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amedee

Yet another E3D V6 mount for UMO

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I guess there is no real benefit if you just print PLA.

The stock hot end is quite good, so why change it?

Well if you want to print more ´technical´ filaments (XT, carbon, ...) you will need to increase the temperature and this is not good for the UMO hot end: beyond 240°C your PFTE coupler won't last long and at 250°C you reach the limit for the PEEK...

So if you need to print hot E3D is an easy alternative.

Does it clog? Not for the few PLA prints I did, but from what I have read it is not not the best feature of the E3D. If you really want to print PLA with it it would be wise to go for the 1.75mm version which has a PFTE liner in it, but then you need to change/modify your extruder as well.

Better for flex? I doubt, typical issues with flex on UMO have nothing to do with the hot end.

Edited by Guest

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So the only real benefit is in printing exotic materials that require hotter temps?

Do you feel there is any print quality difference between the two for PLA or ABS?

Also, if I want to keep printing PLA, would it be possible to have both my UMO and E3D hotends attached at the same time (I have dual extrusion upgrade) and just take off the E3D and use the UMO hotend for PLA, then reattach the E3D when I wish to use it for ABS and all other hotter materials?

Is the E3D easy to remove and reinstall?

Edited by Guest

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So the only real benefit is in printing exotic materials that require hotter temps?

 

Yes.

My personal interests are in functional parts, so it is the majority of what I print (and I have 2 printers :p )

 

Do you feel there is any print quality difference between the two for PLA or ABS?

 

Using the same nozzle and fan system on both, there is virtually no difference.

Note that if you print ABS you are already in the 'danger zone' for your PFTE coupler ;)

 

Also, if I want to keep printing PLA, would it be possible to have both my UMO and E3D hotends attached at the same time (I have dual extrusion upgrade) and just take off the E3D and use the UMO hotend for PLA, then reattach the E3D when I wish to use it for ABS and all other hotter materials?

Is the E3D easy to remove and reinstall?

 

If you are using X/Y blocks like Chopmeister's TwisterBlocks it takes 10 minutes to swap heads (providing you have connectors for your wires at the top of the head). Then it is just the matter of re-levelling your bed.

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With a bit of delay, it magically appeared today in Google's cache, so i have what I was looking for ;)

Just waiting on some feedback from the YouMagine folks, I leave everything 'as is' for now in case it would help them to identify the problem.

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I have deleted everything and re-uploaded the design, it should be OK now.

Also, this version is a drop-in replacement from the UMO hot end and re-uses the fan which is not the best option if you need to print details ;)

I have slightly adapted @neotko's fan cap for the E3D:

SuperNeoTkoE3d.thumb.jpg.d1bbe75304b7836bc88c6006b48aef92.jpg

That par is on YouMagine as well:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-version-of-neotko-s-symmetric-dual-fans-for-umo

SuperNeoTkoE3d.thumb.jpg.d1bbe75304b7836bc88c6006b48aef92.jpg

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I have deleted everything and re-uploaded the design, it should be OK now.

Also, this version is a drop-in replacement from the UMO hot end and re-uses the fan which is not the best option if you need to print details ;)

I have slightly adapted @neotko's fan cap for the E3D:

SuperNeoTkoE3d.thumb.jpg.d1bbe75304b7836bc88c6006b48aef92.jpg

That par is on YouMagine as well:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-version-of-neotko-s-symmetric-dual-fans-for-umo

 

Hi Amedee, would be doing this upgrade as soon as I receive my E3D V6, ordered both for 1.75 and 3.00mm, as I'm building an FT5 and would like to upgrade to an E3D hotend.

My question is what is the upside of installing the 1.75mm over the 3.00mm V6 for the UMO and what kind of works does it entails. Thanks again for your help.

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I have no experience with 1.75...

The 1.75 E3D hot end should be better than the 3.0mm as they have a pfte liner in the head which should eliminate clogging with PLA. If you go for 1.75 you need to change the Bowden and for good results you should change the extruder as well.

See this article from @neotko for the details: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20556-ultimaker-original-175mm-filament-conversion

I stayed with 3mm because I have quite a lot of 3mm filament and my printing volume does not justify the change...

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I have no experience with 1.75...

The 1.75 E3D hot end should be better than the 3.0mm as they have a pfte liner in the head which should eliminate clogging with PLA. If you go for 1.75 you need to change the Bowden and for good results you should change the extruder as well.

See this article from @neotko for the details: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20556-ultimaker-original-175mm-filament-conversion

I stayed with 3mm because I have quite a lot of 3mm filament and my printing volume does not justify the change...

 

Thanks for the reply Amadee. I will then stick with the 3mm setup.

Are the stock UMO heater catridge and the thermocoupler wires compatible with the E3D heater block and the electronic board, or the wires/cables must be swapped. Also, what kind of firmware upgrade does it involve, if any.

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I used the E3D (24v) heater cartridge and the E3D thermocouple. The thermocouple is compatible with the UMO amplifier. The downside is the UMO is 19V, so it takes a bit more time to warm up (But I can still print at 270°C without problem). I plan to feed the UMO with 24V later anyway.

If you want to keep the UMO heater cartridge, you need to keep the Ultimaker heater block as well.

Other than that, you just need to connect the hot-end cooling fan on 19V on the board.

No firmware change needed, unless you want to print hotter than 265°C, in that case you can bake a shiny new firmware here (my usual shameless plug :p )

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I used the E3D (24v) heater cartridge and the E3D thermocouple. The thermocouple is compatible with the UMO amplifier. The downside is the UMO is 19V, so it takes a bit more time to warm up (But I can still print at 270°C without problem). I plan to feed the UMO with 24V later anyway.

If you want to keep the UMO heater cartridge, you need to keep the Ultimaker heater block as well.

Other than that, you just need to connect the hot-end cooling fan on 19V on the board.

No firmware change needed, unless you want to print hotter than 265°C, in that case you can bake a shiny new firmware here (my usual shameless plug :p)

 

Fast and concise replies as usual. Really appreciate your help Amadee!

Not to concerned about heating on just a 19v, will be printing mostly PLA and ABS.

So to clarify, will be using the E3D heater cartridge and thermocoupler and these are compatible and just plug into the electronics board without any mods, adapters or firmware change?

Will be doing the upgrade soon, hoping it's not to difficult, and will be posting

updates. Thanks again.

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So to clarify, will be using the E3D heater cartridge and thermocoupler and these are compatible and just plug into the electronics board without any mods, adapters or firmware change?

 

Yes, providing you have the E3D thermocouple -- to avoid any misunderstandings: by default the E3D is sold with a thermistor not with a thermocouple. So if you ordered a thermocouple you are fine.

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Also, the E3D V6 mount will use the stock linear bearings? Thinking of changing to an Igus Drylin bearings. What are your thoughts, and wil they fit with your mount design?

 

Yes it is designed for the stock bearings.

I was also initially thinking to use Igus bearings, but there are none with that particular size. I would have to use 2 smaller ones, but then it would be slightly longer and  you would loose print surface...

Edited by Guest

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Also, the E3D V6 mount will use the stock linear bearings? Thinking of changing to an Igus Drylin bearings. What are your thoughts, and wil they fit with your mount design?

 

Yes it is designed for the stock bearings.

I was also initially thinking to use Igus bearings, but there are none with that particular size. I would have to use 2 smaller ones, but then it would be slightly longer and  you would loose print surface...

 

This one shows using 1 Igus RJZM_01_06 bearing but with a 3d printed bushing to compensate for the size, this solution would probably work for your mount as well.

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