Simplify3D Profile for Ultimaker 3 - Basic PLA/PLA (Work in progress)

[neotko 1,417]

First of all, sorry for all the CAPS

RC1.3 Profile for S3D for DUAL PLA

(it can work with single too but read the notes)

Go to the end of this post for Latest Update and Download

Important STUFF

a) One of the amazing stuff of Cura is that he plans when to cold/heat each Core so when one is about to finish the other is ready to print. Is an amazing feature that can't be replicated on Simplify3D. There's some code on toolchange script that allows you to cooldown one Core while the other prints, and then when the tool change occurs you will have to wait until the new core reach the new temperature. This means, that unless Simplify3D copies Cura idea, it will never be able to print as fast as Cura, just because all the delays waiting to heat/cold the Cores.

b) If you comment the heat/cool sequence, be careful not to use materials that can burn inside the cores, that's never a good idea (IE PVA, and pretty much any filament...). So don't do that unless you really know what you are doing.

c) Speed is slow, but is close to what a Normal Profile on Cura would use. You can play with temperature to print faster. S3D 'Auto' stuff doesn't change half of the required settings. So remember to adjust the temperature, and ALSO, remember to edit the toolchange heat/cold TEMPS or you will have a problem.

d) Simplify3D lame scriptting system doesn't allow to use Temperature placeholders on the Toolchange, so that area need's manual editing if you change any temperature.

e) If you use only ONE core for your print, remember to edit heat/cold of the second Core to 0, and also Edit the temperature of the Right (second) Core to 0 so it doesn't stay hot while printing (or just remember to take out the filament on the second core so it doesn't burn overtime).

f) Toolchange retraction distance is done inside the toolchange script, so you will see it as 0, but the distance is commented and explained (a bit) inside the Toolchange Script area, edit that if you need.

g) Cura now has a cool setting that allows to change acceleration depending on what is printing. There's some tricks to do the same on S3D, but I would need a to Clone Myself to be able to make time for that. So for now, you don't have it.

Problems

Don't LOWER the BRIM/SKIRT lenght. When it starts to print you will think 'IS NOT EXTRUDING OMG' don't panic, is normal. Cura uses a trick to push more filament after doing the 'heat-prime-corneto' after a G280, but since Cura knows what Jedi does, they only do it 'once'. So, to fix that the easier painless way is to use a really long Skirt/Brim, OR edit manually the Gcode and ADD a G280 after the first toolchange...

ALSO. Don't change the Skirt so it only works on one of the extruders, or, as explained. If you don't want that it dirties your print, just make the distance of the skirt bigger. But this is unavoidable (unless you prefer to edit manually the gcode before printing it)

Enjoy!

Made posible by & & for letting us play with their machines

Final Note

For the first months I would highly suggest to stay away from S3D. Cura has better know-how of UM3 Core system, has an amazing amount of options to improve the prints for Dual/PVA and currently I think is the best Dual slicers on the market. Many will try to copy, but until S3D copy them, we will need to use Cura most of the time.

Disclaimer

REMEMBER THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS, IF YOU THINK THIS IS LOAD & USE YOU WILL FELL VERY DISAPPOINTED.

REMEMBER READ ALL BEFORE USING IT OR IT WILL BE A PAIN TO USE.

Update 20th Oct

New version 1.2 of the profile. Fixed A LOT of retract-tract issues. The other version grinds too much the filament. The problem of needing skirts to start to print is still there, but now it don't grind the filament due extrude/retract amount errors.

Biggest issue ATM is that S3D doesn't retract after doing the wipe tower or ooze shield before moving to the print area, is really really WEIRD, and leaves strings. I need to dig how to fix it because I don't see how or why it does that.

This Version Cools-down to 185 and heats to 190-195. Tested using Orange & Black Ultimaker filaments (the only 2.85mm filament I have) So far is delivering 'ok-ish' prints. But the string issues are driving me a bit nuts.

Update 22 OCT

This profile is quite more stable, I had to remove many lines and rewrite again and again, but after 2 days printing samples I think I got an 'almost' decent profile. It prints, it purges and it doesn't need so much skirt, but it won' be perfect. To have a clean clean purge S3D would need to allow to remove the G92 E0 it does after finishing the scripts, this causes the extruder to forget the position and if I (or you) add a retract to leave the cores without dripping before printing, it will need a MUCH longer (6mmprint material) to start extruding, or manual editing. So, for now it works as it works (not perfect).

Also made a moving sequence 'alike' Cura does to avoid the big filament Purge that it does when it prepares each core to print, it works, but again, not super clean. If you can manual pick the first strings, well better for you. Also until Simplify3D programmers implement the info explained by @Daid this days, it will take time for them to catch up to the new printer.

This is 1.25 is a full port of Normal quality from Cura for PLA/PLA. The most important change is that now I added a replace script to S3D to make something 'alike' Cura. Basically is a dirty port of the acceleration/yerk control that Cura does. So for future notes, depending what you print, you might want to adjust this (or not).

 

{REPLACE "\n; skirt\n" "\n;skirt\n\nM204 S3000.00\n\nM205 X20.00\n"}{REPLACE "\n; raft\n" "\n;raft\n\nM204 S2000.00\n\nM205 X10.00\n"}{REPLACE "\n; outer perimeter\n" "\n;outer perimeter\n\nM204 S500.00\n\nM205 X5.00\n"}{REPLACE "\n; inner perimeter\n" "\n;inner perimeter\n\nM204 S2000.00\n\nM205 X15.00\n"}{REPLACE "\n; gap fill\n" "\n;gap fill\n\nM204 S1000.00\n\nM205 X10.00\n"}{REPLACE "\n; solid layer\n" "\n;solid layer\n\nM204 S500.00\n\nM205 X5.00\n"}{REPLACE "\n; infill\n" "\n;infill\n\nM204 S3000.00\n\nM205 X20.00\n"}{REPLACE "\n; bridge\n" "\n;bridge\n\nM204 S1500.00\n\nM205 X10.00\n"}{REPLACE "\n; support\n" "\n;support\n\nM204 S1000.00\n\nM205 X10.00\n"}{REPLACE "\n; dense support\n" "\n;dense support\n\nM204 S500.00\n\nM205 X5.00\n"}{REPLACE "\n; layer end\n" "\n;layer end\n\nM204 S3000.00\n\nM205 X20.00\n"}

 

Since Simplify3D already has the place holders for all the parts is going to print, this script changes the acceleration / yerk depending on what it will print, just like Cura 2.3.0 but without sexy formulas, and to change it you need to actually edit by hand. M204 is the acceleration and M205 is the yerk settings.

ALSO this script should improve the print quality of any other Ultimaker, but I'm not sure if the board can actually handle so many instructions, UM3 seems to be able to read much more instructions/second without any stuttering.

Download the FFF

- Normal (Fine) Quality Profile PLA/PLA

- Draft (But more than ok) Quality Profile PLA/PLA

Update 23 OCT

Added a second profile download for a second quality option (Draft but Fine)

So enjoy the two basic profiles for Normal (almost Fine) and Fast (But more than ok) Quality.

Note

This profile where made using Orange and Black from Ultimaker, so for different PLA's you might need to readjust the temperatures.

Retractions are cut to the bare minimum. Had no grinding on filament for prints of 4-8h with the feeder not on the middle but less tension. Something in between of 1/4 and 2/4 spring force.

Edited October 23, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

New profile RC1.2 uploaded at the end of the first post.

Edited October 20, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Well new RC1.3 seems to be able to print

- Fixed extrusion at start from both cores, now it doesn't more than 1-2 skirt/brims. But sometimes leaves a drop while doing the first purge, so trying to fix that.

- Lowered the retractions by a few thousands to adapt it to 2.85/um3 feeder. I'm not use to not be able to do as many retractions as I want. Is a like relearning everything. Because now you also need to thing that there will be forced long retractions due toolchange. So all has to be ok to work.

So far, so good. For the current test brims/skirt are off.

[neotko 1,417]

Update 22 OCT

New profile 1.25 to download with Acceleration Yerk control and much improved starting sequence. Read on main topic

[neotko 1,417]

Update 23 OCT

Updated a second profile for fast prints with good quality. I might not add more profiles since it is very time consuming and I need to focus on my real job.

Enjoy and share prints!

PS. I'll upload everything soon to Youmagine just in case my dropbox links fail.

Edit: All FFF profiles uploaded to Youmagine

Edited October 23, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

I asked Simplify3D to send me their UM3 profile that they are sending to users.

Please, DONT USE IT FOR PVA BB CORE PRINTS for now, until they fix it or improve their S3D Heat/Cold sequence

Also:

I been checking their profile and it has one good thing. They did the toolchange system and starting sequence without using G280 (the Gcode that orders the printer to purge the big poop of filament).

There's only one problem, they have cut down Acceleration SO MUCH

{REPLACE "; changing to normal tool\nT0\n" "; changing to normal tool\nT0\nM204 S1500\nM205 X15\n"}

{REPLACE "; changing to pva tool\nT1\n" "; changing to pva tool\nT1\nM204 S400\nM205 X5\n"}

They have this on their script. This means that for First Core the maximum acceleration will be 1500 and yerk 15, but for the Second Core it will be 400 and 5 yerk. This is SO FREAKING SLOW, and also, a flow so low will cause problems.

But the main reason to stay away from this Profile is that it can actually damage your PVA core

Why? Because Cura has a 'intelligent' Heat/Cold sequence that calculates how much time the unused Core will stay 'hot' so they plan ahead and cool/heat as needed so you don't need to wait for them to heat up.

Why can this Damage your PVA BB Core? Because they don't cool the Unused Core, because they don't have a intelligent Heat/Cool sequence like Cura. Probably they will add that on the future? Who knows.

I have printed on S3D with my profile PLA/PVA and leaving the second core HOT too much time can burn PVA and clog your Core, and most important, you could damage it.

Why you can damage it?

Imagine that you use PVA for just the first 15-30 layers of a 1500 layers object? All that 1470 layers where the PVA isn't used, the Core will stay HOT all the time, and all the PVA inside will burn and go brown over time.

Can it work? OFC! Everything can work! Will it clog hard if you don't do Atomic after every print? Most definitely!

So please... Until Simplify3D releases a new heat/cold sequence on his profile, stay away from it for PVA as second core or you can actually damage your core or clog it hard (and that's not easy, but leaving it hot without extruding for long periods of time isn't how Ultimaker intended it to work).

Edited November 11, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

BTW for normal PLA print single extruder, and dual PLA/PLA if you don't mind having the second extruder hot all the time the Simplify3D support sent me this profile for UM3. I like their starting Gcode, but they don't have any coolddown, not even a basic 10C on the core change, that print faster ofc, but will increase dripping and PLA also can burn if left idle too much time. So 'Mind the gap'!

Simplify3D sent this profile the 11/NOV/16 so if you have something new I can update this link.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uajqa25k3l7740j/Ultimaker_3_PLA_RightExtruder_rev3.fff.zip?dl=0

[element7721 3]

I'll add a few more observations to this thread. I've been using S3D with my Ultimaker 3 since the day I got it. Both of the above profiles work well, and I also got a profile directly from the simplify3d support people that worked very well. I've already printed close to 50 parts and I've got simplify3d dialed in really nicely now.

There seems to be some concern above about how long you can leave an extruder heated, so I'll go ahead and add my findings. I've tested this quite extensively on a few different printers, so I'll try to give some facts from my tests. I have quite a few different printers and have been printing in PLA for years. PLA usually has a melting temperature of around 175C, so if you're using 190-195C on your 3D printer, you're just slightly above that value. I've never had any issues with PLA burning unless I tried to take it above 230-250C for long periods of time. There's many other studies out there that also confirm this - you really have to be above 230C for a long period of time to see any burning with PLA, and you shouldn't be printing anywhere near that temperature under normal circumstances. So I wouldn't be concerned at all about leaving your PLA heated to 190C for a few hours. I've never had any issues doing that with the many other printers I own, so unless the UM3 has some terrible temperature distribution or has some other design flaw that I am not aware of, there really shouldn't be any concerns about PLA in the nozzle.

PVA on the other hand has always been a tricky material. Personally, I far prefer using ABS/HIPS or PLA/PETG, but I've also been using PVA a lot for the last 2 years. I can't even count how many spools of PVA filament I've gone through.. There are a lot of things that you have to watch out for with PVA. It soaks up moisture from the air like crazy, so take care to store it in a sealed bag with a desiccant when you aren't using it. I've found I get the best extrusion at around 215-220C for most of the PVA spools I've used, which is just above the melting point for the material. But PVA also has one big disadvantage compared to all the other materials mentioned above - it can start to undergo pyrolysis anytime it is above around 200-210C. Pyrolysis is a reaction where the material essentially burns and becomes a solid charred substance with some gas and liquid byproducts. And yes, you read that right - the normal extrusion temperature is above the pyrolysis temperature, hence the problem. Now this reaction doesn't happen immediately. From my tests, it usually takes around 20-40 minutes at 220C before you start to form the charred solid byproducts that can clog the nozzle. So if you are just preheating your extruder for a few minutes minutes before you start a print, no need to worry. If you're printing a part that is going to be constantly switching between PLA and PVA supports, there is also no need to worry. The only time you could get into trouble is if you are heating up the PVA nozzle, but not extruding any material for a long time. The example given above was if you have a part that needs support for the first 15 layers, but then it doesn't need any other support for the next 1000 layers. Personally, it's pretty rare that I print parts like this, but if I do, it's really easy to deal with it in simplify3d. The simplest option is to just edit your process settings to turn off the PVA extruder after layer 15. Takes 2 clicks and you can even pick when and where this happens. Sometimes if I'm doing dual color printing, I use the same technique - if I have a region where I'm only printing with one color, you can just reduce the temperature of the unused extruder for that section. Another thing that I have done in the past is used a prime pillar or a full-height skirt that is always printed with the PVA material. This way you always make sure that you are extruding a small amount of PVA plastic on each layer which keep the nozzle flowing cleanly. Both of these things are really easy to setup, and as I said, I've been using S3D with PVA for about 2 years now. As long as you know a bit about the problems with PVA, it's easy to plan around them. If anyone needs help with setting these things up in S3D, let me know and I can explain it more.

Anyways, if you're new to 3D printing, I really wouldn't recommend printing with PVA at all. It has far too many issues compared to the other filaments mentioned above. But if you do choose to use it, just make sure you understand the things to look out for.

[neotko 1,417]

Super. The truth is that since the Cura heating/cooling automagic system has all the (for pva specially) control about when the pva stays heat for too long/short is easier for a new user to get all under control.

I was over protective while explaining all because I don't want to ruin any printer of a newb user. So indeed I agree with all that you say, but since I'm a moderator I don't want a newb user to get the profile and forget to tune all.

I really think that s3d should enable a pva heat/cool control not just for um3 but for any printer is a must (imo). Ofc I prefer s3d over cura by a mile, but that's for other post XD

Also what you say about changing the layer where it cools or heats, that's the way.

I think as soon I get time I'll fuse the s3d profile with ours to have their starting sequence and retract control on the toolchange. And also add the cool/heat minimum for pla to stop dripping at all that on um3 is around 200C tops. And since the cores heat at 2.3C each second, the delay time isn't huge.

I wish s3d could allow math on their scrips, that could make many processes much easier.

[element7721 3]

I've seen just as many people who clogged their nozzles by just preheating the machine and leaving it idle for too long. For example, they heat it up to change the filament and then forget about it for 30 minutes while they are doing someone else on the computer. I've also seen people who changed their ending script to prevent the machine from cooling down at the end, which would allow them to print back-to-back parts quicker. So regardless of what software you are using, there's lots of ways you can create problems when working with PVA. So that's why I tried to write some extra info above - I think it's much more important for a new user to understand why they have to be careful with PVA and what things to watch out for. They will still need to remember those things even when working with Cura to do machine maintenance or when performing manual operations on the LCD panel.

Back to the simplify3d profile, personally, I really hate waiting for the temperatures to constantly change in the extruders. I would rather just set them to a constant temperature for as long as I need them, and they turn them off when I'm done (or when they are no longer needed for that section of the print). It's also quite rare that I print a part that has 1000's of layers that aren't using the PVA, so this is far easier for me. But of course, other people may prefer something else. Maybe it makes sense to have one version of the profile that automatically cools down the PVA extruder every time it changes tools and another where it just stays at a constant temperature. Then people can choose which ever one they prefer.

[neotko 1,417]

Been playing a lot with S3D after doing some serius modding to my um3. And found a bug on the way we and Simplify3D guys been doing the the Tool change.

The classic toolchange uses a tool offset by a gcode command. S3D profile (and mine) applies a X-18 on the second toolhead. This forces to change the offset all the time, because if you change the offset you change where the toolchange occurs.

Basically... and since most of you won't know about this stuff.

The problem with this system is 'IF' you 'Pause' while printing with the Second Core, you will force the printer to HIT X and will make all your print shift, making it a huge problem.

The solution is to change the offset of the Gcode generated, just like Cura does. Forcing the Second Core to have a -18X offset (the fine tuning between tools is managed by the printer firmware). So... Do this and edit your toolchange sequence to remove the M18 Gcode offset align

Downside? The Gcode preview will show shifted Gcode, so is bad for previews, but is good for prints. Disable the option to make a gcode preview of how the print looks if you want.

OFC This is only if you ever plan to hit Pause while using Core 2. If you don't, you can keep using the M218 trick that Simplify3d beta profile and my profile does.

Upside? You can actually see if you are printing outside the print area on the gcode preview... You know, because while using dual you have 18mm less of X print area.

[BumbleDuck 0]

Thanks so much for putting this together!

If I'm trying to do single extruder prints with an UM3 do you recommend the S3D profile or yours? Based on the dates I think its the more recent one.

I noticed theirs is set for the right extruder. I assume I'm supposed to move the AA core over to the right extruder slot and completely remove the BB one?

Sorry I'm one of those newbs you were trying to save

[neotko 1,417]

I would drop a email to S3D support so they send you an updated profile.

The name of the profile says RightPLA, don't worry that doesn't matter.

When using the profile use this to select which will print

Also, the profile they made has quite a few small issues when doing dual. I'm working on a profile that so far works perfectly for dual, but is quite slow since it has heat/cold/heat on the toolchange. I was able to remove all the bugs from mine and their profile and made a quite decent profile. The issue is that I have changed my UM3 to 1.75, so the starting sequence might or not work with normal 2.85mm. So it needs more testing and with Christmas I'm quite busy.

So... Going back to the point. Ask S3D for a profile, use the selector to choose which Core will print, and you should be good to go (for singles).

[neotko 1,417]

With the new UM3 app

Ultimaker 3 por Ultimaker

https://appsto.re/es/wiTIdb.i

S3D users can upload his gcode to icloud (for example) and with this app you can send the gcode to the printer by wifi. I been using it for a time (during beta) and it works perfectly. Also this way you always have the gcode backup on your icloud to check what went wrong or fast reprint.

[Spring3d 0]

Will this profile work for a UM2+ extended and upgraded to dual extrusion?

Please provide a link to the latest (RC1.3?) fff profile. I cannot seam to find this link.

Thanks for your support

[fabreax 15]

Please provide a link to the latest (RC1.3?) fff profile.  I cannot seam to find this link.

 

Thanks for your work. I'm also interested in your S3D alternative profile.

[neotko 1,417]

 

Please provide a link to the latest (RC1.3?) fff profile.  I cannot seam to find this link.

 

Thanks for your work. I'm also interested in your S3D alternative profile.

 

I won't be doing profiles for um3 for a time, I'm so busy with work and the zge extruder, and while I have more profiles done that can work they need a bit of care to be released for public use. Maybe in a month or so, but for now I can't.

Also I think until S3D copies the Cura heat/cold system, no matter how good the profiles are it could be problematic if you are a new user to use this profiles.

I would suggest to the users to send a mail to s3d support so they update their software to handle dual better, that will help a lot.

[fabreax 15]

I'm already talking with the S3D support because I had a bug in their profile ^^

[The3DPrintStudio 5]

Are you able to use the full build area in the S3D Ultimaker 3 profile, or does it not account for the unprintable areas the way cura 2.4 does?

[neotko 1,417]

You could print, but also you could hit something. S3D doesn't stop the slice, it can make gcode outside the print area, it relies on the user to use or don't use that file. So he can actually make brims outside the print area, but that will create errors.

Basically yes, but also, beware the bed clips/switch mechanism

[fabreax 15]

Yes, with the UM2, the nozzle can hit the bed clips (S3D shoudl have the same issue with the UM3 ) !

I don't use Cura because of the poor rendering compared to S3D. S3D displays every layer, supports ...

[The3DPrintStudio 5]

 

@fabreax Does setting origin offsets help with the bed area and the unprintable areas?

[fabreax 15]

@fabreax Does setting origin offsets help with the bed area and the unprintable areas?

 

Origin offsets ?

[The3DPrintStudio 5]

It is a setting under the G-Code tab in the process. I think it is used to set unprintable areas of the printbed, but I haven't tried it out myself.