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johnfrank

Parts of the print pulled out or in

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Hello, i have problems with Ultimaker Original Plus lately and i cant achieve a good print. I have level the bed million times, calibated axis another million, oiled the rods but with no results. I ll post some photos printed at 0.15mm, and im hoping your experienced eyes see the problem. Thanks Giannis

4XIxq06.jpg

JsDi4SG.jpg

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Jo1qm2e.jpg

pTMnYuO.jpg

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Hello! Thank you all for your replies and response! Im using Simplify 3D. What i did further is to re calibrate the axis, lubricant again, added cooling fans with external power to the mainboard and passive coolers too. Also i tightened the belts with these ones https://www.youmagine.com/designs/belt-tensioner

I see a lot better prints but i think that you are right SandervG.. It must be a over extrusion problem.

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Have you tried printing with (for example), a book under the left side of your Ultimaker Original? The purpose is to get some more airflow under your Ultimaker to reduce heating.

When your steppers are overheating you could get some layer shifting. I don't think it is the case but it is easy to rule out.

Did you make any alterations to the acceleration speed?

It looks like the issue has gotten worse (or changed), looking at the pictures.

Your surfaces are much smoother, but all of the sudden there is a shift in your layer.

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Hello Sander and thank you for your response. Yes i printed feet to give more height and also i added cooling fans to cool the mainboard. Now i gave a print with 3000 acceleration at XY. I will update soon.

PS i think that the layer shifting got worst because i tighten the belts without changing the acceleration. Now i print with tightened belts, again calibrated axis and new acceleration

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@Dim3nsioneer, what was exactly the solution to your problem when you saw this banding in your prints?

 

It disappeared when I switched from bang-bang heating mode for the bed to PID mode. Most probably it's something in Marlin, maybe connected with the exact power of the heater (which I don't know yet; but it's planned to increase it to 35W). But that was on my UM2. On the UMO it's rather something mechanical or a temperature fluctuation. Colors like white or sky blue are more sensitive to banding than dark colors.

Edited by Guest

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