The bumps covering most of the shank only happened at the slower speed. Maybe reduce the printer head heat given the slow extrusion rate? This print fed the filament through very slowly so the filament is getting much more time to melt (10x more than a normal quality print) so hopefully it would be OK at say 200C.
The rings on the shank end also happened only at the slower speed, I just had one big dropoff there when printing the same file at 100% speed. Unfortunately I sanded down all the higher speed prints already so don't have one to post. In some ways they were better; they looked like the way the bowl exterior looks on most of the shank. Looking at the slices at the shank end it is running into problems because its between lines and is having to do partial fills. I can't change the overall wall width as the exterior fits the cornet and the interior would change the sound.
One other odd thing happened on this slow print that has never happened before: the very end of the shank (top layer) completely under-extruded. You can see the jaggy stuff in the picture.
Anyway, I will probably try less nozzle heat and slightly faster than this previous one (but with 1500 acceleration max) for the next print.
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markwal 1
On the shank, it looks like you're either getting extrusion variability (maybe heat) or perhaps over extrusion. Since it is a thin wall, when you look at the layers in the slicer I think you'll see it isn't an evenly divided by your line thickness (probably nozzle width) so it has to estimate by injecting very thin gap fill. It's probably overdoing it a bit. You'll probably get better results if you can figure out either to have the line widths be a little wider (if your nozzle has a flat portion beyond the orifice, that can work) or change the wall thickness so that it is an even multiple of the line width so there is no gap fill error.
As it moves up, it looks like it is being over heated. My guess is that you're getting reflected heat from the nozzle onto the part that the cooling fan isn't keeping up with. One simple way to mitigate that effect is to print two of the part some distance apart (say 30mm or so) on the bed, so that it gives some more part cooling time before adding the next layer.
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