GregValiant
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Posts posted by GregValiant
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You may have to do some experimentation. Nothing in the Gcode will hurt the printer, but it may not understand a command and it will just sit there. This first suggestion uses the code from the Matter Hacker file plus a couple of lines that I threw in:
;Custom Pulse XE start GCODE
G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107 ; fan off
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start heating the bed
M104 S160 ; start heating the hot end but not all the way yet
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M109 S160 ;Wait for the hot end
; settings from the Matter Hacker start_gcode
G28 ; home all axes
M280 P0 S160 ;Reprap command that appears to set stepper motor 0 (the Z?) to 160 degrees rotation
G4 P400 ;Marlin Dwell command 400micro-seconds
M280 P0 S90 ;stepper 0 to 90 degreesG80 ;Bed Leveling Marlin uses G29 or M420. According to the RepRap site nobody uses G80 but it's in Cura.
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;wait for the hot end to finish heating
G1 X5 Y5 Z3.01 F1800
G92 E-5 ; Set the extruder so the first move to E0 results in a prime.
;End of Start GCODEIt's ended up a hybrid of what was in the Matter Hacker file, and what was in the Cura file. I'm wondering about the commands in bold type. They are the ones that I expect may need some experimenting. Copy your existing start gcode from Cura into a text file so it doesn't get lost. Then Copy the above snippet and make it the new start Gcode in Cura. Slice something small like a calibration cube and see how it goes. If it hangs the printer, you'll have to power off to reset it. If it works you can abort the print and smile.
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Sister Mary Josephine is going to be very disappointed in me.
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There is some contradictory stuff going on. First and foremost is to figure out what firmware you are actually running. Do you know? It looks like Matter Hacker took Marlin firmware and added their own commands from RepRap firmware.
Secondly, does your printer have Auto Bed Leveling?
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Anything with a semi-colon (;) in front is a comment and is ignored by the printer. That ";Home all axes" is just for someone reading the code. The spelling error ("axes" instead of "axis") doesn't matter.
In the end gcode, the line "M84 X Y E" turns off those steppers and they lose position anyway. If the Z gets turned off some machines will float down and the nozzle can hit the print.
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You can see that there are now two G28's. You only need one.
It doesn't matter if it's automatic or manual - when you power off the printer it always loses track of where it is. That is why the G28 must be in there to send the 3 axis to their switches to tell the printer it is at Home position.
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I look at it like I'm 19 hrs ahead. I hate being in somebodies rearview.
I open your original 3mf file
Change all Line Widths to .40
Click on the Fx button next to the Wall Line Count number. It changes to "2" but "Wall Thickness" becomes accessible.
Click on Wall Thickness and change it to .40 and now Wall Line Count should be "1".
Change Extra Prime Amount to 0.
Slice.
And that should be it. 19gr.
Slicing tolerance should be "Middle". That setting can produce some odd results when it's either Inclusive or Exclusive.
You can download your original STL file from your post on page 1 of this thread. That way we save the postage and you know it's the one we started on.
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No, it should go into the StartUp Gcode. Let's do a test though to make sure.
In Manage Printers select "Add".
Click on Non-Networked Printers and scroll down to Creality3D and expand it.
Select Ender 3 Pro in the left list and on the right side of the dialog change the name to something unique "ProX" or something.
After adding you'll end up back at the StartUp Gcode. Take a look and see if it matches your original 3Pro. The G28, Heaters, and Purge lines should be there.
There are other settings that can be missed if you add the printer as a "CustomFFF" printer. Settings like the build plate size and print head size that are specific to a machine.
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Yes. It's the point of the 3mf format to provide another person with the Whole Enchilada.
I went back to Gazzer's original 3mf file.
With "Retraction Extra Prime Amount" set to 1.3 the model is 30gr. Change it to 0, and the model is 19gr.
You might need it to print, but apparently Cura is adding the amount of plastic to the weight of the model when the reality is that the extra prime is compensating for portions of an extrusion that your printer would be running dry on. Their should be no weight gain in your situation.
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“Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach him how to fish and you feed him for a lifetime” - Lao Tzu
And that's why the "Yes" is a link.
When you installed the printer in Cura the Start-Gcode and End-Gcode should have been installed with it. Did you install the Ender from the list of "non-networked" printers? It's a non-BLTouch start gcode but it has the Heat Up code and Purge lines in it.
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Do you still have the older version of Cura loaded? You could go into the new "plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts" folder and rename PauseAtHeight.py. Then go to the old version and copy the older version of PauseAtHeight.py into the 4.8 Scripts folder. When you restart Cura the old one should show up instead of the one you don't like.
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Professional.
The problem with the nozzle gap usually shows up much earlier than it did on your "cup" print. About an hour give or take. Then the constant retractions pull plastic up into that gap and cause a partial blockage. Because the print got so far it never occurred to me that it might be a problem.
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Thanks @tinkergnome. I'm Crippled by Compatibility Mode.
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Either the Z-hops are in the Gcode but aren't being acted on by the printer, or they aren't in the Gcode.
Post a gcode file that shows the problem and post that STL as well. I have a macro for Excel that I can tweak to point to where retractions should happen but maybe aren't. I'll slice the STL later and see how things go using my generic profile.
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When a part is exported from it's native CAD software as an STL file it can be from coarse to very fine resolution. The resolution is usually an option in the exporter. When you print a cylinder with coarse resolution you can see the facets around the circumference. The length of the lines that Cura calculates to go around a curve are dictated by the size of the polygons in the model. Big coarse polygons, coarser print and small fine polygons mean a finer print.
As far as what the printer can handle, you may be able to make an adjustment to the Maximum Resolution setting in Cura. For my Ender 3 Pro the default in Cura 4.7.1 was .05mm. That was too fine for the printer to handle and caused blobs. It's much happier at .5 resolution. In 4.8.0 that has been resolved by making the default .8.
I don't understand your term "global tolerance in Cartesian system". Generally, if you make your parts multiples of the layer height tall (the Z) they will be more accurate. If your part is 93.75mm tall and your layer height is .2 then the final dimension can't be hit exactly. But if you can live with a part 93.8mm tall and design it that way, then it should end up real close.
The X and Y are different. Cura builds up to the outer wall and leaves the inside as whatever dimension is left over. 93.75 wide with a line width of .44 and 3 walls should end up at 93.75 wide. The walls will be .44 * 3 on each side and the interior will be whatever is left. Thin walled models are different because there isn't any inside area to take up the slack. The new Arachne version that is being worked on addresses that. Using Adaptive layer heights can help make adjustments in the Z.
Acceleration control places a limit on the acceleration of the print head and of the bed. The higher the acceleration, the faster printing will be. The cost is hard stops and starts where any sloppiness in the drive train will result in vibrations and target over-runs ending up in the print. Jerk is in mm/sec and an analogy would be to think of it as how fast you go around a corner. With Accel and Jerk control turned off the print head basicly tries to come to a stop, and take off again instantaneously.
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Foul...Foul. Torgeir you cheated. The line width rule was violated. You thought nobody would notice didn't you? Ha. I hereby declare myself the winner.
Since we're talking airplane parts and since it took two days and four of us to figure it out, I think we should get the government (I don't care whose) to give us vast amounts of money for further development. We'll call it an F-35 Sopwith Inductatron. With a flashy name that nobody understands the potential market could be huge.
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Line width x wall line count = wall thickness. If you change the line width then change the wall line count then wall thickness will be grayed out because it was calculated. Wall line count must be a whole number.
It is not possible to mess up one of my profiles. They come that way.
Detroit and now retired and in Venice, FL.
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"why are we in this hobby I wonder"
It teaches us several things. Among those things are: Patience, Persistence, and Anger Management. In addition, it has helped me develop several new swear words.
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What printer? and what firmware? It looks like you added the printer as a custom FFF is that correct? Then you may need to customize the Pause at Height. You can open it in Notepad.
In your Cura folder "...\Plugins\PostProcessingPlugins\Scripts" is PauseAtHeight.py. Near the end of that file is a line: prepend_gcode += self.putValue(M = 8
2) + " ;switch back to absoluteE values\nIf you were to change it like this:
prepend_gcode += self.putValue(M = 83) + " ; relative E values\n
I think you would get what you want as far as the extrusion mode goes.
There is also this line:
pause_command = {
"marlin": self.putValue(M = 0),if you were to change the 0 to 226 it would then insert what you want.
You could also use the Search and Replace plugin to change all M0's in the file to M226's.
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A Gcode file is a text file. If you open it in Cura you can view it but you can't edit it. Use Windows Notepad to open it and then you can make changes and save it.
You can pick a printer that is similar to yours and then make changes to the machine settings (bed size, firmware flavor, machine name, etc).
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What is a "live feed" of a print?
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1. Take a day off.
2. Watch gr5's video.
3. Take another day off.
4. Try leveling again. It does two things. It places the bed so that the nozzle is always at the same distance. It determines where "0" Z is. That is the part that people find difficult. I use parchment paper but a thin store receipt would work as well.
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Finally, I figured it out. Your last picture shows the problem perfectly. It's your build surface. You've got it on glass backwards!
New user; Start/end code adjustments needed
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by GregValiant
I edited the previous post.