Filament Change time to short

[klaasie 1]

Hello

I've got a UM2+ extended for two months now, but got a small problem with changing the filament

When i go true material/change in the menu the nozzle get warmed up and after a few seconds the feeder pull the filament back, but not long enough so when the feeder stop i see the filament about 20cm from the feeder in the bowden tube, so i have to pull the last 20cm out by hand. And when i put the new filament in i wait till i see the filament by the first bowdenclip and puss the button so the feeder speedup but than it slow down about 20cm before the nozzlehead and than very slowly it moves the filament to the nozzle but that (20cm) takes almost a minute

He does that the last few days after i flashed from tinkergnome 16.03.1 (used that for more than a month) back to the orginal cura 15.04.6 firmware

I hope someone can help me??

Thanks

[gr5 2,172]

Why leave tinker? It's great.

Well did you possibly get the "2go" firmware on a um2? I assume not. You can do "reset to factory settings" as those distances I believe are stored on the eeprom but note that you will lose all your "odometer" readings such as "hours printing" so write those down for posterity first.

Also note that for removing filament you can just cut power and pull it out (you might have to heat the head to 150C or hotter first).

and for inserting you can use "advanced" "insert" and then cancel when it slows down and switch to "move material" to speed things up (or again, cut power and just shove it in there - I prever "move material" aka "move" in tinker marlin).

[ultiarjan 1,223]

With or without the issue I would always advice to use this thing during a change.... allows you to easy pull out filament. Also it happens sometimes that there's a string with blobs of plastic at the end of the filament that gets stuck in the feeder otherwise...

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2

with regard to the length issue, did you check if your e-steps are off?

(should not be the case if you had the original 2+ firmware before you used the tinker firmware but won't hurt to check)

check in tinker firmware:

Advanced/preferences/motion settings/axis steps per mm

E should be 369 if you have a standard + machine.

[klaasie 1]

Thanks for the fast reply gr5 and ultiarjan

ultiarjan i checked the e-steps with tinker firmware and indeed it was way off. It was on 262, changed it to 369 what you said and it's working as it should thanks

The other steps are on X=80, Y=80, Z=200 is that correct for a UM2+ extended??

Do i have to recalibrate my Simplify3d settings?

Also because of the wrong e-steps when i loaded a gcode generated with Simplify3d i got a message Error: Tried printing out of printing area and when i loaded i file created with CURA everything was oké , that was with the tinker firmware and with the Original firmware it worked fine with s3d and cura so therfore i stayed with the Original firmware. So now i'm back to Tinker i love the info on the screen when i'm printing

I have also a question about S3D when i have the usb cable connected and i start S3D the UM2+ get a reset and also when i close S3D the printer get a reset, and that's not funny when you are printing, do you know a setting what is responsible for this or is this normal with Simplify3D, it dusn't do it with Cura

Thanks

[ultiarjan 1,223]

the 80, 80, 200 is correct, if you calibrated with the wrong e steps you probably have corrected for underextrusion, so using the same settings will cause overextrusion. say for example you corrected the flow to 140% to compensate for the wrong e step than you should use 100% flow again.

It's advised to print from SD card, not via USB, it's simply more stable. Not sure what you mean by a reset, it's probably just the printer connecting to the PC (the lights go of for a sec.), you just should not do it during a print.