SOLVED newbie advice...

[rich080487 0]

Hi,

I am new to 3D printing, so please be gentle.

I have recently started playing with a UM2+.

I have been reading a lot of forums to try and understand as many settings as possible, and I have definelty managed to improve the quality of my prints (mostly thanks to this community, thanks!).

But I think I need a few points to improve further. I have added a few pictures of my recent attempts at a cube (with and without brim) as well as my cura settings and um2+ settings below.

The prints look pretty good as they get higher, but struggle near the bed. They always seem to warp and/or "elephant feet" at the lower layers; I can remove one but not the other.

Any help appreciated,

Thanks,

Rich

UM2+ material settings

[material]

name=ABS

temperature=240

temperature_0.25=240

retraction_length_0.25=3.00

retraction_speed_0.25=25.00

temperature_0.40=240

retraction_length_0.40=3.00

retraction_speed_0.40=25.00

temperature_0.60=240

retraction_length_0.60=3.00

retraction_speed_0.60=25.00

temperature_0.80=240

retraction_length_0.80=3.00

retraction_speed_0.80=25.00

temperature_1.00=240

retraction_length_1.00=3.00

retraction_speed_1.00=25.00

bed_temperature=80

fan_speed=100

flow=100

diameter=2.85

[/media][/media]

[Labern 773]

That's normally when the bed temp is to high.

What are you using on the glass to help the AND stick?

Also is there a specific reason you are using ABS? It's not the easiest beginner material to use. It's also not as strong as PLA or other materials plus layer adhesion is not that great. So unless you really need ABS I would suggest starting off with PLA first.

[rich080487 0]

@Labern

Thanks for replying.

Ok, I will try lowering the bed temp.

I am using a product called dimafix to help with warping, most of the time it seems to help.

The only reason I am using ABS is because that is what I have (the machine isn't new, and the other material is XT-CF20). I thought PLA and ABS were 2 of the original FDM materials, so thought this would be easier than XT-CF20.

I missed a few other pics from my original post...

Cheers, Rich

[dfw3d 4]

Your top/bottom thickness could be reduced. Doing 1.2 mm of 100% density will cause some shrinking to occur at the build plate. You could also drop your infill density to 20%. From my experience, the more density, the more shrinking, which causes the elephant feet.

[Labern 773]

If you haven't seen it then I would suggest having a look at THIS guide to help trouble shoot your issues.

If you have an Olsson Ruby nozzle then XT-CF20 is easy to print with. ABS is not really suited to 3D printing but by all means use what you've got.

[rich080487 0]

Thanks for all the help, the linked guide is particularly useful!

I think I have got to a good place this afterrnon, so have just set a um robot to build over night. Hopefully it will work, I will post a pic in the morning.

Thanks, Rich

[rich080487 0]

Morning,

Here are a few prints of my overnight UM robot.

I am happy with the results, much much better than my last attempt.

There is still a small amount of warping to the base on one of the corners, and there is still a saggy waistline. Any advice?

Cheers, Rich

[dfw3d 4]

You can reduce your build plate temp to 65 and it might help with the corners. Buy a can of aqua net hair spray (the purple one). Spray a little on a paper towel and wipe on the build plate before printing. It really is the best thing for adhesion. The saggy waistline is probably just because of the overhang. Reducing the heat a little might help this out as well. You'll just need to tweak your temps about 5 degrees at the time and play with it until you dial it in.