked fine.
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Using the LCD
Auto-Home the print head.
Move the nozzle 5mm in from the left edge of the build surface and 5mm in from the front of the build surface.
With the Z at 0 select "Set Home Offsets" on the LCD.
Select "Save Settings".
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No. The G28 sends the print head to the end stop switches. M206 sets the home offsets.
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Not in the gcode. It's part of setting up the printer.
The LCD has an Auto-Home command and a Set Home Offsets command. That's what I was talking about using. You really need to do that. It insures that Cura and your printer are on the same page. It has nothing to do with the start-up gcode.
The purge line is fine to use. Regarding the skirt, the default in Cura is 10mm from the print. If you change the skirt distance to 2 you can fit larger models in.
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These are just some random thoughts...
The typical printing materials are fond of water. I'm guessing that would be a downside so if you can get something with a low affinity for water, that would be a prime consideration. It may be why Delrin was picked over something like Nylon. A prototype for initial pressure testing could be made from something cheaper(?)
Among other things, "Layer Adhesion" will play a part in water-tightness. Maybe a coating over the print?
I would make the bottom of the vessel a dome. The print will be weaker than any traditional solid part. A domed bottom would enhance it's strength in at least that area. Taking that further, I'd think about an ovoid as well. Egg shapes bear up well to uniform external pressure. The inside could still be cylindrical.
Put the battery in and fill it with dielectric oil? I think any infilled volume would still end up near 100% infill.
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The printer doesn't really need to be level to the world. It just needs to rest on a solid, flat surface. You don't want the workbench/tabletop moving in time to the printer. If it's dancing, it ain't good.
For your viewing pleasure - That star of stage and screen - Moderator @gr5 has made a video on leveling and first layer adhesion. Here he is starring as Mr. Hands in THE_VIDEO. It's a long one but it covers a lot of material.
I'm more of a reader so I'll stick you with the Marlin Gcode list. You certainly don't need to memorize it, but some codes (G28, G92, G1, G0, M104, M106, etc.) you will see all the time and having at least a passing knowledge of what they do is a good thing.
One of the functions of the printer processor is to calculate how many "steps" to send to each motor to make it move. The steps/mm need to be calibrated so that (for example) if you tell the printer to move the "X" 100mm it does indeed go 100mm. If the X and/or Y aren't calibrated correctly, you get oval holes. If the "Z" isn't calibrated correctly you get parts that end up the wrong height. If the "E" isn't calibrated correctly you get over or under extrusion. Calibrating the steppers (for most printers) is the next step after insuring that the frame is square and level.
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complete newbie that wants to do decent prints
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted · Edited by GregValiant
Among the menu options on your printer there may be one for steps/mm for the steppers. Unfortunately I don't know that it will be there and I'm not sure what it would be called. Each stepper would have it's own steps/mm and it is usually shown as X=80 Y=80 Z=400 E=93 (those are the original numbers for my Ender).
A fellow named Chep makes U-Tube videos that he calls Filament Fridays. He is pretty Creality centric, but you may find something there to help. There is another guy that makes Teaching Tech videos as well. Since your printer appears to be a Prusa clone, maybe Prusa forums could offer more help. You can understand that if the printer is told to move 100 in the X and 100 in the Y, but the Y is calibrated wrong and only moves 80, that any hole will be a horizontal oval 80% as tall as it is wide. It would end up looking like the one you printed. If you rotate that model 90° in Cura and print it in that orientation and the hole is still wider than it is tall, then it's a calibration issue.
I made some adjustments to the Cura settings in the 3mf file and then sliced it. Here are my versions of the 3mf and gcode. Your "Initial Layer Height" was .16 and is now 0.2. I lowered the bed temp from 80 to 60 and there were a few other changes (.slower print speed, lower Accel and Jerk settings, etc.).
GV_Filament_guide.gcode GV_Filament_guide.3mf