Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

Personal Information

  • Country
  1. What I tried that worked was drilling and tapping a second grub screw into the opposite side of the pulley and using two set screws with some blue locktite on the shaft of the stepper on install. It's way overkill and I'll probably never be able to remove the pulley again, but I have a drawer full of pulleys and I was rage-building after losing a 45 hour print in hour 40. Not the best from a serviceability standpoint, but I've never worn out a pulley thus far and it hasn't needed any tightening in six months of 24/7 operation since so I'll take it!
  2. Yoter

    Project Ideas

    I help several local schools with 3D printers, I've donated some and supported a few. I have a few schools asking for project ideas for elementary level students, and was hoping I could post here and see what ideas some of you have seen. I have three elementary level students, but they grew up in my shop, and I am guessing the projects they take on are not a good guide. I am putting together a sheet with project ideas and a teachers guide. I am hoping to tap the community for ideas they have tried/want to try to get as many projects in the guide as possible. I then plan to develop the g
  3. I just flashed a new board using 15.x on one of my UM2s, I had to reset and re-hook the printer a few times before it saw it. I am not sure why, but it did take a few tries. Same spot as you, I run that machine tethered to a metal plus every day, but it just took a few attempts before it saw and updated the Ultimaker.
  4. I second gr5's suggestion for a larger nozzle, as well. I use a .6 for brassfill, woodfill, and lots of other exotics. It seems the quicker you can get them out the nozzle, the better luck you have. The thicker layers bridge better a lot of times, as well. What retraction setting are you running? I like to retract hard and fast, but sometimes have to back it down when I'm printing exotics, I would think 4.0-4.5mm at 40mm/s.
  5. What settings are you running? When i run into issues like that, the first thing I do is slow it down. I would also look at the filament if I saw something like that. It looks too hot or like over-extrusion. Make sure your nozzle isn't worn or your nozzle size is set wrong...I've changed nozzles to a .25 and gone screwy when I sat down at the computer and sliced for a .8mm nozzle before. I'd really look at the filament, though. Did this just start recently? Your pics are kinda fuzzy, but if I knew my nozzle and filament were good, I'd slow my print speed first, then start looking at
  6. What settings are you running? What filaments? It looks hot, I wouldn't expect to see layer droop like that unless I was way hot. Without knowing anything more of your settings, it's hard to say. Could always be the filament...did you change filament? Do you have pics of the other print?
  7. That's what it's all about! We print lots of parts, only to tweak, redesign and print again. We have in-house manufacturing, but I have found that the printer doesn't gripe about going from V1 to V1.1...V1.2...V1.3 like an operator does. It may take longer than machining, but the important thing is it takes longer all by itself without an operator watching it and doesn't take longer in the middle of my production flow!
  8. Be sure to check the glass when heated. When I have prints I need to get real dialed in, I will heat my plate, check my glass then flip and repeat. I find using a machinist straitedge and feelers gauges, I can typically find one side that is close enough. I hate to say it, but I have found I need to check each print, as the glass will move over time. I thought I could be slick and etch a "A" and "B" on the plate and note the +/- deviation and use that as a cheater, but over a year, side "A" is now where side "B" used to be. I have to say neotko is right that printing on a raft is your b
  9. I always love/hate when switching filament makes a problem go away. I love that my machine is okay, I hate that I spend all that time chasing a problem that is just the filament being stubborn.
  10. I have not run the Bondtech feeder before so I can't chime in on how it does with flexible, but I have run kilos through the E3D-V6, the Printrbot Ubis Ceramic and Ubis 13S hot ends, as well as through my UM2 with an Olsson Block. I've also messed with flexibles through a few different TAZ5/6 machines with their hexagon hot end, I liked them but don't own them so I can't go into too much depth about their reliability over many prints. I gotta say the E3D-V6 does remarkably well with it. While I don't necessarily have experience with with the Bondtech, I do have a lot of time "playing" (rea
  11. I buy my parts and nozzles from George Roberts (GR5) at thegr5store.com He has lots of different nozzles and always seems to have cool new things that cause me to start impluse-buying. Don't know how many times I went to his site to buy two nozzles, only to leave with a half dozen items ordered. He's also excellent at responding to emails and questions. If you're in the US, he's who I would go through!
  12. I use 3-in-1 on my machine. It always leaves a light film of oil and I don't see any shaft wear. We use the same oil on a bunch of our machines in the shop, which is the primary reason I use it. As Jameshs pointed out, only get the drip kind! There is a 3-in-1 garage door lubricant, and I believe some other iterations that are spray on. Most of these have silicone or lithium additives to leave a heavy coat of lube, which attracts dirt quickly and makes the black mess. This is fine on garage doors with a lot of slop, not so much on linear guides. The main thing to remember is to clea
  13. I plan to transfer my heat sinks. Should I add breather holes to the board mount enclosure? I was even considering drilling the outside housing some to allow air to pass over the board, as my current active cooling system does seem to be a bit of a dead end, air goes in but there is no good way for it to come out. Does anyone know what the "spongy weird cool material that dissipates heat" on the UM3 is? I run a lot of machines and do so successfully, mainly because one of my quirks is I take every failure in turn, analyze the hell out of it, and make sure it never happens again. If I can
  14. Definitely the PCB! Came in today and the printer had stalled. With the steppers removed from the axis, they only turn 1/4 turn before stalling out. Honestly, I'm glad it happened now while the printer has been listed on the injured/disabled list than after it had ran great for a week or two and I had told the bosses we were all good...always quicker to say "all fixed" online than to the guy who signs my checks! I'll get a PCB board coming and I think I'm gonna leave the steppers at 1100mA on the new one. I imagine with them turned down and the cooling on a new board, it'll be bulletproof
  15. I've had similar problems before (we've all been there!). Here's what I've seen in the past: My PTFE coupler deformed over time. This is easy to check, remove the bowden and the nozzle from the head and straighten out a piece of filament, does it pass through the head with no resistance? I have had the feeder get clogged with dust from filament on my first printer. I blow it out with canned air every week when I do my weekly checks/maintenance. Check to make sure there are not filament strings/debris inside your bowden tube. Check your filament diameter. You're using good stuff, but i
  • Create New...