neotko is an extreme expert at UMO - more so than me. So read his advice carefully. Some other ideas though more specific to your question - if you do retractions that are too long the heat moves upwards with each retraction. And future retractions then pull the heat higher up each time. If it gets above the white teflon part it's a problem. Also make sure your bowden is all the way in so there isn't much room for filament to expand above the teflon.
What is your retraction distance? I use 4.5mm on UMO but my bowden is nice and tight (no play). If you do get a new teflon, get it from 3dsolex as theirs is a newer material that is more durable.
Consider maybe putting a small fan blowing on the upper block area to keep the teflon cool. UM did exactly that in the UM2 (the rear fan).
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neotko 1,417
By the look of the barrel near the aluminium block, you already had a leak there. Did you solve it by tightening the nozzle? Or did you rotated the peek with the barrel to close the leak?
The think it's that to clean that you might need to assemble all, set at 90C and pull that filament (if it's pla 80-90 and 110-120 or so for abs).
My theory it's:
You did tight the barrel (hense the marks on it) to close a leak. That could make that the barrel did screw futher in the top peek, pushing the coupler and deforming it overtime. By the look of all I think you just need a new ptfe coupler. The best way to test a coupler it's to pass some filament on it (with the coupler outside ofc) and 'spin' the coupler to see if woobles. If woobles it's damaged, if the filament has a hard time to go in also it's damaged and if it's brown it's also damaged.
Ofc it could just be a clog of dust and dirt that deposits overtime inside the nozzle. To clean that you need a few good atomics, like 8-15 until all its as clean as a dish on sunday.
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