Is my Ultimaker done for good?

[joshh 0]

I'll definitely look into that. Thank you!

 

The only reason to get the olsson block in my opinion is if you want to change nozzles.  It makes it much easier to do so - 60 seconds instead of 20 minutes.  However in your photos it looks like your temp sensor got ruined so I'm pretty sure you will need a new one.

 

[joshh 0]

Here are the pictures of the cleaned hot end. I ordered a new PT100B sensor from fbrc8 and it should be here any day now. Based on these picutres what else may I need? I also tested the fans all of which work. If there is anything else I can assit you while assisting me just let me know and I'll be happy to do it!

Have a good one!

 

Can you post a new picture of your cleaned hot end?

You could email support and ask them for help too.

Usually we prefer for a customer to do the fix himself for multiple reasons.

1) it is much faster! As a customer instead of shipping over your machine (which you should always minimize for risk i.e. DHL) back and forth, there is only 1 shipment involved; the parts.

2) You gain knowledge when fixing the machine, so next time instead of a problem you know how to solve it and you convert your problem into an inconvenience. We have designed the Ultimaker so you can keep it running; instead of summoning warning-signs about voiding your warranty.

We have a manual here that should offer you some more insights. If that is not sufficient our support team can provide you with additional info.

 

Edited June 29, 2015 by Guest

[SandervG 1,521]

Based on the pictures it is hard to tell what the condition is from your nozzle.

In most events you should be able to clean it, whether by an atomic pull or something else but in case this doesn't work a new nozzle may be the only other thing I can see which shows 'some signs of wear', to put it nicely

[gr5 2,172]

Is your heater okay? The rest of your temp sensor is probably *inside* the nozzle/block.

The heater has a 4mm outer diamter and the temp sensor has a 3mm outer diameter. Note the two holes in the brass block. Those are 4mm and 3mm diameter.

Does your heater still slide nicely into the 4mm one? Do you still have the heater in one piece?

The pictures should be taken with a cell phone which can get much closer and zoom in more and get more light in there above the nozzle block - I'm curious now about the nozzle block - you want to remove the threaded screw before inserting or removing heater and sensor. That threaded rod needs a 1.5mm hex wrench so you might want to locate one now while waiting for the new sensor.

By the way I have sensors and heaters I believe that are cheaper than fbrc8 here:

gr5.org/store/

Anyway I recommend you get hold of a drill bit that fits into the 3mm hole and drill out the remaining chunks of temp sensor. I had to do the same thing once. I recommend a 7/64 drill bit, or a 3mm or a #31 drill bit. Using a drill that is smaller than the hole is best to get most of it out and then use the correct size (#31 drill bit) for the final reaming/cleaning is ideal but any of those above 3 drill bit sizes will work.

[gr5 2,172]

Make sure to remove that threaded rod first though! You don't want to drill into that!

I wish you lived in Massachusetts and then you could just bring it over here and I could have you up and running in 30 minutes. I have all the tools and parts you would need.

[gr5 2,172]

By the way I'm sure your nozzle is fine even though it may be ugly. You may have a bit of a clog in there and it may be a challenge to clean it out. But you can't do anything until you heat it up to at least 150C to 180C. Just try the "move material" feature when it's all back together and keep your eye on the temperature to make sure it seems reasonable (if the temp sensor isn't working the heater will go to full power and overheat to 300C). Anyway if you can do move material and plastic is coming out then put quite a bit through to get some fresh plastic in there before cutting power and starting anew. You should "relevel" also as the nozzle may have moved up or down by .1mm or so after working on the head.