UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
4 minutes to 60C is about right. 15 mintues to 100C is about right also. If you are printing ABS you really need to enclose the printer as well and 100C isn't really quite hot enough - 105C is much better (less likely to warp off the bed). You can just use a box and place it on top of the printer without any cutting/taping of the box - if you can find the right size (the boxes you find near photo copiers that hold many reams of paper are perfect and need no modifications). And cover the front of the printer with saran wrap or similar.
This should help it heat slightly faster and also the air inside should reach about 35C which will improve your ABS prints.
Also with ABS you want the fan no higher than 3%. 8% is almost the same as 100% on the um3 fan (I don't know why) so you really need to go down to about 3% or even 1% on the um3 fan with ABS.
If you don't do this your parts may look fine until you break one and realize how weak it is on layer lines (bad layer bonding).
1
Link to post
Share on other sites
gr5 changed the title to Bed heating takes too long. Defect?
Well - when the data sheet says < 4 minutes to heat the bed and the maximum bed temperature is 120, it should not take 15 minutes - unless the datasheet lies. What does it take to 105 then - 30 minutes? It is especially annoying since it is impossible to keep the bed hot like on other printers, since the UM3 turns off the heat plate whenever you change filament or do other operations and it does not show the temperature all the time and you can't see it in the web interface either.
When the advertisement states it can print ABS; it should not require modifications and additional hardware to print ABS - by enclosing it or buying an enclosure. Then it should work out of the box.
For a 5000 USD printer, you'd expect you don't have to do all kinds of fiddling to make it do what it says it can do! This is so incredibly disappointing.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
🚀 Help Shape the Future of Cura and Digital Factory – Join Our Power User Research Program!
We’re looking for active users of Cura and Digital Factory — across professional and educational use cases — to help us improve the next generation of our tools.
Our Power User Research Program kicks off with a quick 15-minute interview to learn about your setup and workflows. If selected, you’ll be invited into a small group of users who get early access to features and help us shape the future of 3D printing software.
🧪 What to Expect:
A short 15-minute kickoff interview to help us get to know you If selected, bi-monthly research sessions (15–30 minutes) where we’ll test features, review workflows, or gather feedback Occasional invites to try out early prototypes or vote on upcoming improvements
🎁 What You’ll Get:
Selected participants receive a free 1-year Studio or Classroom license Early access to new features and tools A direct voice in what we build next
👉 Interested? Please fill out this quick form
Your feedback helps us make Cura Cloud more powerful, more intuitive, and more aligned with how you actually print and manage your workflow.
Thanks for being part of the community,
The full stable release of Cura 5.10 has arrived, and it brings support for the new Ultimaker S8, as well as new materials and profiles for previously supported UltiMaker printers. Additionally, you can now control your models in Cura using a 3D SpaceMouse and more!
Recommended Posts
gr5 2,333
4 minutes to 60C is about right. 15 mintues to 100C is about right also. If you are printing ABS you really need to enclose the printer as well and 100C isn't really quite hot enough - 105C is much better (less likely to warp off the bed). You can just use a box and place it on top of the printer without any cutting/taping of the box - if you can find the right size (the boxes you find near photo copiers that hold many reams of paper are perfect and need no modifications). And cover the front of the printer with saran wrap or similar.
This should help it heat slightly faster and also the air inside should reach about 35C which will improve your ABS prints.
Also with ABS you want the fan no higher than 3%. 8% is almost the same as 100% on the um3 fan (I don't know why) so you really need to go down to about 3% or even 1% on the um3 fan with ABS.
If you don't do this your parts may look fine until you break one and realize how weak it is on layer lines (bad layer bonding).
Link to post
Share on other sites
hoegge 6
Well - when the data sheet says < 4 minutes to heat the bed and the maximum bed temperature is 120, it should not take 15 minutes - unless the datasheet lies. What does it take to 105 then - 30 minutes? It is especially annoying since it is impossible to keep the bed hot like on other printers, since the UM3 turns off the heat plate whenever you change filament or do other operations and it does not show the temperature all the time and you can't see it in the web interface either.
When the advertisement states it can print ABS; it should not require modifications and additional hardware to print ABS - by enclosing it or buying an enclosure. Then it should work out of the box.
For a 5000 USD printer, you'd expect you don't have to do all kinds of fiddling to make it do what it says it can do! This is so incredibly disappointing.
Link to post
Share on other sites