Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Tightening hot-end isolator

Recommended Posts

*never mind this, but I have another question (in my reply)


Until now, all the maintenance I've had to do on my Ultimaker 2+ has used the allen wrenches provided with the printer. Now though, I am trying to do the hot-end isolator tightening maintenance. The medium (2mm) wrench is too small, and the large (2.5 mm) is too large. I've also tried using Allen wrenches from a separate set I had (in those sizes) and the same thing happened. I've never done this maintenance before, so the hex connections should be as they were in the factory. Has anyone else had this problem? Do I need an in-between hex/Allen wrench (3/32 inch??? 2.25 mm???)? Why were Allen wrenches provided that don't work? Or do I need to replace the hot-end isolator?

Edited by ErikR

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, never mind. I was putting the wrench in and trying to rotate the wrench itself instead of putting the wrench in and pushing it around to rotate the metal cylinder. I guess my next question is, how tight is it supposed to be? Turning one way (to the left) definitely loosened it, but turning the other way - while tightening it up some - doesn't get "tight", only slightly tighter than it was when loosened.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well do you have a spring above the white teflon part or do you have a fixed aluminum spacer?


If the ring is too loose the olsson block is too low and it hits the fan shroud and you get lots of HEATER ERROR messages and failed prints when the fans come on.  So make sure you tighten the ring enough so that you can insert a piece of paper from the rear of the head between the block and the fan shroud - this lets you know you have a tiny gap.  As long as there is a tiny gap you are good to print.


If you raise it really high the spring gets compressed more and more and puts more stress on the teflon part.  But it can take it for the most part but I like things as loose as possible such that the block is still not touching the fan shroud.  Which is probably as tight as you can go and then back off one full rotation.  


If you have the aluminum spacer instead of the spring then you tighten until that part is no longer loose.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, gr5. I have the aluminum spacer instead of the spring. The printer seems to be working fine. It was puzzling that it didn't tighten to a secure fit, but since it isn't "loose" and seems to be fine the way it is, I guess that's how it's supposed to be.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Our picks

    • Architect Design Contest | People
      The goal of this contest is to design a set of people figurines that could be used in such a project to make an area, office or mall seem populated. 
      Think of different types of people in different environments, like walking people, people standing still, working people, and both men and women.
      • 6 replies
    • Taking Advantage of DfAM
      This is a statement that’s often made about AM/3DP. I'll focus on the way DfAM can take advantage of some of the unique capabilities that AM and 3DP have to offer. I personally think that the use of AM/3DP for light-weighting is one of it’s most exciting possibilities and one that could play a key part in the sustainability of design and manufacturing in the future.
        • Like
      • 3 replies

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!