GregValiant
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Posts posted by GregValiant
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Thank you sir. Occasionally I've thought it would be nice to be able to collapse the bar to the right (to give the model area more screen space). I'll settle for drag and park off-screen for now. It's my bad that I never thought to mention it.
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Something to play with in the morning...
Printed with 4.8 and horizontal expansion at .02 on the left. Arachne with line width at .35 on the right. .4 nozzle at .2 layer height. Ender 3 Pro.
Measuring thickness - the Arachne print is .65 and the 4.8 print is .91. It's hard to measure due to the bulbs on the ends of the lines. The Arachne print has a line missing about 2/3 up and isn't as neat. That could be the printer's fault as there isn't much material flow in that part. The 4.8 print with more material in it and does look better. Minimum layer speed 5mm/sec. Using "Lift Head" made a mess.
PS: @gr5, @ahoeben, Horizontal Expansion of .02 makes the wall .44 thick. Scaling 102% makes it .408 thick. Line width changes and Print Thin Walls didn't have any effect. It's a fussy little bugger.
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Surface makes it thicker (0.8?). I haven't been happy with any setting combinations.
Scaling it to 102% worked. Remember to set the bottom back on the build plate.
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The model is good. I suppose you have a reason for not printing them lying down.
@gr5 - take a look here. I get the same results as Curasurf and am unable to get the tree supports to support the slot roofs on the other side of the model.
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I wonder if there is a problem with the model and Cura thinks the tree supports should be from that side when in fact they are growing through a wall?
If it isn't a proprietary part - post the STL.
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That is a very odd result. The tree should grow from the build plate and not the part.
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In "Special Modes" you have "One at a time" selected. Change that to "All at Once".
If you use One at a Time, Cura checks the height of the model and if it is taller than the "gantry" height it won't slice it. Cura figures that the X beam will crash into a part. The blue rectangle about 25mm above the build plate is the clue.
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You can ty it with tree supports to see how it looks. Without support that roof won't print correctly.
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It happens sometimes with Blender and with Sketchup. Inventor and Fusion don't seem to have the issue. I don't know Blender, but it's possible there are options for the STL Export Utility.
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In Blender, double check the scale you are modeling at. It might be 1 meter instead of 1mm.
If you see just a shadow then the model is WAAAYYY up in the Z. Right click on the build plate and select "Select all Models". Select the "Movement" tool at the top of the left toolbar and change all the dimensions to "0". The model should drop to the plate and be centered.
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The end cabinets (that I suppose the drawers go into) might be able to be rotated open end up so they don't need support on the inside.
When printing things with large flats on the build plate you can often get by with a skirt instead of using brims. They use less material and don't need to be trimmed off while still getting the flow going. So I would do the legs as a separate print with a brim (so they don't fall over), and the rest of the stuff with just a skirt.
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In addition to gr5's suggestions you want the belts to "twang like the strings on a bass guitar". If they're loose they can jump on those pulleys you just tightened and cause that layer shift.
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I started printing this Bender head with silky silver and the visor part came out great. When I tried to print the front half of the head the printer struggled and then the layer adhesion jumped up and bit me when I cut off the supports. I gave up and used whatever I grabbed and painted it silver. It looks alright painted, but I wanted that silky finish. .4 nozzle by the way. I haven't tried with the .6 yet.
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Urethane needs 100 to 200°C to cure. Hotter cures faster. The ones I was involved with (cutting CNC paths) were aluminum molds and cured on heated tables. Come to think of it some used urethane molds poured around a "hob" (a part machined to pre-shrink dimensions) so a mold printed in ABS might work.
Actually, a phone call to a rubber and plastics outfit and "Hey, how much for a thousand of these" might go a long way. You could pick the material specs too. I'm pretty sure you could beat the $3.50/pc. price all to hell since you don't need the brass.
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I think the ones I've used were compression molded. Have you considered making a multi-cavity mold and pouring them out of 80-90 durometer urethane?
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I think there is a problem with the model. The text appears OK as @fvrmr says, but the pins don't look right. The left model is from your 3mf file and the right is repaired using NetFabb. On your model you can see that there is a counterbore from the backside (it has support inside in the image). It is deep enough to make the pin portion disconnect from the base feature. That won't work because even if they printed (doubtful) they would fall off. The repaired model shows the pins connected to the base feature. The pins are essentially solid on the repaired model. The infill occurs due to the wall count = 3. I'm attaching the repaired file. Take a look because I'm not sure how it's supposed to be.
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My pleasure.
"I don't know why but here's how to fix it." never sits well with me. I like to know the "why".
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It isn't the model per se (which is watertight), but it might be the way it was modeled. I was using .4 nozzle and line width, .2 layer height. All 3 images are layer 9. My only change was wall thickness. 2 then 3 then 4 loops.
This is at 0.8 walls. The infill is into the door area. There are open rectangles throughout the wall.
This is at 1.2 walls. The infill has retreated from the door. Note that the holes in the wall have turned into filled rectangles with the lines running at [0,90]. Subsequent layers cover the fancy rectangles.
This one is 1.6 walls. It's what I would have expected for any wall thickness.
Are there some artifacts in the model that might be leftover from combining/intersecting/cutting operations in the CAD program? Why does changing the wall thickness have an effect on shapes away from the walls?
EDIT: I was working with the STL file. I achieved the same results with the 3mf file.
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When I opened it I couldn't figure out what was going on. I still don't know but I finally found a couple of parts.
After deleting everything but one "TopBackLeft" (there were several) I got it to the plate but it wasn't flat. Using the Rotate Tool "Lay Flat" command and it showed up in a printable position.
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I have a nice system for these situations. It is powered by two of the printer stepper motors so they must function. It requires a table the same height as the window sill, and two pulleys (one to open the window and the other to drag the printer over the sill). The system was designed with PencilCAD so no translation software is necessary (though you will appreciate that Email won't work).
There is one constraint regarding printer defenestration: A first floor window above a flower garden doesn't work well. A 10th floor window above a concrete parking lot is very satisfying (unless your supervisors Ferrari is parked below).
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From 6 to 80 eh? That's a better bloat ratio than Microsoft!
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I've made several posts here about using Pause at Height. The main thing is that you have to set it to "Layer" and not height. If there are Z-hops in the file then Pause at Height "by Height" can be fooled because the Z keeps jumping up and down. A layer is a layer except that in a gcode file layers start at 0 and in Cura they start at 1. So if you look at the Cura preview and see you want to stop at layer 10, in the plugin you would put layer 9.
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I don't know and I truly hope I never have to find out. Try posting a question on the GitHub site.
Sidebar GUI for Cura 4
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
All that time typing and all I had to say was thank you.