Thicken Spiralize Outer Contour

[OfficialJoshTayl 0]

Hello,

I would like to use the "Spiralize Outer Contour" option in Cura for a vase project that I'm printing, but a single wall is too thin for my project.

I tried to do a double wall manually by setting Infill to 0%, Top Layer Count to 0, and turning off Spiralize Outer Contour. Everything sliced fine and the vase looks great, except that there are travel lines throughout the print. When I printed, it had an excessive amount of mini strings that were hard to remove that had not appeared when I used the Spiralize feature.

So, my question is, can I add wall layers to the Spiralize feature? And if not, what is the best way to keep all the string out of the print?

Thank you,

OfficialJoshTaylor

[gr5 2,167]

To make it water tight it really is best to do it in one single walled spiral.

However you should also over extrude to make the walls thicker. This is done automatically. So for example if you have a 0.4mm nozzle (what kind of printer do yo have? Please add to your account settings) and you tell cura the shell size is 0.8mm then it will doubly extrude.

Even better, use a 0.8mm nozzle or larger.

This is difficult to get .8mm traces out of a .4mm nozzle, but it works. Just print a bit slower.

[OfficialJoshTayl 0]

However you should also over extrude to make the walls thicker.  This is done automatically. [...] This is difficult to get .8mm traces out of a .4mm nozzle, but it works.  Just print a bit slower.

Alright, if I wasn't interested in buying a new nozzle (I'm a bit cheap ), how thick could I print with a 0.4mm nozzle? (I have a Prusa i3)

Thanks for your time,

OfficialJoshTaylor

[gr5 2,167]

You should be able to get a 0.8mm chinese nozzle for about $5 on ebay. I believe any e3dv6 style nozzle will work but I'm not certain as I don't have a prusa.

I think telling the printer you have a 0.8 is fine. Worst case it will underextrude and give you mabye .6mm walls. You can measure with micrometer after it is done.

If you print hotter (e.g. 240C should be okay) and slower the printer can definitely keep up. I would just experiment as it's printing within the TUNE menu and play with temperature and speed from there.

Actually this is good to know in general so I would slice a 30mm cube with no shell (set shell=0) and 100% infill, then once it is up to speed I would play with temperature and print speed to see where you get gaps in the infill and take good notes. Test temperatures from 190C to 240C in 20C increments and graph it for future knowledge (speed versus temp). I did this very thing with my UM2 ages ago. The results depend a lot on temp sensor and even more on feeder power - how hard the feeder can push.