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Slashee_the_Cow

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Everything posted by Slashee_the_Cow

  1. Have you tried turning on Travel > Retract at Layer Change? Might keep some filament from going down when it jerks on a layer change.
  2. Are you trying to use the web interface or do you have the software (Windows only) that makes a folder/virtual drive on your computer with all your files? I don't think there's a way to import a file directly from the web interface, but if you have the sync software installed you can just open it like you'd open any other file on your computer. It just might take a little bit to download before Cura loads it if it's not set to be available offline (which actually downloads and stores it on your computer and updates it whenever the cloud version changes).
  3. Don't worry, we don't ask questions here. Besides, there are plenty of free models available. I've been 3D printing for 10 years and always used Cura. Gotta use something to slice it, there's no way in hell I'm writing megabytes of gcode myself. Here's where I actually try to help: open the print settings at the top right and go to the Cooling section. You might have to choose to show custom settings and then click the button that looks like three horizontal lines and choose "all". In the Cooling section there's a setting called Minimum Speed. There's no real "correct" number here, it depends on your printer and the material you're using. If there's a blue circle arrow icon next to it, that means it's been changed, click that button to reset it to default. I think the default settings are pretty generic, mine is at 10mm/s. try setting it somewhere around there and see if you can slice. There's also the Minimum Layer Time setting above it, again by default mine is at 10s. These control the minimum time it will take to print each layer to give the material a chance to properly cool before it lays more on top. If both of these settings seem normal, then it probably needs some further examination in detail. If you can save the project (go to File menu, then Save Project) and upload the .3mf file here (you can just click+drag it into a post/reply box and it'll upload) then us nutjobs enthusiasts can have a look in more detail; the project file includes your printer's settings and all the print settings. It also includes the model file, we're an honest bunch around here so on behalf of all the regular posters on the forum, I promise we won't share it, and we'll only print it if necessary to test it. If you're not comfortable with that, then if you could find another model (you could download something from Thingiverse, plenty of cool stuff there) that has the same problem you can upload the project file for that.
  4. You can also shorten that "%APPDATA%\cura\5.4\variants". Sorry, just being pedantic. Although if you change your username, the files don't automatically move, so it's not necessarily the folder with your username you want. %APPDATA% is a Windows environment variable that always points to the AppData\Roaming\ folder for your account.
  5. I hate to be the one to break it to you, but Cura doesn't make models, it's just for converting existing models into machine code for 3D printers. Edit: I just remembered there's Tinkercad, which is very easy to get into. What you're trying to do seems like it'd be great to do in FreeCAD, which seems a bit overwhelming at first, but for a lot of things you can ignore 90% of it, the tutorials they have about designing parts are pretty good. There's also Thingiverse which contains zillions of cool (and functional) models other people have made, but probably won't have something as specific as you're looking for. And just remember that the material you're dealing with is plastic, and will be weaker than a lot of plastic things you can buy (most of which are made by injection moulding, where the whole thing sets and binds together at once, not slowly as it gets printed). Different kinds of filament have different strengths and weaknesses, I only really know PLA and ABS, and ABS would probably be better for this use (I think), but I wouldn't count on it supporting that much weight (it's worth a try though, I've been surprised by what other people's creations have been capable of).
  6. I wish I was that smart. I promise you I'm not 43915 (my other usernames in various places are at least as wacky as Slashee the Cow, except I don't use them enough to bother with a website I never update).
  7. You're far from alone. Almost everyone has various problems with 5.4. Most of us here on the forums are wondering why they haven't pulled the download until they can release a version sans bugs.
  8. And this is why I love saying "this can't be done", brings in the masses to show how it's done. I'll amend my point to "there's no way a slicer can guarantee it can be done and it will only work for small gaps", how's about that.
  9. Well, if that's what works for you, I'm happy to take the credit 🙂
  10. To anyone reading this: if you want to see what's actually relevant to the troubleshooting, scroll down to the bit in bold. Snap is a container format designed to contain a program and all of its dependencies (i.e. the libraries it uses) in a single package to be run in a sandboxed environment for security. It exists to avoid the "dependency hell" problem you can have with Linux, where different programs are programmed with the expected behaviour of different versions of common libraries (shared between all the regular executables - not container formats - on the system) which can potentially break older software if a newer version of the library which deprecates or removes older features is installed. It is proprietary to Canonical (the company that develops Ubuntu) who host the single repository from which Snap files are distributed, and pretty much the rest of the Linux community hates it and uses the completely open alternative, Flatpak. Even most Linux distributions derived from Ubuntu remove Snap support and include Flatpak support by default. /\ Rant about Ubuntu and Snaps \/ Actual troubleshooting BTW I am including information for people not too familiar with Linux. Anyway, back to my investigations (running Ubuntu in a VM). Annoyed the libfuse2 isn't installed by default so I have to go to the terminal to install that before I can even run an AppImage (it mounts itself in a virtual filesystem and runs there; FUSE is the Linux driver for filesystems in userspace, which allows filesystems to be safely be mounted as required with having access to the kernel). Running the AppImage from a terminal, keeping a look at the terminal output as it's running, whenever I clicked the button to sign in, this popped up: mkdir: cannot create directory ‘/run/user/0’: Permission denied Authorization required, but no authorization protocol specified Error: cannot open display: :0 I didn't bother to look at the Cura logs, but it's entirely possible it's the same problem. Could be trying to write the verification code there and couldn't. Closed Cura, then on a hunch, pressed up in the terminal. I'd run the AppImage using sudo (SuperUserDo, lets you do anything as the root account which can mess with almost anything on the system; it's there to avoid people having to login as root because in case something bad happens, you want it to happen to just your account, not the whole system). I actually thought the problem might have been that I ran it as a regular user, and it might need root permission to access those directories - it turns out that because of the way the root account works in an AppImage container, it can't create its own directory there (the 0 is because the root account has the user ID 0). So I ran Cura as my regular user (no sudo) and the sign in process worked flawlessly. So make sure you're running Cura from an account without superuser privileges. The verification code it's generated is probably trying to be stored in your user folder, which won't work as root. /\ TL;DR: What worked for me \/ A couple of minor technical niggles because I like poking technical niggles 1) Trying to access that web server process directly from basically any software you'd run (as opposed to software that contains an API that uses it, as Cura - or a browser which supports OAuth which is what it loads - does) is pretty pointless. A web browser will generally only try to connect on port 443 (HTTPS) then fall back to 80 (HTTP). FTP servers use 20 (data transfer) and 21 (commands) or just 22 (if using Secure FTP). About the only thing that would find it is a port scanner looking for open ports. 2) Trying to access something on your computer using localhost should work in almost any situation, but it's not an iron-clad guarantee - it's just an alias defined in /etc/hosts and redirects to 127.0.0.1 (the IPv4 loopback address). You should probably use 127.0.0.1 (IPv4) or ::1 (loopback address for IPv6) to access your own system. 3) Even with any user facing antivirus or firewalls turned off, there's still lots of services running in the background which could interfere with network traffic. In my fresh install of 22.04 there's netns, inet_frag_ml, watchdogd, ipv6_addrconf, systemd-timesyncd, avahi-daemon, NetworkManager, networkd-dispatcher, wpa-supplicant, ModemManager, systemd-hostnamed and probably some others I don't recognise by name.
  11. Did you install the Snap package for it or a regular package? Both are in the Ubuntu software program, on an application's page at the top right it should tell you its source. If you downloaded the Snap, then my guess would be that it's because Snap programs are run in a sandbox with very limited access to the rest of the system - I'd be very surprised if it allowed a web server access to the system (I could be wrong, not hugely experienced with Snaps because *twenty minute rant* and that's why I use openSUSE Tumbleweed). Both versions of Cura in the Ubuntu software repositories are old, anyway (4.13.2 for the Snap and 4.13.0 for the regular package). The best option is to download an AppImage from the Cura homepage.
  12. Okay, experiment time! (if you dare) Here's an STL file containing a small cylinder with a rim overhanging at the top. If you can print this as a regular model (not spiralise), without support and have the rim print fine and stay in place, I will tip my hat to thee, fine sir, madam or otherwise. It is designed to be printed at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4mm line width. I don't mind what material you use. cylinder_with_rim.stl
  13. Because it's physically impossible. You can't spiralise if you have to build supports, and you can't have a top without support because if you try and print next to a wall with nothing below, the filament is just going to go straight down, not adhere to a wall next to it.
  14. Could mean there's a (potentially hardware) problem with your extruder, or that you just need to spend three months playing with settings to dial it in (probably easier just to buy a new a printer). Two settings you could test with (probably small prints as a proof of concept, unless you need to do a "whole spool of filament" sort of print to end up with problems): 1) For this you'll need the Printer Settings plugin by @ahoeben (who seems to have way too much free time based on all the awesome plugins they've made), click "Marketplace" at the top right, scroll down until you get to it, then install it. Restart Cura and your print profile at the top right will have a new "Printer Settings" section. In that there's a setting called Firmware Retraction. I honestly have no idea whether your firmware supports this (I'm just running Creality's firmware on my Ender-3 v2 Neo... and I have no idea if my firmware supports it) but it's worth trying if changes to other retraction settings you made have an effect. 2) Travel > Enable Retraction (turn it off). Will result in strings anywhere it does a travel move (so not a usable end product), but if that's the only problem, then that's definitely more signs pointing to the extruder being at fault.
  15. Remember that in your model file, any top surface has to be raised to print, it can't be equal height with the top of the bottle, because after the base, spiralise will only print a single wall per layer, regardless of what's in the model.
  16. UltiMaker's support section does have an article on doing a clean install, you could see if that makes a difference (just make sure you open the link in step 2). Other than that, I'll let you know if I think of anything short of "format your drive, reinstall Windows" since that option is a bit extreme.
  17. Your model is, for whatever reason, moved waaaaaaaay up high into space. In the bottom left of Cura is the Object List, click on your model (Hero_break.obj) , then open the move panel (arrows icon on the top left of the sidebar) and set Z to 0mm
  18. Try using an uninstaller program that searches for any leftovers (my favourite is the free and open source Bulk Crap Uninstaller) to remove any Cura installations you have and clean up anything left behind, then install Cura again.
  19. Second, less experimental thought: How many wall lines are you printing? If you have a couple of inner walls (would bring the wall total line count up to 3) it will help hide any imperfections in the outer wall. It'll also increase your print time and material used, but if anybody said life was fair, they were lying.
  20. My guess for the last shot: If it's printed the roof in finer detail (like a narrower line width) then moved straight to a regular line, the flow rate probably didn't catch up quickly enough, resulting in underextrusion. All I can think of that might help with if that's the case is that Cura has an experimental setting called Flow Rate Compensation Factor, which increases/decreases the extrusion based on what it will need in the next second, not what it's printing right then. I haven't tried it, and I don't know what you'd want to set it to (100% is the default which I think makes it disabled, you'd want to increase but I have no idea by how much), but it's still in experimental because it can create blobs sometimes. Could be worth a small test print but I certainly wouldn't bet the farm on it.
  21. What version of Cura did you use? 5.4 has some issues slicing, one workaround is to change to Maximum Resolution setting to 0.5mm but I don't think that would really work for your torture test there. Version 5.3.1 slices fine and it's what we generally recommend people use around here until they either fix 5.4 or we can come up with a good answer as to why they haven't taken it down until it is fixed.
  22. Running Linux on a Chromebook is more of a "Google wants you to be able to run Android Studio" thing than a "Google wants you to use this as a daily driver" thing so they're not too concerned about making changes which might break other things. I'm pretty sure the Linux development environment that gets installed on a Chromebook is based on Debian (or one of its children). If I'm wrong then these commands will do nothing (probably just give give you an error about not being able to find apt) so not really going to cause any harm (other than me having to do more research). First, the simple: just try downloading the appimage for another version of Cura (5.3.1 is a good choice) and see if that works. If not, some more advanced troubleshooting: Let's try reinstalling the package it seems to have a problem with (assuming it's installed in the first place, it might have had just libraries needed, in which case there should be no harm installing it) apt update sudo apt reinstall xcb That will fetch a list of the latest packages available, then reinstall the one that's causing the error. It sounds like it might be outside of the system's PATH environment variable, but I don't know, I don't use Linux on my Chromebook much. Anyway, try that, reboot, try Cura again. If that doesn't work, let's go for the kitchen sink approach. Run these commands: apt update sudo apt reinstall *xcb* That will (again) make sure we have the latest list of packages and then it will reinstall (or install if missing, which a lot of them might be) anything with "xcb" in its name. Reboot, run Cura again. See if it works. Whether or not it works, it'll probably leave you with stuff you don't need installed. Clean it up with this: sudo apt --purge autoremove That just uninstalls any packages you don't need (and deletes any configuration files they might have made and their downloads from the package cache). If the system is wrong about you not needing something and it breaks, just run sudo apt reinstall *xcb* again. Unfortunately if all that doesn't work... I'm out of ideas for now. I don't really have an equivalent setup to you (my Chromebook is arm64 so a lot of packages aren't available or need to be compiled from source, and on my desktop I'm rocking openSUSE Tumbleweed). P.S. You don't need to run ls before you run Cura. All that does is list files in the current directory. Just type ./Ultimaker and press tab (which should autocomplete the filename, or if you have more than one file that starts with that, keep pressing tab until it comes up with the right one).
  23. First I would try 5.3.1, there's some nasty slicing bugs in 5.4 anyway. Otherwise: if there's any third party plugins installed (I honestly don't know if it copies them over to new versions or something), try deleting them, they are stored in: Windows: %APPDATA%\cura\5.4\plugins (just copy and paste that into Windows explorer and it'll work) Linux: ~/.local/share/cura/5.4/plugins MacOS: No idea. Don't have a Mac.
  24. Remember, top surface skin layers only really makes a difference if you change any of the top surface skin settings. More layers printed with better quality settings will do better to cover up any holes that might exist. One probably isn't enough unless you're using a fat nozzle and printing really thick layers (which you're not). As for line width: what I've read generally says 60-150% and on a 0.4mm nozzle Cura gives me a warning (setting box turns yellow) if I enter anything below 0.26mm. You could try thinner, but I would just do it on a small test print (like, you know, a tiny cylinder or something) before I tried it on anything big.
  25. Awww, I thought we were becoming friends. I do like auto level, partially because every person seems to have a different idea of how far apart the bed and nozzle should be.
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