How to setup software firmware for the Ultimaker 2 controller board latest rev 2.1.4

[KASHMIR 0]

I really need some help and advice, so any comments would be greatly appreciated.

I am currently building my 3D Printer, it will be somewhat similar to ultimaker 2 extended

but not exactly.

I would like to know when i finally assemble the frame structure, and then hook up all the wires

to the controller, what is the next step. I don't know what to do.

How will i setup the software according to my 3d printer configurations limits, x , y, z travel min max

extruder, heatbed, fans,etc.

Usually limit switches are installed where on the x,y, and z axis, is this the 0,0,0 origin ?

And home position location should be where ?

i would really appreciate if you can help me out, i am very confused

as simple as possible, i hope it will be simple.

Thank You

Edited May 25, 2016 by Guest

[00D00B 58]

Hi,

You're talking about a "somewhat similar to ultimaker 2 extended

but not exactly". Does it mean that you use an UM motherboard or it's an other one ?

[KASHMIR 0]

The controller board i will be using is the Ultimaker 2 v2.1.4

[00D00B 58]

Ok then you should probably just connect the motherboard right to your computer and in Cura you can click on "Machine" > "Install default firmware".

Then it should automaticly install the firmware you chose (in function of the UM model you did select).

No matter if your custom machine hasn't the same dimensions, you can change it later

[KASHMIR 0]

ok, but how will i change it ? can you give me some advice ?

[00D00B 58]

In Cura when the firmware is installed go again on "Machine" > "Machine Settings" and you'll have a little window with all infos about the machine structure. You can change anything you want by this way and the plate size will also change in the software.

[KASHMIR 0]

OK, that sounds great, i will definitely try it out when i finally receive my board because

if i can setup my 3d printer just by using cura that would be more simple. It's just because

i spent a lot of time searching and came across Marlin, Arduino and pronterface and was geting confused as to what i should use. For example , can i test the board to check that the step motors run and turn accordingly ( just alone without the shaft connected to linear rods ) once i power up the board, and only those motors are connected and the others are not ( i.e fans, heatbed, heater cartridge, sensor ) or do i need to have all connected.

thanks

[00D00B 58]

Well, normally I think you should have it connected but I've never did this step so I cannot help you that much, sorry :/

[eldrick 65]

Consider using Tinkergnomes modified firmware - it adds a lot of functions that would be useful to you in setting up your machine.

[gr5 2,177]

Everything above is great but I would also recommend getting pronterface and haveing that be the first software you use to calibrate steppers, switches, and so on. It monitors stuff like that live through USB and you can adjust steps/mm and move the stepper just 2mm to begin with and do calibration and do all that without having to home any axes and test the limits without having to power up the servos:

Get pronterface here. It's free:

http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

[KASHMIR 0]

In Cura when the firmware is installed go again on "Machine" > "Machine Settings" and you'll have a little window with all infos about the machine structure. You can change anything you want by this way and the plate size will also change in the software.

 

how about the location of the limit switches ?? is that controlled in the firmware ??

[gr5 2,177]

The firmware (not cura) does homing. Cura just writes out a simple gcode to tell the printer to home. The printer's firmware is supposed to know which direction to move the axis to hit the homing limit switch and which switch goes with which axis home position and once homing is complete the firmware should know the position of home: (0,0) on an ultimaker. Something like (-100, -100) on a delta printer typically.

[00D00B 58]

gr5 has been faster than me !

[KASHMIR 0]

The firmware (not cura) does homing.  Cura just writes out a simple gcode to tell the printer to home.  The printer's firmware is supposed to know which direction to move the axis to hit the homing limit switch and which switch goes with which axis home position and once homing is complete the firmware should know the position of home: (0,0) on an ultimaker.  Something like (-100, -100) on a delta printer typically.

 

Thanks for the info

But i am new to all of this, I designed the entire project of my 3D Printer in Solidworks.

It took me about a month to complete, with whatever free time i had available.

I will try and post a pic as to how my printer currently looks.

There are delays in completing it , because the shipping of some components takes forever.

I will be using the Ultimaker controller board latest version for the hardware.

But somewhat confused as to how will i proceed when i connect all the cables to the board.

Can someone guide me step by step ??, i would appreciate that.

My printer will have somewhat slight differences as to where the centers of the rods and limit switches are compared to the Ultimaker 2 extended plus.

Do i just start Cura software and hope that all will fall into place.

I am not sure about that.

I will also try and post a top view cad drawing showing the dimensions of the rod centers , heatebed, nozzle assemble in all 4 corners ( maximum movement before any interference occurs )

Maybe this would help in someone trying to help me.

[KASHMIR 0]

As promised here is the ongoing project.

I am using Aluminum extrusion profiles series, aluminum L brackets, all Stainless steel

fasteners, many components were custom designed and i outsouced the maching

all in Aluminum with anodized finishes. Most of the components I ordered are from MISUMI and Mc MasterCarr. For the Z axis i am going with a linear V rail system ( OpenBuilds Type but my gantry plate is custom made),  i have not assembled the glass and alimuinum plate holder yet, waiting for copper grease tube .It is far from finished, but I am eager to see the final results. There will be frosted panels mounted on all the sides, i have outsourced those as well along with some led lighting to give it a nice overall look.

Edited June 23, 2016 by Guest

[KASHMIR 0]

I have attached TOP VIEW of my 3D printer project with some key dimensions.

they are not same as ULTIMAKER 2 Extended

[00D00B 58]

Even if they're not the same, you can easily change all distances right in Cura by creating a new machine.

Look at the screen again :

As you can see, you can change your XYZ max print dimensions and the head size so you you have a little shift with your homing switches you can try to adjust everything by there

[gr5 2,177]

Before you start worrying about cura - you want to make sure Marlin knows where (0,0) is and which way your limit switches go (normally open versus normally closed), which way to step to move the head towards home and which way to move it away from home.  You can set all these things in some of the marlin builders.  Since you have UM2 board you need a Marlin compatible with that.

If you are uncomfortable with building Marlin you probably don't have to.  Instead you can just reverse the 2 wires on either twisted pair on a stepper to reverse the direction.

Anyway the first thing you want to do after you hook up a stepper is to install pronterface which you can get for free here:

http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

Hook up your computer with pronterface to the UM2 circuit board with a USB.  There will be lots of values you can update using pronterface such as "steps/mm" and you can view those values before you move an axis.

Before you home any axis try moving it a small amount.  STart with 1mm then 10mm and see if it is correct distance.  If not adjust steps/mm values.  If wrong direction adjust by swapping wires as I said.  Then test limit switches using pronterface and by pusing on the switch.  See if it works.  Only after doing that for x,y,z do you try the home command.

From pronterface you can also test that the PT100 temp sensors are working.  If they aren't you can't really do anything with the printer as Marlin shuts you down/blocks you from doing much of anything.

Edited June 23, 2016 by Guest