jaysenodell

If you have a 0.4 noz installed but have cura set for 0.2… yeah. What nozzle is on the printer?

I recenlty tried this as a general "I'm tired of waiting" fix. Keep your lay height under 0.38 and you're good (I didn't beieve the math from Prussa to tried it... don't waste the filiament). For the most part you can't tell the diffence between 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles. There is some loss in edge detail and "fine line" but nothing I considered critical for strucural work.

Seeing that. Less "bad" that the overall seam. I'll need to get the unit off the printer to see if it is acceptable though. those "pocks" ... is that the coast or the wipe? I'm a bit cautious as I do need to be concerned with solid and strong-ish here.

Added the outwer wall wipre distance and z seam alignment to per model settings for now. Wipe == 0.5mm Align == Random Had to redesign this a bit but effectively the same. I'm using 50% scaling to avoid the long print and waste. I've debated nozzle swapping to larger to make this thing faster but I think that would have negative effects if I understad the impacts of large diameter nozzles properly.

I’m showing 0.4 line width, 0.28 layer thickness, 145% initial layer width. Wall thickness is 0.8. I still had the project open from when I started the print (which was when I saved it). Coasting must be one of those “not in the normal exposure” levels. Seems outer wall is as well. I’m going to let the last couple glasses of rum dissipate before o dog for those.

This is interesting. I have not knowingly changed this. Let me adjust and verify that this is not set all over the place.

I would like to suggest that I strugle with searching for answers, but I seem to have gotten this far with my skills so let's go with my skills have failed me at this point. I'm printing a long tube. It would be "nice" if the tube didn't have a seam that was a straight line. I've fiddled with things to make the line less visible but it hasn't mattered until now. Any suggestions? Here's the project for the "big tube" were this is least critical but likely easiest to fix. Maybe. Tuna Tubes.3mf

Hey now… some of us think FreeCAD isn’t that hard. FreeCAD can make an editable object from an STL, but you’ll need lots of memory and ram. Especially if it’s a large or complex STL. I would say you have both. Expect it to run an hour (or multiple hours) on the various import and transformation steps. Save after each (to a new file) and expect crashes due to out of memory conditions. Increase swap save when that happens. You’ll have the same problem with any effort to go “backwards” from STL to planar solid.

Dumb idea… is it possible that the filament is “under tension” when the extruder is in that location and the hot end isn’t getting fed by the system? Think binding in Bowden, interference with structure/wiring in direct drive, angle between runout sensor/scrubber. it has a feeling of something related to the mechanics that aren’t normally considered.

Based on all my files including something like ;End of Gcode ;SETTING_3 {"global_quality": "[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Standard Quality ;SETTING_3 #2\\ndefinition = creality_ender3s1pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = qual ;SETTING_3 ity_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nsetting_version = 22\\n\\n[va ;SETTING_3 lues]\\nadhesion_type = none\\nmaterial_bed_temperature_layer_0 = 65. ;SETTING_3 0\\nsupport_enable = True\\nsupport_type = buildplate\\n\\n", "extrud ;SETTING_3 er_quality": ["[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Standard Quality #2\\ ;SETTING_3 ndefinition = creality_ender3s1pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = quality_c ;SETTING_3 hanges\\nquality_type = standard\\nsetting_version = 22\\nposition = ;SETTING_3 0\\n\\n[values]\\ninfill_pattern = trihexagon\\ninitial_layer_line_wi ;SETTING_3 dth_factor = 125.0\\nmaterial_print_temperature_layer_0 = 200.0\\nret ;SETTING_3 raction_hop_enabled = True\\nretraction_hop_only_when_collides = True ;SETTING_3 \\nsupport_pattern = lines\\n\\n"]} And I've added no specific plugin, I suspect Cura is adding the info. But I don't think it is being read, nor should we expect it to be read as GCode is not garanteed to have the data. I would also suggest that other plugins or post processing (such as with Octoprint) may make this data unreadable... there are "extra lines" after these in my files thanks to the layer progress plugin in Octo. Once you are talking GCode... all bets are off.

The STL is an object. It is separate from the 3mf. If you want to use the settings from projectA on a second object, you need to save projectA as a new project then add the second object. a different way to think of this. STL are like jpg files. You can add one to a document you are typing. If you add that jpg to a different document, you don’t get all the information from the first document you typed. Same thing. 3mf are cura document (roughly). They are what stores the configuration for a specific session. You just have to remember to save the session. if you are looking to retain settings to use for many prints, then you can make a specific profile that can exist globally. Kind of like a favorites. You can set up a number of these to meet you needs. I have “quick and dirty”, “mystic mountains”, and “go make a sandwich” which are draft, lots of support, super quality respectively.

Cura has a "project" format with the extension 3mf. GCode is the output that a device (3d printer) consumes, not the Cura project. While Cura can import GCode, it has nothing specific that requires it to contain Cura configuration information. For example, my CNC uses GCode files. These files are generated by completely different tools (FreeCAD, Universal GCode Sender, Jaysen typing). Cura can open and display some of these files. Not one of them is for a 3d printer. If you want to retain the exact settings you used to generate gcode you need to save the project as a 3mf and the reload the 3mf. That is the only 100% way to get all the setings.

Yes. That is the primary function of the printer. That and fishing/boat parts. that said, 2020v rail is currently hard to print. And before you point out that 2020v is overkill for an enclosure, I would offer that it is not overkill for structural frame for the next printer. One that may just be the exact size of the enclose. Other than the 2020, T nuts, screw, washers, and side panels (polycarbonates) everything else is being printed. Leveraging some Wemos D1 Mini to manage lighting, environment, power, etc. Those will be managed by Octo intercepts or custom Merlin (assuming I decide to just slaughter the mainboard on this thing). “Need” has never really been a critical part of my mental process.

This is like me saying “I needed to buy a 3d printer”! The facts don’t matter and the points don’t count. Parts are already in transit 😜 I figured that if folks managed reliable results with a tub and desiccant I stood a chance with my “over the printer”, enclosed rack. I’m trying to avoid anything more than lighting in that section because lazy. Seem like I stand a chance of success. Thanks.

Well, it’s finished up a while ago. This is no post processing. I’ll take it! Print time was 6:49:41. So all the fields are wrong! as you can see there are still small snotty spots but I think a hot exacto will make those vanish fast.

I keep my house INTERIOR at about 24C in the winter and 25C in the summer. Average humidity here is 83%... in the winter. In the summer 95% is low (here's my personal weather station on my neigbor's dock). I figure I need to keep everything in an enclosure with desicant just to keep it from corroding (salt water is fun!). i start building that next week. I'm hoping that I can keep the humidity down with just desicant. Is that realistic or do I need to consider other methods of humidity reduction? Will be printing ABS, nylon, PETG for the first year.

Thanks Slashee. I really do appreciate that, but for that type of thing I would just reach out and trade dollars with the graphics lady. I'm sure she is working in rastors and would provide them. She was very clear with the terms of our very budget arrangement and what I was allowed to do. She graciously allowed me to play with the PNG to make this coin which is not in our agreement to use the artwork only for web or printed media. She earns her pay and I wil gladly pay her for the expanded work. I do need to chat with you about how you are managing all those colors. I'm still fighting with just 2 at a layer change and you seem to be changing inside the layer. I now have this thing printing. The "time to completion" estimates are all whack. Cura says 7h. Octo has one field at 7h, one at 16h, one at 48h, and one at 24h. The printer is all "I don't know what I'm doing because YOU WON'T LET ME DRIVE ANYMORE" which is as it should be. This should be educational.

I’m just working from PNG that were delivered for web/print media. Inkscape is creating the svg from tracing. I’m sure that’s the problem. If I start using this formal product, I’ll have her design something directly in SVG and make it a “her problem”. This little thing is for a tournament I’m sponsoring. Will get displayed on the corner of my booth and then be glued to my “things I did” rack. That said, I am going to looking at how I can use OpenSCAD as a part of my workflow. There are definitely things it does easier than FreeCAD.

That should raise the head 10.2mm above the last position printed, then move things to align the noz to absolute 0,0 and then shut it all down. if it isn’t doing that then either 0,0 is over the print or something odd is happening.

Well... I figured out how to beat the model into submission on OpenSCAD. Looks like that fixed it. this does change the overall model a bit but it was what I acually wanted so that's a win. I'll have to print it tomorrow. Attached 3mf for reference. ThatGuy Coin v4 .3mf

My Mrs is mumbling about rabbit holes and “cows should be steak”. I’m struggling with the svg being created “good enough” for OpenSCAD. Because this is a branded logo I’m trying to keep it to the graphic artists files without me messing it up. Inkscape just seems to be struggling with it a bit.

This was all done from an SVG as an exercise for me. I don't always do things the smart way as much as "the way I can". That said, OpenSCAD is still a learning tool for me. I did create a new STL using the same workbench (part, not part builder) and using primitive objects and boolean functions. The part slices fine. It has to be a problem with my STL based on the FreeCAD objects. I'll have to start over with my coin. Maybe I'll try OpenSCAD for that. Thanks for the help. Unnamed-Fusion.stl

WFT. That has to be how cura is seeing the STL. I wonder The FreeCAD file is not large, but the scale of it is as this was built from an SVG. All those letters are joined paths. Your RAM and CPU will be ... unhappy. As I'm thinking about this, I wonder if the method of building the shape is the problem. The ring is not an extrusion from the surface of the "coin" disk. The center is a hole. Then the TG is placed in the hole. I'm wondering if somehow the STL is still showing the coin as solid but transparent under the TG. My guess is all the OSX STL tools use a library different from QT/Cura and there's my issue. Hmmm. Let me run some test shapes. ThatGuy Coin V3.FCStd.zip

G91 was in the original post. I missed it in the copy. G1 should use the last speed supplied. OP said that's a print. Since I don't know his print/material settings, this ensures that I'm within safe parameters for their system. While I understand the constant speed indicators, it is a bad habit when writing "generic" move code immediately at the end of the print when you know none of the other settings for the print. I think there are cura variables that could be used for F in these cases but I've not looked into cura guts that far yet. Once to ensure no blob, Once to cut stringing. That and it's what in the defaults for several printers I looked at. When looking it up on line, there was some "prevent pressure build on heated nozzle" theory but who knows. If is not for general "get the head out of the way", but I think it should for melting not PLA. Make it 15. or 25. I have a whole "G90, G0 X0 Y219 z119 F5000" last line in mine (over in Octo) That's a much more complete run at the end of print script. @kaylanichole36 you should use that if nothing else is in the field now. It may take some tweaks to be "perfect" for you but starting with Slashee's code (and the nice comments) will help you understand exactly what it happening.

That gcode section would look more like: G1 E-2 G1 E-2 Z0.2 G1 X5 Y5 G1 Z10 Had to switch from phone to laptop to get it to format. Clearly the forum is not bbcode either. Sorry.