kmanstudios 1,120
Also, what machine, temps, materials and surface stick are you using?
But, the cleaning is really key as mentioned.
Also, what machine, temps, materials and surface stick are you using?
But, the cleaning is really key as mentioned.
No surface stick, just using a new piece of glass. Bed temp 60, PLA, temp 205 (I believe) I'm not at my computer.
Clean the heck out of it as suggested.
Also consider using some sort of barrier for PLA. I actually chipped one of my glass buildplates trying to remove a really stuck on PLA piece I printed a while back. I use a PVA slurry.
It self levels the pits that will occur as well as put a barrier between the part and the glass that can be dissolved away and free the part.
Do not use windows cleaners, white spirit, cheap alcohols for cleaning. They tend to leave soap or oil residues on the glass, which destroy bonding. Only use isopropyl alcohol, which dissolves oils. Then wipe again with pure water. And don't touch with your fingers. The current marks look like fingerprints.
If you live in a moist climate, moist air also reduces bonding. Then I would suggest you try a bonding method: try my "salt method" (PLA only), see: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/
Or try dilluted white wood glue (1 part glue in 10 parts water), or hair spray (spray on a tissue, then wipe the glass; never spray directly in the printer), or the supplied glue stick (you can wipe and spread it with a wet tissue afterwards).
Whatever method you like most.
Also, make sure the build plate is warm enough, around 60°C for PLA.
Recommended Posts
rowiac 53
Make sure your build plate is *perfectly* clean. Clean it with an alcohol-based glass cleaner and do not touch it with your bare fingers.
I had a worse bubbling/lifting issue when I tried using silicone oil to lubricate the filament in the bowden tube.
Link to post
Share on other sites