How can you print with a res of 0.05 on this?

[rebekah_harper 60]

hiya all

I have been trying to sort out this problem.

I have received a new print plate from the supplier but it has the same problem as my original. it isn't flat.

If you look at the pictures you can see that there is a slight bend but the height difference means that in no way could you do a print at a 0.05mm or even 0.1mm beyond a certain surface area.

Have I missed something or is there a theory behind it that I haven't come accross that allows someone to print on a bed like this.

you can see that it's only along the X-axis and not along the Y-axis.

The last two are the ruler along the Y-axis.

Ive had the printer for a while, and it hasn't been an issue as the prints haven't been that big but now I need to do some bigger prints and I simply can't because the nozzle starts to dig into the bed.

hope there is some light at the end of the tunnel here.

many thanks

Rebekah Anderson

[AreDigg 8]

The clips will bend the plate somewhat anyway. I doubt you can get a perfectly even glass plate. As long as you calibrate and have a slightly higher first layer, it is not an issue.

If however you need the first layer to be perfectly flat, i.e. less than 0,05 mm, you are in the wrong ballpark.

[flowalistik 181]

I had a similar problem (maybe not that big) and I solved it using a first layer height of 0.15/0.2mm. This way I'm sure the first layer works and then I can still use a 0.1/0.08mm layer height for the other ones.

Also, as @AreDigg mentions, the clips will hold the glass firmly to the aluminum plate and that will also help.

If you print anything with this glass, please share your experiences, I'd like to see which is the biggest tolerance in the first layer.

[Melka 57]

I found Ultimaker's 2/2+/3 bed glass to be pure crap.

Those glass beds:

 

1. are definitely NOT flat. And the bend PCB heater won't help you when you'll clip the glass;
   
2. chip easily (confirmed on 2, 2+ and... 3), even with PLA. So take your time to remove some stuck prints by putting them in the freezer;
   
3. are not stickier than regular glass and still vastly inferior to PEI sheets;
   
4. too expensive, around 30 euros.
   

 

Just pay a visit to your local hardware store and ask them to cut plates in 4mm glass. Cost me less than 3 euros and a bit of sanding on the edges.

It may not be borosilicate-unicorn-jizz-coated-glass but I didn't see any difference... apart from the fact that it's now flat.

Edited December 5, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

chip easily (confirmed on 2, 2+ and... 3), even with PLA. So take your time to remove some stuck prints by putting them in the freezer

 

Just about this. If you take a print before 40C you can deform and chip the glass. Unless you use this trick I found out. So far works perfectly, no deformation and I can pop the prints at 40-45C without any deformation.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/33206-greentec-pla-easy-removal-after-hairspray

About the glass. Dunno what's the minimum deformation acceptable to print. If your print needs to be precise use a raft like the 20-50k printers do.

Edited December 5, 2016 by Guest

[Melka 57]

Crazy tip, thanks Neotko

[Yoter 14]

Be sure to check the glass when heated. When I have prints I need to get real dialed in, I will heat my plate, check my glass then flip and repeat. I find using a machinist straitedge and feelers gauges, I can typically find one side that is close enough. I hate to say it, but I have found I need to check each print, as the glass will move over time. I thought I could be slick and etch a "A" and "B" on the plate and note the +/- deviation and use that as a cheater, but over a year, side "A" is now where side "B" used to be.

I have to say neotko is right that printing on a raft is your best bet for popping it off the build plate and running with it. I hate rafts, so I usually the print, then let Simplify put support with a few dense layers on top. I find that peels easier than a raft. If I am slicing in Cura, I'll lift the print and play with support infill to get it where I need. I've had one too many prints where I have used a raft only to have it refuse to come loose in places and take parts of the print in other places. Typically, if I am that concerned about my first layer being dead-on-flat, I can't afford to lose/add anything.

By far my easiest solution so far if I need it to be that close is to make the piece slightly tall where it touches the buildplate, then sand/file/grind the base of the print to spec.

[rebekah_harper 60]

Many thanks for the replies.

I went to 3dgbire and spoke to them about it.

We took two more new in wrap, build plates and they were curved too. These were the ones with the white corner protectors.

Even to the naked eye you could see it. The deviation was around 0.6mm

we then took ones with black corner protectors and this turned out good.

So in short, there is a bad batch of glass plates.

Regards

Rebekah Anderson