UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
4 minutes to 60C is about right. 15 mintues to 100C is about right also. If you are printing ABS you really need to enclose the printer as well and 100C isn't really quite hot enough - 105C is much better (less likely to warp off the bed). You can just use a box and place it on top of the printer without any cutting/taping of the box - if you can find the right size (the boxes you find near photo copiers that hold many reams of paper are perfect and need no modifications). And cover the front of the printer with saran wrap or similar.
This should help it heat slightly faster and also the air inside should reach about 35C which will improve your ABS prints.
Also with ABS you want the fan no higher than 3%. 8% is almost the same as 100% on the um3 fan (I don't know why) so you really need to go down to about 3% or even 1% on the um3 fan with ABS.
If you don't do this your parts may look fine until you break one and realize how weak it is on layer lines (bad layer bonding).
1
Link to post
Share on other sites
gr5 changed the title to Bed heating takes too long. Defect?
Well - when the data sheet says < 4 minutes to heat the bed and the maximum bed temperature is 120, it should not take 15 minutes - unless the datasheet lies. What does it take to 105 then - 30 minutes? It is especially annoying since it is impossible to keep the bed hot like on other printers, since the UM3 turns off the heat plate whenever you change filament or do other operations and it does not show the temperature all the time and you can't see it in the web interface either.
When the advertisement states it can print ABS; it should not require modifications and additional hardware to print ABS - by enclosing it or buying an enclosure. Then it should work out of the box.
For a 5000 USD printer, you'd expect you don't have to do all kinds of fiddling to make it do what it says it can do! This is so incredibly disappointing.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
Recommended Posts
gr5 2,177
4 minutes to 60C is about right. 15 mintues to 100C is about right also. If you are printing ABS you really need to enclose the printer as well and 100C isn't really quite hot enough - 105C is much better (less likely to warp off the bed). You can just use a box and place it on top of the printer without any cutting/taping of the box - if you can find the right size (the boxes you find near photo copiers that hold many reams of paper are perfect and need no modifications). And cover the front of the printer with saran wrap or similar.
This should help it heat slightly faster and also the air inside should reach about 35C which will improve your ABS prints.
Also with ABS you want the fan no higher than 3%. 8% is almost the same as 100% on the um3 fan (I don't know why) so you really need to go down to about 3% or even 1% on the um3 fan with ABS.
If you don't do this your parts may look fine until you break one and realize how weak it is on layer lines (bad layer bonding).
Link to post
Share on other sites
hoegge 6
Well - when the data sheet says < 4 minutes to heat the bed and the maximum bed temperature is 120, it should not take 15 minutes - unless the datasheet lies. What does it take to 105 then - 30 minutes? It is especially annoying since it is impossible to keep the bed hot like on other printers, since the UM3 turns off the heat plate whenever you change filament or do other operations and it does not show the temperature all the time and you can't see it in the web interface either.
When the advertisement states it can print ABS; it should not require modifications and additional hardware to print ABS - by enclosing it or buying an enclosure. Then it should work out of the box.
For a 5000 USD printer, you'd expect you don't have to do all kinds of fiddling to make it do what it says it can do! This is so incredibly disappointing.
Link to post
Share on other sites