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  1. Version 1.0


    A spaceship printed and painted for my toddler who loves "wockets"! This is the gCreate rocket that can be downloaded here: http://www.gcreate.com/#!3d-model---gcreate-rocket/c1k6o Printed with Colorfabb NGen. I cut off the tip of the rocket and used a hot tool to round it off. I then used a lot (maybe too much) XTC 3D to smooth the layer lines and add strength to the print. Finally used some shiny metallic paint and a layer of shellac to seal the deal.
  2. Version 1.0


    My little toddler loves to play with these guys so I decided to print him a huge version of the Ultimaker robot! His first words when seeing the big print was "Big guy!"
  3. Version 1.0


    I used my .25mm nozzle to print this scan data. The results came out quite nice. All of the wrinkles in the hand are nice and clear. A bit of clean up to do with strings between the fingers.
  4. Version 1.0


    This is my first test of my new Olsson block with .25mm nozzle. Quite impressed with the amount of detail I get with a smaller nozzle. .08mm layer height, 185 C temp and 18mm/sec print time. I used Toybuilderlabs cool grey (Esun filament). Only thing slightly bothering me is the color banding. It is not all one color but surface quality is the same across the whole print. I tried printing the same model with simplify 3d and gave up. My retraction settings caused tons of stringing. Going back to Cura and I had no problems!
  5. Version 1.0


    This is a test of lost PLA bronze casting. Instead of creating a mold and a wax copy from that, I directly vested my PLA print in bronze. The results are decent although I now prefer lost wax as it is easier to clean up and remove layer artifacts from wax than it is from PLA.
  6. Version 1.0


    This was a test I made to see how viable lost PLA casting is and at what resolution would I need to print at. These PLA prints were not cast in wax but rather vested and burnt out directly. This saves on a lot fo time and money although the print being cast needs to be perfect. From left to right is a .04mm print, .06mm print and a .1mm print. The .06mm and .1mm prints have clear resoltion lines in the final bronze. You can see some of the original prints at .06mm and .1mm. The striations are still visible in the bronzes. Only the .04mm prints seems to be fine enough not to need any clean up
  7. Version 1.0


    My Emmanuel model printed from my gallery series http://www.joelmongeon.com/Gallery.html Printed on my Ultimaker 2 I took a class this past summer on bronze casting where I created the mold and wax shell for the final bronze piece. I've added more photos showing the process.
  8. There is a thread going on right now dealing with the same thing with a custom 3d printer. Seems very technical and over my head: https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/3dprintertipstricksreviews/AYLkqbn5-k0
  9. Maybe on a related note, a few months ago I posted some prints on the tips and tricks Google group. One of the contributors noted the moiré patterns on the print and had the following to say: "Severe XY stepper clipping, showing up as a distinct moire pattern (eg look in first pic above eyebrows and at forehead and above clavicle) -- probably improper stepper driver current tuning" No idea if this is correct or how to diagnose and fix if it is.
  10. Here is my last Benchy. Rotated at 45 degrees and the stripes are gone. 2 shells, infill at 15%, 20 mm/s @ 180 degrees. I also switched from my black colorfabb pla to my go to Toybuilderlabs cool grey pla. It just always seems to print better for me. Interesting that it seems like a microstepping issue. I'll be following this thread with interest!
  11. I just printed your test: Yep I get ugly artifacts. Both vertical and diagonal. I'm not going to complain as I mostly print organic models and am happy with results like these: (except for a lot of bad overhangs on the underside, which you never see anyway).
  12. Well I kept my infill the same for all of my prints. Just messed around with acceleration and jerk on the firmware side and orientation of the print on the software side. Sorry I didn't actually jot down which one didn't have the zebra stripes but I'm assuming it was the one I printed on a 45 degree angle since I only did that once and there is only one print I've done without the zebra pattern. Can't reprint right now as I've got a few prints in queue already. Maybe in a few days I can come back to this.
  13. Looking back at what I had printed there was one print that did not have the stripes, but had horrible overhangs. I think I printed that one on a 45 degree angle. I printed a lot of these and kept no notes (shame on me I know). I was really hoping to get rid of the artifacts on the hull of the boat so it came out nice and smooth.
  14. I'd be interested in your findings. I've been trying to figure out those zebra stripes on my 3dbenchy test as well. Reducing acceleration and jerk are helping. I'm doing a test with very low settings now.
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