basteluwe 1 Posted February 17, 2017 in Removing Print from heated bed by "Cool Air Spray"? Hi guys, my only way to speed up getting prints from the heated bed is putting the glas plate in the fridge. I hate the procedure and the wife hates me doing it From my electronic hobbies I know spray cans, that provide cool air (or some kind of gas anyway). Did anyone try those? I really don't like to remove the plate every time. And just wait for it to cool down by itself is really waisting time. What do you think? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cloakfiend 634 Posted February 17, 2017 in Removing Print from heated bed by "Cool Air Spray"? I used to swear by this method as it does work well, but the spray causes condensation and whenever i used it, it forced me to re-apply the glue which i hate doing. I only use it to blow dust of my filament now. Try neoktos windows cleaner and hairspray method, that looks good! I personally have gotten used to printing with a very thin layer of pritt stick power and never have to re-apply the glue or re-level. I can't even remember the last time i re-levelld or applied glue to the plate. On a side note, if you print the first layer slower than the rest, then you will most likely get peeling. Try and print the entire model at the same speed for maximum quality and maximum strength. Others say they are concerned that impurities are in the air duster cans but don't worry about that its irrelevant. Just use short bursts and you be fine. The quickest way with the air duster can is to find a tiny part that you can get under and poke the straw of the dusted into it and spray. You'll hear it crack and if you turn the plate upside-down you'll see where the print has come loose, so you can put more pressure to it, so you can release it. By the way you need to be holding the spray can upside down to get the really cold air plume!!! Holding it the correct way is useless. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neotko 1,354 Posted February 17, 2017 in Removing Print from heated bed by "Cool Air Spray"? Thanks @cloakfiend My easy method is just a few drops of windowasher after the print is done. For pla I wait to 40C, to avoid fast evaporation, but at 45C is ok. So far for me works with Recreus Filaflex, Pla, Platec, Ninjaflex Semiflex. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/33206-greentec-pla-easy-removal-after-hairspray 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
