Leaky print head and bad prints

[bsilverwood 8]

First I want to thank the community for assisting me with getting me this far with my new printer. I'm learning a lot so far with the UMO+

My current dilemma is that I appear to have sprung a leak . I am also getting a lot of blobs/zits and stringing going on.

Talking with neotko, I'm going to refer to this thread: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/22351-ultimaker-original-plus-help

Any other advice anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated.

[bsilverwood 8]

Also - Is there settings in Cura that I could change that would mitigate the oozing after the print? Is there something that does a retraction of the filament once the print is completed?

[neotko 1,401]

Before cura, lets fix that hotend.

I can't see clearly where's the issue, could you take out the fancap and make photos to see how it's all aligned?

The goo on the nozzle could show that the nozzle needs to be tightened (while hot and careful not to break it like the other post).

But also I would like to see if the barrel/nozzle are correctly installed, because that can change the hot area and create printing problems.

[bsilverwood 8]

Neotko - This is my project for tonight. As soon as I get home I will take off the fan cap and take better photos to post on here.

You can see on the top of the bock where the nozzle goes into has a more metallic silvery discoloration (as well as along the sides of the nozzle). Gotta love Ultimaker for providing us a spool of filament, but the color choice for troubleshooting is less then to be desired...

[neotko 1,401]

True true, zooming in it has a lot of silver goo there. Well, to take out the goo and reassemble all try this.

With fan cap off

a) Heat to 90-110 and with a tweezers pick the goo of the top and the bottom, at that temp it should be easy to remove the bits outside.

b) Since you already are at atomic pull temp, do an atomic

c) Raise the temp at 150C

d) Unscrew the nozzle (HEAT gloves or something to be 100% sure you don't get burned)

e) Leave the nozzle where it doesn't melt the surface, brass cooldown fast don't worry much.

f) Now screw in the barrel with the peek half a turn (so the next time the nozzle it's installed it will be less chances of leaving a gap). Remember this step it's at 150C so any pla residue can be moved while screwing the barrel, also while hot the barrel should rotate without friction WITH the peek.

g) Install the nozzle while hot, but don't over tight it. Just 'enough' (I know it's a hard thing to describe, but since you pushed the barrel in, if it leaks after this it will be easier to just tight it a bit more without problems (while hot ofc).

Any question? Shoot.

Edited September 21, 2016 by Guest

[yellowshark 148]

Hi if you have or can borrow some “ isopropanol Alcohol 99% Isopropyl liquid cleaner" it is great at getting filament off the hot end. It is used mainly for cleaning electrical contacts but I tried it on the hot end and it works a peach - recommended to me by my American friends,

[bsilverwood 8]

Hi if you have or can borrow some “ isopropanol Alcohol 99% Isopropyl liquid cleaner" it is great at getting filament off the hot end. It is used mainly for cleaning electrical contacts but I tried it on the hot end and it works a peach - recommended to me by my American friends,

 

This will be option 2 if I can't get all the excess off via Neotko's solution.

Just have to remember to ensure it is all dried off before raising the temp on it! LOL

[bsilverwood 8]

OK - Problem doing the atomic pull on my UMO+

I can't seem to get the Bowden Tube out from the print head.

[bsilverwood 8]

When I cranked up the heat to 150, I was able to pull out the Bowden Tube.

Neotko - Step "f" - what do you mean by the barrel? Do you mean the block? If so - I can't really move it due to the sensor and heater attached. I mean I could remove it and do a full turn I suppose.

[bsilverwood 8]

OK -

I just replaced the hot end block, tube, and nozzle and I am STILL getting leakage over the top of the heating block.

Very curious to what I am doing wrong here... I assume it is something obvious that I am just missing.

[bsilverwood 8]

One of the questions I have is that the block is "shorter" then the combined shafts of the nozzle and the isolator tube. So, should the isolator tube be tightened till the point it is flush with the heater block?

The pictures in the installation guide are not very clear on this...

[bsilverwood 8]

Attaching images. I'm not sure what else I can do to eliminate these leaks! The one on the top of the bock seems to be better now, but the nozzle one is a real PITA.

The material is coming down all over the nozzle and screwing up a print. I get maybe 30 minutes into use and it's all gummed up again.

Please I need some advice here. What am I doing wrong?

Edited October 10, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,401]

I need to see the barrel/alublock/nozzle without the fan cap to see if you left room to do point g. Can you make a photo without the fancap?

[bsilverwood 8]

I think I got this figured out. While the nozzle was still hot (approx 150 degrees) I was able to turn it still about a quarter turn. All leaked residue ended up burning off and sealed the unit.

Long term, I am not sure how this will work out (the self sealing aspect). I figure if I swap out nozzles I will leak again. Also, the block is now almost perpendicular to the fan housing instead of perpendicular as all the diagrams I see online show it. I assume this won't become an issue?

[neotko 1,401]

Probably that turn closed the gap between the barrel/nozzle. The extra burned residue will stay outside around the outside barrel/nozzle between the aluminum block.

If doesn't leak anymore great. I would do a couple atomics to remove any burned filament that could have leak inside. Just in case and to avoid future clogs.

[bsilverwood 8]

Probably that turn closed the gap between the barrel/nozzle. The extra burned residue will stay outside around the outside barrel/nozzle between the aluminum block.

If doesn't leak anymore great. I would do a couple atomics to remove any burned filament that could have leak inside. Just in case and to avoid future clogs.

 

I have done a few of them, if anything to get the practice down. Thank you again neotko for all your assistance with this!

[rowiac 50]

Also, the block is now almost perpendicular to the fan housing instead of perpendicular as all the diagrams I see online show it. I assume this won't become an issue?

 

The rotation of the heater block shouldn't matter as long as you aren't putting undue stress on the wires. Mine is rotated at a slight angle from when I tightened it to stop leaks.