GregValiant
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Posts posted by GregValiant
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I can just make out the flat area on the bottom and that looks like there are ridges between the nozzle marks. I'd say it's over-extruded. The walls, I don't know. It looks to be a mechanical problem. Down low on the right - is that a layer shift? Layer shifting is often caused by loose belts. They should twang like a guitar string.
If you aren't using Accel and Jerk control - turn both on and set Accel to 400 for everything and Jerk to 8 for everything. You may have to unhide all the settings. There are a lot of Accel settings and Travel Acceleration and Initial Layer Travel Acceleration don't update automatically. Softer starts and stops may help.
Another thing to check is if there is any wobble in the print head. It should roll back and forth and you should not be able to rotate it around any axis. Same with the Y table. You may have to revisit the eccentric adjusters to make sure.
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I fooled around and got it to 19grams with the internal ribbing intact. However, that was with my Ender 3Pro as the active machine. As soon as I switched it to the CR-10 the weight jumped up. Here is the 3mf with my machine active.
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You've both gone way beyond me now. The best I did was to be able to look over my shoulder for landing so the controls wouldn't act reversed. I'd still stick it in the occasional tree though. The first day at the flight field for sefety inspection of my Sig Kadet, the inspector looking at it said "Some of us are builders and some of us are flyers. I can see you're a builder.". Time proved him right.
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I always wanted to build an F-16. A beautiful plane. I never got around to it though. It would have had to be a ducted fan back then since the real jets hadn't come out yet.
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I'm not seeing a hole for a ducted fan.
45 years ago - the Gee Bee Model D Sportster. I flew it once and got it back on the ground. It was terribly nose heavy from the poor quality balsa in the kit. It was way cheaper to crash a U-control.
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Well then there is a calculation error somewhere. I wonder about the 1.24gr/cm3 that is being used as the filament density. If you were to weigh 416mm of filament it should weigh 1.24 grams. That's Detroit school math though. You'll want to check it.
I don't know what to tell you. I did the math on a hand calculator and came up with the same numbers. An internet search comes up with the density of 1.24gr/cm3 the same as Cura uses. Cura knows how far it's traveling and extruding. It knows the layer height and line width. Pretty simple math after that.
I had about 6 U-control planes. I'd fly them until they all fit in a 5 gallon bucket. Then I'd spend a couple weeks rebuilding. They all had "silhouette" fuselages and there was one that would always shear the wings perfectly at the fuselage on a nose plant (I was good at nose plants!). I kept having to make the those wings shorter and shorter until finally it just wouldn't fly. Later in life I got into RC but I didn't fly any better. I was excellent at repairs.
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Changing it to spiralize gets rid of the internal structure. That results in a 17gram print.
I sent the STL up to NetFabb and the repaired model doesn't have the internal ribbing. It comes out at 16grams in regular mode with your settings. So it looks like that internal structure is adding the weight.
Sliced in 4.6.1 I get the same 30 gram weight.
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It has it's own internal ribbing. I'm guessing that's the "non-watertight" complaint from Cura. The slicing looks good.
The density of the PLA is 1.24grams/cm3 in Cura. Cura says the print will use 10meters of 1.75 filament. I get 29.82 grams for the 10 meters.
Assuming that Cura is correct at 10 meters of filament (I don't think it would miss that) that's how much it's going to weigh. Throwing out the skirt isn't make much of a difference either.
Since the plane would not fly well with a tip missing, I suggest you print the part and weigh it.
There was a DC3 flying the hump during WWII that crashed on landing. One wing was damaged. The ground crew had a replacement wing for a DC2 so they stuck it on the DC3. The older wing was 10 feet shorter. They flew it the rest of the war like that.
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Yep. 30 grams at 0% infill. It is what it is. I changed material to "generic" PLA. The weight stayed at 30grams.
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If you load the model and go to "File | Save Project" you will get a 3mf file. Post that here because without knowing your settings we'd be talking apples and oranges.
That particular model is "not watertight" and "...and consists of 19 sub-meshes".
Just playing with it, at .4 nozzle, .2 layer height, 1 bottom layer, Spiralize mode, I get 16grams in 4.8.0.
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No M207, M208, M209 in the gcode? They would be setting firmware retraction.
PLA is fairly fresh? Water in the PLA can make it soupy. The low printing temperature may point to that. Is that silky PLA? I've had trouble with that as well. It seems to soak up water faster than regular PLA (but I'm in a humid environment).
Increase the Max Retraction Count up to 100. This falls under "can't hurt".
That's about it for me.
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Let's start at the beginning.
What type of computer?
What version of Cura?
Have you installed the printer in Cura? (it isn't automatic)
Do you have a sliced model in Cura that is ready to send via the USB?
Is "Print via USB" one of the options that is available by clicking the down arrow on the slice button?
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"I cannot see them in the slicer preview at all."
That's because they aren't there. Consider that Cura would have to decide (all by itself) to add a feature, and to do it randomly, after generating the preview which is from the gcode it generates. That doesn't happen. Your lowest problem line appears to be more than one layer tall. Those things that look like dots around the top rim are also present in the upper line where you have the arrow. That's a sign of under-extrusion. You notice that when the extrusion flow is correct that the outside wall is nice and smooth. No dots. If you run your finger along that top edge I think you will feel the dots. It should be smooth. There is no setting in Cura to change the flow for "A Layer". You would need to specify the layer and the flow for that layer. It can be done, but you would need to use the Change at Z plugin, or hand code some M221 lines into the Gcode.
When there is a clog - the extruder motor struggles to push the filament through. If pushing requires more torque than the motor can deliver, it will "skip steps" and snap backwards. It is an indicator that something isn't right. It is a noise that anyone with a printer will hear from time to time...and learn to really hate.
White filament can be very difficult to dial in. It contains the most colorant and I think they use titanium oxide as the colorant (very white and used in paints). I print most PLA at 210, but white at 200.
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On 1/13/2020 at 2:30 AM, c_chan said:
I have similar case but different. I want to print multiple parts in volume. Instead spread them across the print bed, I also want to make use the Z direction so that I can increase print copy by stacking upward as well. For this reason, "raft" cannot help. Meanwhile the trick using "dot" requires to have different "dot" distance depends on which layer. Is there any way just drag the model and let it float in the air and the slicer do necessary support by its own?
Yes. As Geert_2 says, stack the parts in the design program, do a "union" and export them from there as a single model.
But you have to print the supports between layers of parts. Wouldn't "cycle time/part" go way up? How about top and bottom surface finish on the upper parts?
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Zooming in it looks like it may be intermittent under-extrusion. You might be getting a partial clog in the nozzle and then it clears itself. It's hard to tell but is the very top layer rough on the outside edge (looks like there are little points all around)?
Have you heard the extruder missing steps?
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So you've thought about it eh? You're right. How many people actually consider that though. I always go back and check that first corner just in case. It may be like wearing a belt and suspenders, but it makes me feel better.
My original crutch for leveling was to kick the Initial Layer Flow to 110%. It didn't really cause elephant foot because my leveling wasn't very good. When I switched to parchment paper (.04mm thick) it made a big difference in my consistency and I dropped the initial layer back to 100%. I tried using a feeler gauge but I didn't get the good feed back like I do with the paper. Another thing I practiced was using a wider skirt and adjusting on the fly. I got good at it, but as I say, I'm pretty consistent now.
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I've never done multiple parts in Spiral mode. If you click on "Color Scheme" at the top there, is "Travels" checked? There has to be some move for the print head to get from one work area to the next.
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Load a model into Cura and set up for slicing. Then use "File | Save Project" to create a 3mf file. It will have all the settings and your printer information along with the model. There have been ongoing issues with Macs so the Cura.Log file may be the key. You'll likely have to wait until tomorrow for a Cura Team member to take a look.
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@KronosMT could you post a snippet of the Gcode you think is causing the problem? Because the rest of this thread kinda goes all over the place and I get lost.
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I can't duplicate the problem. You are using the Octoprint plugin? Maybe there is a conflict there. In the log it looks like the first problem is with Octoprint. @ahoeben might be able to take a look. He would certainly know better than me.
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I figured since it's a new machine and yes, it absolutely matters. I would want to find out about what the board can handle in terms of memory requirements for the firmware. Creality doesn't like to tell anyone that sort of thing. You probably have the latest Creality firmware. There are different versions for 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 boards and with and without BLTouch. The download page is HERE.
I'll go back to my previous comment though. Unless there is absolutely some feature you need but that you don't currently have, I'd leave it alone. There is a different firmware required if you have an LCD screen or a TFT display. The download site doesn't explain that. If you load the wrong one you could lose features and be unable to use things like Pause at Height.
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It depends on the mainboard. I have an 8 bit board with Marlin 1.1.8 and it doesn't have enough memory to make more Marlin settings available so I can't move to 2.0 even if I wanted to. You will want your current firmware version handy in case you need to revert to it.
That being said, there is a "Marlin 2.0 bugfix" version available. I don't know whether you would have to compile it yourself or not. Neither MarlinFW.org nor their GitHub site support Creality because Creality alters the firmware to suit themselves. Your current version of 2.0 is a Creality version. The Marlin version will run on the board, but will it fit in the board? I dunno.
The only functions that I would like to have are G60 / G61. Being able to save a location and then return to it would be cool. But you need memory to incorporate a save location and my board doesn't have any to spare.
Unless there is a specific function you know exists in a different firmware version and you just can't live without that function, don't change the firmware. That is especially true if the printer is working as it should.
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A jack screw in the back will help tip it forward. Pulling it back would need a different fix.
BTW - I know PLA and those clamps you printed for the Bridgeport won't hold up to being reefed down with a 16 inch wrench.
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So you want the walls to print so you have edges to use as a dam for the plastic? I think you'll have to go in and modify the gcode. Cura puts comments into the gcode when it changes "types". Going through the last layer gcode and deleting everything that is "type:skin" should work. You could test that on a calibration cube. Make the cube 2mm tall in Cura and then alter the gcode and delete the "skin" of the top layer. That wouldn't take but a few minutes to alter and to print.
Your alternative would be to make a cut in the top surface of the model so you end up with a pocket with walls around it.
Extuder straight up and down? Adhesion layer problems ender v2
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Finally, I figured it out. Your last picture shows the problem perfectly. It's your build surface. You've got it on glass backwards!