Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
joelmongeon

Upgrades complete, what to do next

Recommended Posts

After neglecting my UM2 for about 6 months I decided to get back to it and do a bit of upgrading while I was at it. One of the reasons I stopped using my UM2 was because I was having issues with underextrusions. So after installing and a few test prints I think I have some more work to do, just not entirely sure what, and would appreciate some advice.

I first upgraded my feeder to Roberts feeder. I ended up cannibalizing some M3 bolts from my Printrbot metal simple as I've yet to find a good place to buy some without buying in bulk. The nut that holds the bolt and spring is too large for the opening in the printed part, so I can only loosen the tension so much before the bolt falls off. I think I've tightened it too much though as my last print ground the filament and the last few mm air printed.

I then bought an Olsson block, a new Bowden tube, Teflon insulator and I2k insulator. This upgrade went ok. I had to get a new heat sensor as i was not very gentle trying to remove the old one and ended up cutting the wire. I also had to use a spare steel coupler I had lying around as my original had deformed with the nozzle.

I got my new Bowden tube from gr5 and I think I need to reinstall it as it tries to lean into the print bed. I assume twisting the tube so that it wants to curve straight up and down is ideal before installing it on both ends. I found during testing with it leaning over, that my retractions didn't do anything with the default length.

I notice with printing the ultimaker robot that I needed my filament a lot hotter or else I would get underextrusions. I used to be able to print down to 190 C no problem, now I'm having to print at 220 C for a consistent extrusion. I'm guessing the nozzle from the Olsson block needs higher temp as it is way more exposed to the cooling fans with the stock fan shroud. If I print a new shroud that is designed for the Olsson block, I assume I can print much cooler again. 220C really seems to create strings and artifacts on retractions.

I'm also contemplating printing a replacement for the spring that pushes against the Teflon in the extruder, I noticed Labern had one up on youmagine. Am I missing anything obvious to upgrade next? So far on my to do list is, loosen tension on my feeder, reinstall my Bowden tube, print a new fan shroud to better work with the Olsson block, and possibly print a replacement for the spring in the extruder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can also print a low friction spool holder. Both Robert and I have one on youmagine that mounts like the original one. Or there are heaps of other styles to choose from.

I like to replace the rear fan with sunon MC25060V2-A99 just to make it nice and quiet. There are ducts to help with cooling for that fan 2 like this one.

There isn't much evidence on most mods to prove one is better than another or even helps at all so some comes down to what you believe is best.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you ever had black particles lying on the x and y stepper motor, coming from the belts, it might be a hint of friction between belts and pulleys due to not ideal length of the black spacers between bearing and pulley of the x and y axes. A good upgrade then might be to print your own spacers better adjusted to your individual printer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies guys. Sorry for taking so long to reply, my little one has had a cold and I've not had much time for 3d printing.

So I think I just had some bad filament. It was some grey colorfabb pla that I used last year. I stored it in a watertight Tupperware with rechargeable desiccant packs so I thought it would be ok. I switched to a spool of black colorfabb pla and everything printed too hot. So I'm not printing back at a normal 190C without problems.

Labern, thanks for the links, I've just ordered that fan. I've got some colorfabb xt showing up tomorrow so I'll print out the cooling duct. I have used Roberts spool holder and Braddocks but ended up remixing my own so that it would fit into a small container with desiccant packs to help keep moisture out. I'm in Seattle and in the rainy season (now till April) temps hover around 5C-10C and humidity is usually 100%, so I try to make sure my filament stays dry as much as possible.

20151114_201003.thumb.jpg.d9504f9cce1a2384eab99a4c696b69a1.jpg

Dim3nsioneer, I do see some black particles on my X and Y steppers. Looking at the rods on the back on my printer I see they stick out about 1mm. Is this normal or should I loosen something up and push them in?

20151115_202210_001.thumb.jpg.3e8e20b8b6d146adbf93c90a74a6c52c.jpg

I've got a project in mind that will need my machine to be in excellent shape. I'm hoping I can get this kind of quality again after tuning and upgrades are done.

WP_20150616_007.thumb.jpg.26a2eb95c6fc12a5a575e47cc6707633.jpg

20151114_201003.thumb.jpg.d9504f9cce1a2384eab99a4c696b69a1.jpg

20151115_202210_001.thumb.jpg.3e8e20b8b6d146adbf93c90a74a6c52c.jpg

WP_20150616_007.thumb.jpg.26a2eb95c6fc12a5a575e47cc6707633.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I must be tired... I was putting my nozzle in Roberts nozzle clip when I noticed I have my .6mm nozzle on my UM2 instead of my .4mm nozzle. I'm guessing my extrusion problems have something to do with that ;)

I'll switch them out tomorrow and run some more tests. I'm guessing replacing the nozzle at temp (around 210C) is the way to go?

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a quick thanks to everyone who replied. I'm back up and printing and things are looking fantastic!

Here is my first test with a .25mm nozzle on my Olsson block. I added the cooling duct but have yet to actually solder the new fan into place. My UM2 is in the garage so noise isn't really an issue. I've got it as a backup for now.

20151130_163529.thumb.jpg.2d0f30b0aac0a30650417e43b226d0fb.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Announcements

  • Our picks

    • Architect Design Contest | People
      The goal of this contest is to design a set of people figurines that could be used in such a project to make an area, office or mall seem populated. 
      Think of different types of people in different environments, like walking people, people standing still, working people, and both men and women.
       
      • 6 replies
    • Taking Advantage of DfAM
      This is a statement that’s often made about AM/3DP. I'll focus on the way DfAM can take advantage of some of the unique capabilities that AM and 3DP have to offer. I personally think that the use of AM/3DP for light-weighting is one of it’s most exciting possibilities and one that could play a key part in the sustainability of design and manufacturing in the future.
        • Like
      • 3 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!