GregValiant

Did you try "M17 E" to turn the extruder back on? Typically they will turn themselves back on when they are sent any signal from the printer processor. When they start up they don't know their own location so you might have to add a G92 E0 when they come back to life. That probably isn't required with the M221 S0 command as they aren't really being turned off.

M302 is not a setting that would typically be accessible to a user. It (should) exist within the printer to prevent cold extrusions. I can change the setting by sending an M302 S0. That's what I do when I calibrate the E-steps as I don't have to heat the hot end to get it done. M302 automatically resets when the printer is turned off. Although the E values are increasing in the Gcode, there really shouldn't be a problem with the actual print. You could pull the filament out of that extruder/hot end since you aren't using it anyway. Then if the extruder was ordered to spin it could spin to it's hearts content and it wouldn't effect anything. M17 and M18 (M18 and M84 are identical) should be understood by the printer. You would see in your ending gcode "M84 X Y E" to turn off all the motors except for the Z (to prevent the Z from drifting down). You can try putting "M18 E0" (or "M84 E0") into your startup gcode. The MarlinFW site notes that M18 will accept an extruder number (E0) but it didn't say anything in that regard to M84 which Cura and Creality routinely use. Playing with my printer it seems like entering an E0 disables the extruder. You will need to experiment.

I'm not 100% sure I understand but... If you have the pen added as a second extruder and the temperature of that extruder is set below the setting in the M302 register in the printer (or as set in the StartUp Gcode with an M302 line) then when the printer sees a line like "G1 F2100 E90" then nothing should happen. The firmware prevents the extruder from actually moving and so there shouldn't be a problem. You can set the "pen extruder" temperature to your ambient temperature and set the retraction and other numbers as needed to allow Cura to slice. You would need to lower the material standby temperature to a low number as even the default 175° (for most materials) might be above the M302 setting of the printer. The default M302 in my Ender 3 Pro is "M302 S170". If the set temperature for the "pen extruder" is M104 S25 then the printer processor simply won't allow the extruder movement. There will be a message sent to a print server (if you are using one) that would be something like "echo: cold extrusion prevented" and there might be a lot of them, but it would only be a problem if you are printing other than via an SD card. I don't know how Octoprint would react to the flood of error messages.

This post and the link it contains to a Reddit post explain why there is no Max Line Width. A lot of settings can effect how many walls you end up with. Horizontal Expansion, Hole Horizontal Expansion, Outer Wall Inset, etc. Post a project file and someone will take a look. This box has 2.4 walls and Cura is set up with a 0.6 nozzle with 0.6 Line Width.

Nice. It sounds like you have it sorted out.

You can report it on GitHub. It won't be the only bug found with tree supports (although they seem to be getting better).

It's gone. My understanding is that it was causing more problems than it solved.

@DivingDuck at that point it's in "absolute extrusion". @Shorty-CM if you don't have an ABL then you can speed things up buy running both heaters together. This starts them 10 seconds apart (to keep from stressing the mainboard with the initial current surge). ; ; StartUp Gcode ; G21 ; metric values G90 ; absolute positioning M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode M900 K0 ; disable lin. adv. if not set in GCODE M220 S100 ; Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ; Reset Flowrate M107 ; start with the fan off M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Start to heat the hot end G4 S10 ; Wait 10s for the hot end to get going M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start to heat the bed M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for hot end M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for bed G28 ; Auto-Home G1 F600 Z12.0 ; Move up 12mm G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 F1500 E15 ; extrude some filament to make sure it's up to the nozzle G1 F1500 E13 ; Short retraction G92 E0 ; Reset extruder G1 F600 Z0.3 ; drop down to purge line height G1 F1500 X5.0 Y5.0 Z0.3 ; Move to start of purge line G1 F1500 E2 ; Prime G1 X105 Y5.0 E22 F1200 ; Purge line G1 F1500 E20 ; retract a bit G92 E0 ; zero the extruder G1 F9000 X150 Y2.0 Z1.0 ; wipe away from the filament line ; ; End of StartUp ;

As you've seen - the StartUp Gcode preps the printer to start the print. It sets some basic parameters, heats the bed and hot end, auto-homes, levels, and in your case runs some filament through and then prints a little bit. For auto-level systems I think it's best to level with the hot end below print temperature so it doesn't ooze while it's leveling. I have been known to adjust the feed rate and flow during a print and then forget about it. When I immediately rolled into another print, it started out with my tuning numbers from the previous print. Not good. So here is what I think it needs. This is just the working code without all the settings you have included in your startup. You can just throw this out of course, it's your printer. ; ; StartUp Gcode ; G21 ; metric values G90 ; absolute positioning M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode M900 K0 ; disable lin. adv. if not set in GCODE M220 S100 ; Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ; Reset Flowrate M107 ; start with the fan off M104 S170 ; Start to heat the hot end below drool temp M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Heat the bed and wait G28 ; Auto-Home G1 F600 Z2.0 ; Move up 2mm M420 S1 ; Enable leveling M420 Z2.0 ; Set leveling fading height to 2 mm G1 F600 Z5 ; move up G1 F3000 X0 Y0 ; go back to the homing corner to ooze. M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for hotend G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 X5.0 Y5.0 Z0.3 ; Move to start of purge line G1 X102 Y5.0 E20 F1200 ; Extrude 10mm of filament (0.3 * 0.4 * 100)/2.405mm³/mm = 4.98mm so 20 is plenty G1 F1500 E18 ; retract a bit G92 E0 ; zero the extruder G1 F9000 X150 Y2.0 Z1.0 ; wipe away from the filament line ; ; End of StartUp ; In the Startup gcode you posted there is that line "G28 X0 Y10 Z0". G28 with the parameters at zero means "Home if you don't know where you are". I'm not sure why the "Y10" is there. It should be Y0 I think. I've taken out the beep because I personally find it highly annoying. The printer takes off when it's ready and I always found the visual clue to be enough. The G4 line goes away because I changed the code to wait for the bed before leveling so the dwell command isn't doing anything. I changed the layer height of the purge line to .30 since it's a pretty heavy flow and you don't want to hear the extruder skipping steps. I changed the length of the purge line to 100mm so I made the wipe to 150mm. If that is bigger than your bed you will need to shorten it.

I was going to compare the StartUp Gcode from an earlier version to 5.3.1. I just looked in 5.3.1 and I don't see a Mega S. Same with 4.13.1 - no Mega S. So I got stuck. If you post an old gcode that you liked and a new gcode that you hate (clearly named of course) it only takes a minute to straighten it out. Less time than it takes to explain for sure. In Cura go to Settings/Printers/Manage Printers and then Machine Settings. In the lower left is the StartUp Gcode and that's where your problem is. The best thing to do is get familiar with it yourself. The Marlin gcode commands are HERE. A little light reading can go a long ways. There is no need to memorize them but being familiar with the ones that are used a lot can really help you understand what's going on.

I had thought about adding a second extruder to my printer but then I'd have to do a bunch of other work to it. It prints really well so I decided to leave well enough alone. I did bother to install a second Ender 3 Pro and configure it for multiple extruders. I've played with it a lot so I have some idea of what's involved. I don't want to get into the whole "replace the mainboard and fiddle with the firmware" thing. In the main Cura workspace the "extruder selector buttons" are on the lower left of the workspace. Select a model and then select the extruder you want it to print with.

What post processor are you using? "Filament Change" uses M600 and puts everything on the printer firmware. If the printer doesn't support M600 it doesn't work. M600 supports several parameters and maybe you aren't getting them all in there correctly(?). "PauseAtHeight" puts everything into the gcode so it isn't dependent on the firmware BUT your firmware needs to support M0 or M25 in order to pause.

This is good. A duck that can back paddle.

Go to the Cura Marketplace (the button is in the upper right of the Cura workspace) and load the plugin "Mesh Tools". (While you are there, also load the "Printer Settings" plugin.) Mesh Tools has the "Split Model into Parts" function available when you right click on the model and select "Mesh Tools" at the top of the list. In order for it to work: the model must consist of separate meshes when it is brought in to Cura. I was able to split your model and set the gasket to Extruder 2. Here I changed the material in Extruder 2 just to make the gasket stand out in this screenshot.

I use the height. If you locate the cutting mesh an exact distance from the build plate then that's how far you would need to sink the model into the build plate to print the next higher part of the model. Little tricks like that allow you to print large models on relatively small printers. It also allows you to do something like print one part of the model at one layer height, and the other part of the model at a different layer height.

I have the same printer and so we're going to start at the beginning. Get out a carpenter tri-square and a good straightedge (a steel ruler will work). Start on the frame of the printer. You want to check that each axis is exactly square to each of the other axis. If (for example) the bed is running at an angle to the X-beam, your parts will be skewed when viewed from the top. You may have to loosen some screws and rotate some extrusions to get them just right. Make sure the X beam is exactly square to the Z uprights. If it isn't then leveling is near impossible. The Z uprights must be exactly parallel when viewed from the front, and from the side. In addition, their front faces must be in the same plane. If the Z parts are off then you will get Z binding and it will have an effect on the prints as they get taller. Once you have the frame square and parallel take the cover off the hot end. Is the hot end tight? Is it exactly straight up and down? Pull the bowden tube out of the hot end. Take a close look at the bottom 1/4" (6mm) of the tube. That portion can get chewed up by the little blades in the keeper fitting. You can trim it back by 6mm and re-install it. The bowden tube is a consumable part for just that reason. The bowden needs to make a seal where it hits the back end of the nozzle so the cut you make in the bowden tube must be nice and square. With the hot heated to about 175, back the nozzle out by 1/4 turn. Re-install the bowden tube and make sure it is tight against the nozzle. re-tighten the nozzle that last bit. That will put a bit of pressure against the bowden tube. Have you calibrated the E-steps? When Cura (any slicer) calls for filament then the right amount of filament needs to be pushed. There are on-line videos of how to do this. CHEP on YouTube is very Creality centric and has some good information on the Ender series. The belts should "twang like the strings of a bass guitar". Make sure they are adjusted. On each trolley, there is one roller that has a hex shape on the axle part. When you loosen the locking nut, you can rotate that hex shape to move the roller closer or further from the slot it rides in. You should just be able to rotate any wheel with two fingers. I mention all that because your brims are under-extruded. That can be because the E-steps are off, or because the leveling is off. If the Z gap is too high at the start of a print, then not enough filament is being delivered to fill that "too high" gap. So check your Z-offset as it may need to be dialed in better. When I opened the project file I got the warning that "the model is not watertight and may not print correctly". Zooming in, there is this spot that Cura has colored in a polka dot pattern. The error is actually on the other side and is the "i". The needs to be addressed or the 'i' won't print or will print poorly. Finally...raised letters are tougher. First, you have to print them right-side up. On these caps it means that support will be required for the undersides. You also have to deal with the line width. Your letters are 0.5 wide and your line width is 0.4 so Cura must either under-extrude the letters to fit two extrusions side-by-side, or over-extrude a single extrusion. It would be better if the letters were 0.8 wide for your 0.4 nozzle. The fact that the raised letters are 0.31 high is a problem as well. Cura won't adjust for that extra bit and so the layers will be 0.20 high. When the model has extensive supports when printed from one direction as opposed to the other I usually opt for the relieved letters like your "Text" so I can print the flat side on the bed and eliminate the need for support. But raised letters look better I think. That should keep you busy this evening. Good Luck.

From: Dr. Bunsen Honeydew To: All interested parties. Today Cura Labs proudly unveils @ahoeben's invention of "Velocelleration". The name is not yet carved in stone as Beaker is holding out for "Pseudoincrecellerocity". We are currently trying to convince him to change his mind. Please do not update your spell-checkers yet. Thank you for reading this interesting notice. Bunsen Honeydew, PHD, HMIC

Computers are dumb, but they are predictable. When the problem happens it's because some setting has told Cura to generate the gcode with those moves in it. It could be something like "Avoid Printed Parts" when combing.

That is a weird one. It looks more like a combing move than a wipe. Load a model that shows the problem and use the "File | Save Project" command. Post the 3mf file here and someone will take a look.

Here we have my Sport FIshing Benchy scaled to 350mm tall on a printer that is 250mm tall. The Support Blocker is as @Cuq says and configured as a cutting mesh with no walls, no tops/bottoms, ad 0% infill. I went into the machine settings and adjusted the Z(height) of the printer to 400 (or the model won't slice). When I need to do this I also add 1.75mm diameter cylinders as cutting mesh at the mate line between the two prints. They are typically 12mm long and sunk into the part by 6mm. They can be any diameter that will fit but I just use filament for the locating pins. When printing the top part of the model it gets sunk into the base as you've been doing, throw out the big block but keep (and do not move) the locating pin cutting meshes. At assembly, I use a pin drill and clean up the little holes, glue in pieces of filament as locating pins, and then glue the assembly together. The alignment between the parts is real darn close to perfect.

Hello from sunny Florida. Scanning can lead to very accurate results but the point cloud must be interpreted correctly in the translation software. 20 years ago the forensic engineering firm I worked for used Rhino3D. It was not cheap but did provide excellent results. We were scanning wrecked cars so there was no printing involved but the scans were amazingly accurate. As @gr5 mentions this scan has serious issues as far as printing goes. After repairing the model in MS 3D Builder I can still see right inside the shell. Open seams like that make it impossible for Cura to slice it as Cura can't tell the inside from the outside of the model. What you end up with is a shell that is infinitely thin and does not enclose a volume. I tried some things to fix this but I didn't have any luck. This seems like a translation software issue when going from the point cloud to a model. Your STL file can be translated into a DXF file and then can be modeled around that in CAD. It's basicly a rectangle with a flange and with some fancy stuff inside. The rectangle would take a couple of minutes. The other parts would take a while longer but there are really only 4 pieces to model. The rest would be copies. There are the 4 corner pieces, 4 mid pieces, the center piece, and the 4 knots that join the mid pieces to the center ring. I'll attach a DXF file here. I don't know if it will be any use to you but I made it up so here it is. It is at least a start for modeling in CAD as all the dimensions are going to be really close to your prototype part. Time wise it's probably faster to just model it up than fooling around forever trying to get the scan to work. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful, but that's what I see here. MS3DB_Repaired_AirGrate.zip

I've always liked that Cura can be customized to fit different needs. I'm an amateur hack and even at my low level of knowledge, things can be done to get what you want from the program. Nice to hear that it has worked out for you as well.

I think this would be easier in post-process than in the source code. (That's "easier" in the relative sense.) This might only need one setting and that would be the segment length you want the original line split into. (Deep breath and...) You know where the nozzle is. You know where it's going. If it's an extrusion you know the E. Divvy up the hypotenuse of the triangle (15 feet is 4572mm) by your 50 or 100mm. The integer portion is the number of increments and the remainder is the last move. Use the integer to calculate the ratio of the incremental X and Y and E values. (I don't see a need to know the angle but you could get it from the knowns.) Put a replacement string together something like: M83 G91 G1 (maybe F) Xincrement Yincrement Eincrement G1 Xincrement Yincrement Eincrement G1 Xincrement Yincrement Eincrement etc., etc., etc. G90 G1 original X and original Y and then the remaining E G92 Eoriginal M82 (if absolute extrusion M83 if relative extrusion) Replace the original line with that mess. G0 lines would be slightly different. Repeat through your 3 million lines of Gcode. 15 feet at 50mm segments - each single Gcode line would be represented by 90 or so lines of Gcode. Now the 3 million line gcode is up around 270 million lines. I think it might work. Possibly. Maybe. Your building is going to take a while to print. (Some of this stuff makes my head hurt.)

That's a popular problem. It must not be too out-of-balance or you would have noticed right off. It's a 4010 24v fan I think and ball bearings are good. If that is the stock fan it has sleeve bearings and that's one of the reasons it is so loud. I went with an Orion OD4010-24MB for the hot end. Make sure you solder the wires together and insulate them rather than using some kind of funky connector that can fall apart.

If you keep this up I won't have anything to complain about. I still will of course but it will be even more inane than my regular complaining.