Hmmm... I really think there is some kind of cracks in your slider blocks.
It's not always easy to see but I would suggest you to change them, just to be sure.
On our machine, all 4 white slider blocks cracked so I'm pretty sure you should take a more careful look.
Note that on the UM3 currently sold, they used the UM2/UM2+ black slider blocks. Those are less slick than the white ones, but they are sturdy!
By the way @SandervG , I think it would be nice of you if you send 4 black slider blocks and a roll of filament to each UM3 customer that happens to have the white slider blocks. It would be fair as we trusted you by betting on this new printer and end up loosing many hours understanding the issue, posting, requesting parts and replacing them on a brand new machine.
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SandervG 1,522
Hi @Ronan, thank you for your message.
Ohh, must not have been a pretty sight to walk into. I'm happy to hear you were able to put the rods back in place, which seemed to have worked.
Are you sure the slider blocks do not show some kind of crack? This could reduce the amount of force which is necessary to make it 'drop' the rods.
Can they easily be pushed out now, after you put them back in?
In a normal scenario, this must not be possible of course.
It could be that for some reason during the print, the head repeatedly ran into a part on the buildplate which lead to a rod getting out of its socket. With good slider blocks the chance this happens would look very small to me, so if there was a crack in one of them it could be more likely.
Alternatively, could there have been a collision with the switch dock or something?
In any case, regarding a calibration, I would run the switch dock calibration, and calibrate the Z stage again, just to be sure. The margins between a good and bad layer adhesion are small.
When the Ultimaker 3 is turned off, can you easily with your hand move the print head around? No uncommon friction coming from the rods anywhere?
Looking forward hearing from you,
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