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Parts of the print pulled out or in


johnfrank

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Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

Hello, i have problems with Ultimaker Original Plus lately and i cant achieve a good print. I have level the bed million times, calibated axis another million, oiled the rods but with no results. I ll post some photos printed at 0.15mm, and im hoping your experienced eyes see the problem. Thanks Giannis

4XIxq06.jpg

JsDi4SG.jpg

OcrOBpG.jpg

Jo1qm2e.jpg

pTMnYuO.jpg

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    UPDATE

    Calibrated again the axis and printed at 0.1 layer height. The problem remain the same. The next thing i will try is to add a cooling fan on the electronics board. I touched one stepper transistor and its veeeeery hot. Maybe is this the problem?

    R4iwSbx.jpg

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    Hello! Thank you all for your replies and response! Im using Simplify 3D. What i did further is to re calibrate the axis, lubricant again, added cooling fans with external power to the mainboard and passive coolers too. Also i tightened the belts with these ones https://www.youmagine.com/designs/belt-tensioner

    I see a lot better prints but i think that you are right SandervG.. It must be a over extrusion problem.

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    Update

    It seems that ove extrusion is not a problem. Looks like layer shifting i suppose.

    vvoWxbf.jpg

    DymBy25.jpg

    dlx0n0o.jpg

    All the walls meant to be flat. I will print now with cura this time. Although i dont think it is software problem

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    Update

    Still same results with Cura. Maybe if i lower down the acceleration from 9000 to 5000 will see some results

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    Have you tried printing with (for example), a book under the left side of your Ultimaker Original? The purpose is to get some more airflow under your Ultimaker to reduce heating.

    When your steppers are overheating you could get some layer shifting. I don't think it is the case but it is easy to rule out.

    Did you make any alterations to the acceleration speed?

    It looks like the issue has gotten worse (or changed), looking at the pictures.

    Your surfaces are much smoother, but all of the sudden there is a shift in your layer.

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    Hello Sander and thank you for your response. Yes i printed feet to give more height and also i added cooling fans to cool the mainboard. Now i gave a print with 3000 acceleration at XY. I will update soon.

    PS i think that the layer shifting got worst because i tighten the belts without changing the acceleration. Now i print with tightened belts, again calibrated axis and new acceleration

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    UPDATE

    Tried to print with same speed for oulines, inner, infills, etc. I dont know if this was a solution but my prints are better. Still i have lines and artifacts. ( i printed with acceleration at 3000)

    g72rkNy.jpg

    XthAA1F.jpg

    e2DJcVw.jpg

    bsu5Bfl.jpg?1

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    This could be an interesting read, look for topics called banding or here.

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    Hello SandervG

    So what i have to do? To change the Z nut? i printed some marvins on different bed positions

    From left to right i describe the marvin positions at bed corners

    Back Left - Back Right - Middle - Front Left - Front Right

    IMG_2534.thumb.JPG.062592504e520f8172b7557a5aeaee47.JPG

    IMG_2534.thumb.JPG.062592504e520f8172b7557a5aeaee47.JPG

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

     

    @Dim3nsioneer, what was exactly the solution to your problem when you saw this banding in your prints?

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    @Dim3nsioneer, what was exactly the solution to your problem when you saw this banding in your prints?

     

    It disappeared when I switched from bang-bang heating mode for the bed to PID mode. Most probably it's something in Marlin, maybe connected with the exact power of the heater (which I don't know yet; but it's planned to increase it to 35W). But that was on my UM2. On the UMO it's rather something mechanical or a temperature fluctuation. Colors like white or sky blue are more sensitive to banding than dark colors.

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    Posted · Parts of the print pulled out or in

    Thank you for your response! I did PID tune to heat bed but with no result :( i cant find the solution.. Do i have to buy an anti backlash nut?

    How much acceleration and speed can the z motor handle?

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