UMO Original Heated Bed questions

[LePaul 358]

I finally ordered my Heated Bed Upgrade and have a few questions about having a heated bed...

1) What temperature to use for most prints?

I use ColorFabb PLA/PHA and see they have a few suggestions, but I also wanted to hear from the community on what has worked for them.

[onkelgeorg 36]

on PLA/PHA I use 55 or 60°C. I think everything between 50° and 65° will work. When you want to avoid sagging you may go to the lower end.

May be this is helpful too: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints#heated-bed-temperature

Edit: I only use Colorfabb or faberdashery

Edited September 28, 2015 by Guest

[LePaul 358]

I appreciate your reply.

I ordered the Heated Bed Friday morning from MakerShed and when I checked today, it now lists the item as back-ordered. (I am hoping I got the last one...or not waiting for weeks for one to ship...!)

I've become a ColorFabb Snob....I love their filaments!

[tommyph1208 55]

60 degrees for PLA works nicely for me... Printing on a glass plate covered with PVA glue diluted with water (1 parts glue, 5-10 parts water)...

I heat up the plate to 60 degrees with the "Preheat PLA" option and apply the PVA/water solution with a sponge... The heat quickly dissolves the water, leaving a thing film of glue.

Having an extra glass plate is a nice thing... you can take a print out, and wait for it to cool... Meanwhile you just slap in a new glass plate and print some more.

Edited September 29, 2015 by Guest

[LePaul 358]

How long does that coating last?

Right now, I have too much adhesion with the acrylic bed and blue painter's tape. I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol (otherwise things won't stick)...and after a print is done, getting the print off the build plate is a struggle. I have to remove the build plate and gently pry a scrapper under the print and tug/pry away. This rips the tape and requires a re-apply of tape, wipe with alcohol, etc.

Heated kit arrives Monday. Can't wait to try

[onkelgeorg 36]

btw: I use no glue, no 3dlac, no voodoo - just print on glass and everything is fine. This works for PLA/PHA, colorfabb XT and bronzefill. For copper- and brassfill I use bluetape, because these materials are sticking so well that it is impossible to remove the part from the glass without breaking it.

oh, Monday is bad :(

May be it will arrive Saturday - fingers crossed

[LePaul 358]

I was hoping by the weekend, when I have some free time to do the upgrade.

[tommyph1208 55]

How long does that coating last?

Right now, I have too much adhesion with the acrylic bed and blue painter's tape.  I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol (otherwise things won't stick)...and after a print is done, getting the print off the build plate is a struggle.  I have to remove the build plate and gently pry a scrapper under the print and tug/pry away.  This rips the tape and requires a re-apply of tape, wipe with alcohol, etc.    

Heated kit arrives Monday.  Can't wait to try

 

It lasts maybe 2-3 prints, all depending on how large they are etc (often I'll also rearrange smaller prints to fit onto a nicely coated area of the bed).

But really its so simple to apply and wash off that I don't see it as much of a problem.

Ive heard of these people that print directly on glass, which sounds wonderfully simple... The times I've tried it, Ive gotten absolutely no adhesion at all, so I gave up on that.