UM2 print has gaps / lack of fill

[tenjin 0]

Hi,

I'm trying to print the eNable Raptor Hand.

The first print failed as the density of the print was way off, leaving gaps at the edges.

The settings were a bit higher than as recommended by e-nable:

Layer height: 0.15mm

Fill density: 35%

Supports: none

Platform adhesion type: raft

I've tried to reprint just the pins with these settings:

Layer height: 0.1mm

Fill density: 35%

Supports: none

Platform adhesion type: brim

- and although the quality is a little better it's nowhere near what I would have expected from seeing other example prints on an UM2 on the e-nable site.

I have uploaded a few photos to show the problem.

Does anyone know what might be wrong, and what I can do to fix it?

Thanks

Darren.

Edited June 27, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 2,002]

This looks like underextrusion. Also I can see your shell is 2 passes and they aren't quite touching - also an underextrusion issue.

This can be caused by setting the nozzle width and shell width to values other than .4 and .8 respectively. Alternatively by printing too cold or too fast.

Also by the way I recommend 24% infill as values of 25% generate a different pattern that I don't think is as good. I've printed 6 enable hands and 24% is fine.

Also make sure your top/bottom thickness is around .6mm (6 X .1 layers or 4 X .15 layers or 3 X .2 layers). If you are still having problems please post *all* your ini file settings.

Oh - and I don't recommend raft. Raft is like "last year" (or mabye 4 years ago). Printing directly on glass with brim enabled is much better - you get nicer surface and the problems of parts not sticking to bed have been worked out nicely on glass.

Most important for last:

Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):

20mm/sec at 200C

30mm/sec at 210C

40mm/sec at 225C

50mm/sec at 240C

The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

[tenjin 0]

Hi,

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I will check through my settings and have another go printing.

Thanks again, I really appreciate you taking the time to post a detailed reply.

Regards

Darren.

 

This looks like underextrusion.  Also I can see your shell is 2 passes and they aren't quite touching - also an underextrusion issue.

This can be caused by setting the nozzle width and shell width to values other than .4 and .8 respectively.  Alternatively by printing too cold or too fast.

Also by the way I recommend 24% infill as values of 25% generate a different pattern that I don't think is as good.  I've printed 6 enable hands and 24% is fine.

Also make sure your top/bottom thickness is around .6mm (6 X .1 layers or 4 X .15 layers or 3 X .2 layers).  If you are still having problems please post *all* your ini file settings.

Oh - and I don't recommend raft.  Raft is like "last year" (or mabye 4 years ago).  Printing directly on glass with brim enabled is much better - you get nicer surface and the problems of parts not sticking to bed have been worked out nicely on glass.

Most important for last:

Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):

20mm/sec at 200C

30mm/sec at 210C

40mm/sec at 225C

50mm/sec at 240C

The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion.  Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp.  But don't go over 240C with PLA.

 

[korneel 175]

it could also be the parts are just too small.

not that i would be expecting that from E-Nable, but you never know..

does Cura in the layer view show a complete fill o that area?

if yes, how many hours have you printed with your current teflon piece and at what temp?