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Posted (edited) · The rebuild begins..

I recently purchased a UMO+ (EDIT: UMO with Heated bed and ulticontroller) that needed some work.

I will be upgrading it to a dual extrusion UM2 + printhead head, UM2 sliding blocks and gt2 belts and gears and don't forget a fully enclosed build chamber.

Any recommendations would be great

Stay tuned

20160613_150138.thumb.jpg.054ec29ffd6ae77f20b3d3d8e95584c2.jpg

20160613_150138.thumb.jpg.054ec29ffd6ae77f20b3d3d8e95584c2.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Posted (edited) · The rebuild begins..

That wood panel (not the white) it's a umo (non plus) frame.

Oh that white frame it's also umo not plus.

Edited by Guest

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Posted · The rebuild begins..

There is no UM2+ dual head. If you want dual extrusion you have to use UM2 (non plus) designs.

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Posted (edited) · The rebuild begins..

That wood panel (not the white) it's a umo (non plus) frame.

Oh that white frame it's also umo not plus.

 

Ah i never realised there was a difference in frames , I thought the LCD & heated bed add on basicly converted the UMO to the UMO+ ?

Edited by Guest

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Posted · The rebuild begins..

There is no UM2+ dual head. If you want dual extrusion you have to use UM2 (non plus) designs.

 

I know.. however thats not to say a 2+ Head cant be made dual nozzle.

Stamping out an hole and fitting an extra olsson block. Sadly with the help of some chinese parts will be no worries :)

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Posted · The rebuild begins..

It isn't hard to puta umo+ board on a umo frame, you will need to cut some wood parts forthe board connectors and drill someholes for the board screws. Also the endstops have less room to move on umo frame, but nothing hard. Ofc you should drill/cut before painting. Check/print the left & bottom parts to see where the screws/holes go.

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Posted · The rebuild begins..

It isn't hard to puta umo+ board on a umo frame, you will need to cut some wood parts forthe board connectors and drill someholes for the board screws. Also the endstops have less room to move on umo frame, but nothing hard. Ofc you should drill/cut before painting. Check/print the left & bottom parts to see where the screws/holes go.

 

all of the drilling was done by the previous owner, but before i disassembled it i it was fully functional and the end stops were all in the correct positions,

However it will be a little more work getting the ends stops to pick um2 sliding blocks

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Posted · The rebuild begins..

20160622_175228.thumb.jpg.205ec5ad50a00d60be486f18408c124f.jpg

From what ive seen im the first to do this. The motion system is great.

Still waiting for amplifier boards for the pt100s to arrive before i can print

20160622_175228.thumb.jpg.205ec5ad50a00d60be486f18408c124f.jpg

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Posted · The rebuild begins..

Oh you bought that hotend on aliexpress jennyprinter?? If it's the one that uses the bowden all the way into the heaterblock... Well, expect bad thinks, really bad thinks after some print hours. Also, check the pt100 since mine got burn... The only usefull part from that guys was 2 parts of aluminium, I had to replace everything b ly the real stuff to make it work 'perfect'.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17068-making-your-own-ultimaker-what-not-to-buy-on-china-stores-personal-experience?page=2#reply-140223

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Posted · The rebuild begins..

Be careful that the cover for the build plate (wood piece) doesn't rub against the back of the printer...on my Heated Bed Upgrade, it does. :(

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