You might need different temperature for a different plastic - but also you should check the filament diameter; if this filament is thinner than what you were using before, then you will get under-extrusion unless you change the filament diameter setting in your slicer.
I just got my printer working, and was using the silver PLA ultimaker supplied with the kit. it works flawlessly, but when I switched to a semi transparent pink color, none of my prints stay together. I tried to print the robot out using that pink PLA, and it was acting as if the material was not sticking to itself. when the print was done, the head and body of the robot just fell off.
I didn't change any settings when I switched from silver to that pink color. should I of changed something?
also, where do you guys buy your PLA/ABS from in the US? I was going to buy straight from ultimaker, but the shipping is just to high.
thanks.
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gr5 2,238
Transparent PLA's I hear are more difficult to manufacture and may have a narrower print temperature range. Anyway, temperature is the key here. Print something very simple - like a 10mmX10mm box that is 40mm tall. Make sure you print slowly enough that no layer is printed in under 10 seconds. Start out at 240C and print enough to see a good amount, then lower the temp to 230C and then quickly mark the current print height with a sharpie. Repeat until you jam or it stops printing (around 170-180C). Keep notes at the same time. Something like this test print:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/
Then be a nice person and post your results in "the art of printing" section.
Regarding your second question, this isn't the cheapest but it has excellent quality! Which is more important than price - for example if the diameter hits 3.1mm the filament will be larger than the inside of the bowden and will jam and you will end up throwing the whole roll away even if it only happens once every 20 meters:
http://printbl.com
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