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[niyoki 21]

Solved

Edited February 10, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

100-200h use its enough time for the ptfe coupler to die. Specially at abs temperature. Also check there's no leaks on the head assembly.

Check that your printer doesn't look like:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18531-multiple-problems-see-picture?page=1&sort=#reply-128039

[niyoki 21]

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Edited February 10, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

You do that

Also you could just change the hotend to e3d and use oil to print pla. Works for others.

You could also add a fan focus on the peek/ptfe so there's less heat going up. I do that and my couplers last much longer, ofc my setup it's really different even with the same machine.

If you want a machine that can heat plastic, push it, move it, and work work work, you need spare parts. Mechanical parts wear off. Nozzles wear off. Even pla once open drys and die if not preserved.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

As an alternative to a E3D hotend you may equip your printer with a specialized ABS-dedicated isolator such as the IPM coupler or put a disc of high-temperature resistant plastics such as the I2K coupler between stainless steel coupler and the ptfe.

[neotko 1,417]

As an alternative to a E3D hotend you may equip your printer with a specialized ABS-dedicated isolator such as the IPM coupler or put a disc of high-temperature resistant plastics such as the I2K coupler between stainless steel coupler and the ptfe.

 

Niyoki has an umo+

Edited December 24, 2015 by Guest

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

@neotko @Niyoki Oops, sorry, I was in the wrong thinking mode.

You may try then an additional fan behind the print head blowing to the aluminium plate and the peek parts. I once had a conversation with someone who did this on an UMO and had good success with it.

Edited December 24, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Indeed that works quite well. I do that on my 3 umo+. .

Edited December 24, 2015 by Guest

[jameshs 42]

nozzles clog - it is the nature of the beast. A UMO is an 'experimental' machine and you are expected to tinker with it to keep it in tip top form - I always have spare nozzles so that when they block (which is normally users/filament related) then I swap it out, keep printing and refurbish the old nozzle (actually I have 8 nozzles as I also drill them to different sizes).

I have been really gentle with my original UMO, and bought a second hand one and with a bit of maintenance and care they work flawlessly. Obviously UM got some early things wrong on yours, but these are complicated machines and do occasionally need a few small parts replaced, which is why spares are available and this gorgeous community will help you out.

I don't know of any printers that work flawlessly without maintenance, and many the parts are way are expensive (think takerbot) and impossible for the 'user' to fix.

You bought a really good tinkerer's machine, so I guess you should expect to have to tinker

PS - in my opinion, for what you get (and I own loads of machine shop tools) I am still amazed at how good value a printer is and what it can do for the price - original purchase and consumables.

[niyoki 21]

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Edited February 10, 2016 by Guest

[jameshs 42]

You can just replace the nozzle - I do it on a daily basisi & posted a youtube video (search nozzle ultimaker)

You can use dual on a UMO+ but need a second piwer supply (so I believe) as the hb and one nozzle use all the available power.

[neotko 1,417]

Indeed to use the dual extruder you need:

The dual extruder kit (or source all the parts)

And a 280W power supply.

Read the posts since here:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/8466-ultimaker-origional-and-dual-extruders#reply-94471

Anyhow dual extrusion won't give great quality prints as its atm. Search the forum about that topic.