UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
Removing Print from heated bed by "Cool Air Spray"?
Posted
· Removing Print from heated bed by "Cool Air Spray"?
I used to swear by this method as it does work well, but the spray causes condensation and whenever i used it, it forced me to re-apply the glue which i hate doing. I only use it to blow dust of my filament now.
Try neoktos windows cleaner and hairspray method, that looks good!
I personally have gotten used to printing with a very thin layer of pritt stick power and never have to re-apply the glue or re-level.
I can't even remember the last time i re-levelld or applied glue to the plate.
On a side note, if you print the first layer slower than the rest, then you will most likely get peeling. Try and print the entire model at the same speed for maximum quality and maximum strength.
Others say they are concerned that impurities are in the air duster cans but don't worry about that its irrelevant. Just use short bursts and you be fine. The quickest way with the air duster can is to find a tiny part that you can get under and poke the straw of the dusted into it and spray. You'll hear it crack and if you turn the plate upside-down you'll see where the print has come loose, so you can put more pressure to it, so you can release it.
By the way you need to be holding the spray can upside down to get the really cold air plume!!! Holding it the correct way is useless.
Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
Recommended Posts
cloakfiend 995
I used to swear by this method as it does work well, but the spray causes condensation and whenever i used it, it forced me to re-apply the glue which i hate doing. I only use it to blow dust of my filament now.
Try neoktos windows cleaner and hairspray method, that looks good!
I personally have gotten used to printing with a very thin layer of pritt stick power and never have to re-apply the glue or re-level.
I can't even remember the last time i re-levelld or applied glue to the plate.
On a side note, if you print the first layer slower than the rest, then you will most likely get peeling. Try and print the entire model at the same speed for maximum quality and maximum strength.
Others say they are concerned that impurities are in the air duster cans but don't worry about that its irrelevant. Just use short bursts and you be fine. The quickest way with the air duster can is to find a tiny part that you can get under and poke the straw of the dusted into it and spray. You'll hear it crack and if you turn the plate upside-down you'll see where the print has come loose, so you can put more pressure to it, so you can release it.
By the way you need to be holding the spray can upside down to get the really cold air plume!!! Holding it the correct way is useless.
Link to post
Share on other sites
neotko 1,417
Thanks @cloakfiend
My easy method is just a few drops of windowasher after the print is done. For pla I wait to 40C, to avoid fast evaporation, but at 45C is ok.
So far for me works with Recreus Filaflex, Pla, Platec, Ninjaflex Semiflex.
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/33206-greentec-pla-easy-removal-after-hairspray
Link to post
Share on other sites