Slashee_the_Cow
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Slashee_the_Cow
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18 hours ago, PBG said:
I attached the .3mf in the op. I can provide the .stl as well if you want, but there's no anomaly in the model itself.
The .3mf you posted is just the model (though it has been in Cura) - did you go to File > Export with the model selected? We need the file you get from File > Save Project.
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If you could provide the Cura project file (.3mf, get it set up in Cura then go to File > Save Project) we can dig into it for you. 3D scanners aren't always the greatest at exporting completely valid models but I find Revo Scan isn't too bad a lot of the time.
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Main Point: You can just import a model (you may have to make a suitable one first) and make it print as support structure by using the Per Model Settings tool, if you want really fine control over your supports.
Asides/Bragging: Have you considered printing it leaning back a bit on a diagonal so Cura generates support for it?
Although sometimes you need custom supports so it doesn't go overkill on itself:
There's no way the sides would hold themselves up if the support was only in the centre. And if I left Cura to generate the support, it would have put it every-%^#(-where.
Also I needed to print it at exactly that angle because it let me fit the biggest disc possible inside my printer's build volume.
20 Slashee points for whoever can tell me what I needed the biggest disc possible inside my printer's build volume for (PM me if you're not replying to thread anyway so we don't derail it).
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19 hours ago, jaysenodell said:
*Dang you @Slashee_the_Cow! here I am trying to slow this thing down when everyone else is trying to go faster! See what you've done? See!?!
Hey, I keep telling people to slow down. So in my book, you're a victory story.
19 hours ago, jaysenodell said:Realisticaly, I need to have something that is jaysen_start that is infront of the jaysen_pla to limit the printer stupid defaults. Maybe that is a rewrite of the printer definition to limit the speeds*?
Printer definition files have both a maximum speed (defined as machine_max_feedrate_x, machine_max_feedrate_y, machine_max_feedrate_z - and machine_max_feedrate_e if you wanna go nuts telling your extruder what it can do) and a default speed - speed_print mainly but you can set it for pretty much every specific feature type (infill, walls, outer walls and inner walls separately... I highly recommend you check @ahoeben's convenient list if you want to get that neurotic).
Probably not the S1 Pro but have seen reports of the E3V3SE ignoring speed/acceleration set in the gcode and just going fast on its own. The solution there is to manually turn down the limits on the printer's control panel.
However the default speed can be overridden by a speed specified by the material, although I don't think (haven't tried) setting something higher than the maximum printer speed. Whether it does this is controlled by a setting in the quality profile: if you don't have the Material Settings plugin installed, then your option is pretty limited:
If the ƒx button is there, then you have the temperature hard coded in the profile. Click that and it'll automatically set itself based on the material:
If you do have the Material Settings plugin installed, then you're doing it right, and you can also set more than just the base speed based on the material profile - right click on any of the settings that should be in the material profile and click "Use value from material":
Yes the replacement pattern is a bit long. Doesn't matter. Point is that it's there.
Now for the part you want: Inheritance.
If it can be done, I don't know how. If you duplicate a material it says it's "linked" but changes don't seem to propagate. It just seems to create a copy of the material's XML file (what, you thought Cura would be easy on you and use incredibly picky JSON for everything?) and copies the values instead of using references.
...so by the sounds of it you're probably better off making your own custom definition. Initially I did it because Cura didn't have a definition for the E3V2Neo. Then the E3V3SE. Now I do it because the profiles for Creality machines seem to be maintained by clown dentists with rabies. PM me if you want help with that, they're secrets that in the wrong hands could do more harm than good.
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14 hours ago, Herbmaster said:
Then you can paste the M104 S230
M109 S230 (to also wait for it to heat up or cool down).You never need an M104 followed immediately by an M109. M104 is "set target temperature". M109 is "set target temperature and wait until it reaches it".
Also if you want to wait for it to cool down then it needs be M109 R230
The S parameter will trigger at the target temperature or anything above. R will only trigger at the target temperature, even if it has to cool down to get there.
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Just don't use Greg's script on small internal areas which require both a floor and ceiling like this:
Trust me on this one.
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21 hours ago, GregValiant said:
I wouldn't trust that myself, but good luck.
I wouldn't print that without support myself, but good luck.
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I think it makes vague sense. I also know I'm not the one to answer this.
@ahoeben, you're up.
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7 minutes ago, Carbon said:
This is what I can see.....
Is that from the model file or the gcode? Because the gcode will show the problem but it's almost impossible to work backwards from it to figure out why it happened.
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16 hours ago, Erosion139 said:
It may have been a fluke but I will report back, it caused a print failure though so it certainly happened. 😞
Don't worry, we believe you. Cura can mess up slicing in many different ways for many different reasons. The calculations for the cubic subdivision infill are more complicated than regular so it's possible that it gets a bit mixed up at points.
Obviously I can't see more than a fraction of your model but if the rest of the model is anything like that bit subdivision wouldn't help anyway, it just identifies large internal cavities and prints less dense in there, but it shouldn't (in theory) make a difference in narrower bits.
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@PBG if you could post a Cura project file .3mf, not just the model (set it up in Cura then go to File > Save Project) that would really help. The model slices fine for me so it could be your settings.
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14 hours ago, tstage said:
- Rebooting the laptop - No change
- Clearing cache and registry using CCleaner - No change
Please tell me you're not printing over USB from the laptop. Seriously, please. Printing over USB is a vestigial remnant from the days when printers were too stupid to be able to read memory cards and is no longer supported. It could also be the source of your problem if the laptop is unable to keep sending commands at the required rate.
Yes, the memory card that comes with the printer is a POS with generally less than one week to live by the time you get your hands on it. Yes, it's %^#@ing picky in that it wants a microSD card 4-16GB formatted as FAT32 with a sector size of 4,096 bytes. But I can tell you from personal experience that it works much better printing from the memory card than over USB.
Also: Piriform (the company that makes CCleaner) got bought by a company with a pretty bad track record of collecting user data without asking for it (or despite people opting out of it) a few years ago. Use BleachBit instead. It's free and open source.
As @GregValiant said, check to make sure your printer is tuned properly. Out of the box my E3V2Neo had the belt for the X axis loose, the belt for the Y axis very loose, and one of the wheels on X axis gantry on too tight so that the gantry actually started going at a tilt. Also the screws that hold the filament holder on are softer than than Play-Doh and I managed to strip them just by looking at them too hard when screwing them in, but that shouldn't affect your print quality unless it starts leaning over, the spool falls off and slams into the bed.
Also considering Cura didn't ship with a definition for the E3V2Neo when I had one lemme just check that out.
{ "version": 2, "name": "Creality Ender-3 v2 Neo", "inherits": "creality_base", "metadata": { "visible": true, "platform": "creality_ender3.3mf", "quality_definition": "creality_base" }, "overrides": { "gantry_height": { "value": 25 }, "machine_depth": { "default_value": 230 }, "machine_head_with_fans_polygon": { "default_value": [ [-26, 34], [-26, -32], [32, -32], [32, 34] ] }, "machine_height": { "default_value": 250 }, "machine_name": { "default_value": "Creality Ender-3 v2 Neo" }, "machine_start_gcode": { "default_value": "G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG28 ;Home\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up" }, "machine_width": { "default_value": 230 }, "retraction_amount": { "value": 4 }, "retraction_speed": { "value": 25 } } }OMFG how does this %$(* pass a PR? For the love of all things beefy open your machine settings in Cura and change the print volume to 220x220x250. Yes the printer can technically print a larger area than that, but for that you need to set it up in advance to do so. And it's not really worth the hassle. @GregValiant can you please run a git blame on this for me. And @nallath when you're working on the printer linter please stop it from letting people do it quarter-arsed like this. Why couldn't they at least inherit from the base E3/E3V2 profile? The only meaningful difference is that the Neo has ABL and this profile doesn't even take that into account.
But seriously, change the print volume. If it hasn't been set up in advance to try and print in an area larger than 220x220 then it's entirely possible it'll go out of bounds on at least one axis, the motor will try forcing it when it doesn't want to go any further which will make it slip which will move it out of position and cause layer shift.
@jaysenodell if you bring up what I know you want to bring up here I'll grab a golf club and use it to send your mini PC out the nearest window and the last time I tried using a golf club was at a driving range and I was hitting balls sideways so I'll miss the window by a mile and hit something valuable. What you want to add just complicates things when the message we want to send is don't print over USB. Also don't be on the same level as me at a driving range.
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The outer walls in the preview mode are red - unless you only have a single wall, the infill should only overlap the first (green) inner wall (which it is). The yellow area is skin (top/bottom), several layers of it are generated above or below parts of the model exposed to air (i.e. holes, or the bottom or top of the model). Usually skin has its own walls around it but in this case I'm guessing it's too close to the existing walls to generate it.
If the model file itself has errors, that could also cause skin to be generated where it shouldn't.
You can make it generate a wall against that skin area - and everywhere else, unfortunately - by setting Infill > Extra Infill Wall Count to 1. This will make it print a wall around the infill using the infill settings.
If you want a more extensive investigation, post your Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it set up then go to File > Save Project) and we can see if there's anything funny going on.
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Probably. Most Creality printers (except the really really new ones) are pretty similar so the profiles usually aren't too different. I don't know enough about either of those (I mainly know the Ender-3 Vx models) to know if there's any major differences. Just watch your first few prints and if it looks like it's going to hurt itself, cancel the print.
Official disclaimer (sorry, comes with the job of assistant mod):
UltiMaker is not responsible for adding definitions for third party printers to Cura. They must be contributed by either the manufacturer or the community.
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If you could post the STL model file that would be great - it's impossible to tell based just on the settings if it's a problem with the settings or a problem with the model.
36 minutes ago, berto85 said:the file is not saved because the latest version of cura does not have my printer and I had to hack it, but I put some images.
The Ender-3 V3 KE is basically just a faster (but you don't need it to go faster), hotter version of the Ender-3 V3 SE so you can just use the profile for that.
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Hi there! Your friendly assistant mod Slashee here. I don't know much about UltiMaker printers 😞 but the people on the UltiMaker Printers board do so I'm moving your topic there.
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19 minutes ago, Adventurehill1 said:
Is there a way (Other than changing support overhang angle) to make it generate support there?
You don't need to. The shorter layers don't overhang each other enough to need support.
If you really want to, you could add a mesh there and use the Per Model Settings tool and set it to Print as support (the second option). Here's a right triangular prism you can use (scale as required).
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There's less overhang where the layers are shorter. It's still expanding at the same rate but each layer doesn't stick out as far from the previous one as the taller layers.
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5 hours ago, jestertoo said:
I noticed that the models, even when not sliced, are dark grey like the original poster's picture without the red X. Not yellow as expected. When placed in invalid location they are yellow/lightgrey striped as expected.
The colour the models are shown in in Prepare mode is based on the material you have selected. "Generic PLA" is yellow but you have a black filament selected (it shows dark grey because completely black would make it hard to see details). If I switch to a purple filament:
The dark grey in the centre is just part of Cura's shadow which displays the space it takes up on the build plate and not part of the model.
5 hours ago, jestertoo said:Run as Admin does not work for me. Eternally slicing, occasionally ending in a non-specific error. GPU goes to about 20% and CPU about the same.
Downgrading to 5.4 works fine for me and slices so fast it's not even a blip.If you can try slicing it in a newer version, preferably getting it to end in a non-specific error, could you please do that and post the cura.log file from the configuration folder (just go to Help > Show Configuration Folder) then we can see if there's anything which can be figured out (and I'll be perfectly honest: don't count on a solution being in the log file, but small chance of seeing problem in log > not seeing log).
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4 hours ago, rimbo said:
I had Wall line width 0.5 leftover from my previous 0.4 Layer height prints. Having Layer Height at 0.2 now the WLW 0.5 made the ratio over 200%.
It's not really about the ratio, you just need to make sure you're running an appropriate layer height and line width for your nozzle.
Layer height should never be over 80% of the nozzle diameter, so if you have the fairly common 0.4mm nozzle that would mean don't set your layer height above 0.32mm. There's no hard minimum, but the shorter you go the more precise you printer needs to be with its movements and extrusions which is why it's better to use a smaller nozzle (where such precision isn't as important because you're not trying to control a small flow through a big hole).
Line width should be 60-150% of the nozzle diameter (so 0.24mm-0.6mm on a 0.4mm nozzle). Too narrow and you just can't extrude or place it accurately. Too wide and you just can't get it to spread wide enough out of the nozzle.
Also: you're getting elephant's foot (it's squished down a bit at the bottom and has expanded sideways). Try setting Walls > Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion to -2mm or so (you can do tests to fine tune it).
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2 hours ago, Heyday-96 said:
So what buttons do I need to push? To make the tree support work, all of them?
Tree supports work pretty well with the default settings now. This is an old thread and the code for the trees has been improved a lot since then.
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5 hours ago, buder5 said:
Edit: got my anwser there a gcode before and after at filament change script i'll put a m104 before and m109 after so it set and then wait at the after
edit2: if temperature command ignored make sure its a M and not an MIf you're increasing temperature, only put the M104 before the pause if you know you're going to be there to change it when it pauses or else you risk burning the PETG.
If you're decreasing the temperature, make sure the gcode after is M109 R<temperature> and not S. S means "wait until it's this temperature or higher' and will automatically trigger. R means "wait until it's this temperature even if that's cooling down".
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1 hour ago, GregValiant said:
One thing I know for sure...there will never be an "Easy" button in Cura.
Sure there is:
Seriously though, of all the slicers I've tried, Cura is the easiest to use. And also least frustrating. They're different scales. Frustrating is often stuff designed to be so idiot-proof that it lacks access to things useful to non-idiots. Anyways, in Cura the settings for 98% of the things you're likely to want to print are easy to find. What settings it doesn't have, often there's a post-processing script or plugin that can help. If you have as much free time as me, you can and do write a single purpose script for something you're not otherwise able to.
And for stuff that Cura just can't handle... we might not always admit it, but we all have dalliances with the dark side on occasion. And if I did that, it would generally remind me why Cura is always my first stop.
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The script isn't that tedious. I personally use the Pause at height script, which doesn't send an M600 command, so you have to unload the filament and prime the next one manually. My printer (Ender-3 V3 SE)'s built in unload and load programs suck anyway.
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Go to Extensions > Post Processing > Modify G-Code
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Click the Add a script button
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Select Pause at height from the list (I have a lot of custom scripts installed so your list probably won't be so packed)
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Then there's the settings. It might look a bit overwhelming but it's not that hard, although some of the settings will depend on your printer:
Pause at: Choose whether to pause at a particular height (like 5mm) or a particular layer (like 48 here)
Pause Height / Pause Layer: The height or layer number you want to pause at.
Method: This depends on the G-Code flavour your printer uses. Marlin is pretty common, but if you're not sure open the machine settings for your printer and see what it says for the G-Code flavour setting.
Keep motors engaged: You need to keep the motors engaged. This stops you from moving the print head (without deliberately trying, anyway) because if you move it then it will be out of position and you'll get layer shift (your next layers won't line up with what you already have). Not all printers obey this setting, including mine. That's why if you turn off Keep motors engaged, you get...
Disarm timeout: How many seconds until the motors disengage automatically. You have this long to change your filament. Fortunately most printers accept pretty high numbers, I think mine can go higher but I figure 2 hours (7200 seconds) is more than enough.
Park Print: This moves the print head out of the way of the print so you can change filament without having your print in the way, which is important for when you're purging the new filament.
Park Print Head X/Y: Where the head moves to when it parks. Usually a corner of the build plate is most convenient. I get mine to go to the front left corner; the front because it means the build plate is completely behind it and not in the way and the left because the printer's control panel is on the right and doesn't really get in the way but I figure when I can avoid it easily enough why not.
Retraction: How much the filament should retract before the head moves to park. This is there to hopefully retract enough that it doesn't leave a trail when it moves. Again it depends on your printer: I have a direct drive extruder so I only need it to be very low. If you have a Bowden extruder (the filament goes into a thing on the printer's frame which has feed wheels and then the filament goes through a tube to the print head) you'll probably want a higher number like about 5mm.
Retraction Speed: How fast the material should be retracted. If you're really not sure you can look at the retraction settings in the print quality profile (they're in the Travel section). Most printers can probably do at least 35mm/s. It's not the end of the world if you set it a bit higher than your printer can do because then it will just do it as fast as it can (which is what you want if you're using a fairly stable material like PLA).
Extrude Amount: How much filament the printer should extrude before it gets back to printing. We're manually purging, so it should be 0mm, then the speed doesn't matter it all.
Redo layer: If you turn this on it will make it print the layer it did before you paused. You almost certainly don't want this.
Use M109 for standby temperature? This is another one that can depend on your printer. M109 is "wait for hotend temperature" and M104 is is "set hotend temperature". Some printers, if you use M109, can start cooling down after a certain time period without printing. Some printers will do that for an M104. You can either experiment or search the web for the right option, it's probably out there somewhere.
Standby Temperature: How hot the hot end should stay while it's paused. We're changing material here, so set it to the print temperature so it's hot enough we can unload and load.
Display Text: What (in theory) shows up on the printer's screen when it pauses. Creality's custom firmware doesn't actually show these messages (M117) but I like to have it there so I know where I am if I'm looking through the G-Code manually.
Beep at pause: Hopefully I don't have to explain this one. I want to know when it's ready to change filament so I have it on. That enables the Beep length setting which is again self-explanatory (just remember it's in milliseconds so 1 second = 1000ms).
G-code Before/After Pause: A lot of the time this won't be necessary, but some printers have quirks and you have to have to do something to make it pause happily. If you want to change the print temperature after you pause, you'll need to use the G-code After option and insert M109 R<temperature> so for example M109 R200.
- You can close the post-processing settings now. Hopefully it's all set up.
- Slice it.
- Print it and if you turned on a beep, wait for that (or if you didn't, just wait for it to stop printing).
- Unload the existing filament. In most cases the extruder has a button or lever you hold down and just pull the filament out (don't forget to clip the end so it's nice and smooth next time you want to use it).
- Load the new filament. Hold down the lever and push the new filament in, enough to make it start pushing filament out of the nozzle. Keep pushing until the colour of the new filament is coming out of the nozzle. Pull all the purge off so it's out of the way.
- Resume printing. Depends on printer, but on mine you just have to press the control knob, regardless of what's selected on screen.
8 hours ago, buder5 said:and i will need todo a temperature one too if its a different material
Warning here: most kinds of material will not adhere to each other (hell, ABS will hardly adhere to itself) which means the new part is likely to be dragged around by the nozzle because it can't get stuck down where it starts printing. There are some combinations that work but most don't. That's why filament changes are usually only done to change colour with the same kind of material.
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Go to Extensions > Post Processing > Modify G-Code
Stringing starts at certain layer height
in Improve your 3D prints
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Have you tried putting another nozzle on it? If it started exactly when you changed the nozzle, the odds it's a dud nozzle are pretty high.