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Okay, never mind. I was putting the wrench in and trying to rotate the wrench itself instead of putting the wrench in and pushing it around to rotate the metal cylinder. I guess my next question is, how tight is it supposed to be? Turning one way (to the left) definitely loosened it, but turning the other way - while tightening it up some - doesn't get "tight", only slightly tighter than it was when loosened.
Well do you have a spring above the white teflon part or do you have a fixed aluminum spacer?
If the ring is too loose the olsson block is too low and it hits the fan shroud and you get lots of HEATER ERROR messages and failed prints when the fans come on. So make sure you tighten the ring enough so that you can insert a piece of paper from the rear of the head between the block and the fan shroud - this lets you know you have a tiny gap. As long as there is a tiny gap you are good to print.
If you raise it really high the spring gets compressed more and more and puts more stress on the teflon part. But it can take it for the most part but I like things as loose as possible such that the block is still not touching the fan shroud. Which is probably as tight as you can go and then back off one full rotation.
If you have the aluminum spacer instead of the spring then you tighten until that part is no longer loose.
Thanks, gr5. I have the aluminum spacer instead of the spring. The printer seems to be working fine. It was puzzling that it didn't tighten to a secure fit, but since it isn't "loose" and seems to be fine the way it is, I guess that's how it's supposed to be.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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ErikR 1
Okay, never mind. I was putting the wrench in and trying to rotate the wrench itself instead of putting the wrench in and pushing it around to rotate the metal cylinder. I guess my next question is, how tight is it supposed to be? Turning one way (to the left) definitely loosened it, but turning the other way - while tightening it up some - doesn't get "tight", only slightly tighter than it was when loosened.
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gr5 2,167
Well do you have a spring above the white teflon part or do you have a fixed aluminum spacer?
If the ring is too loose the olsson block is too low and it hits the fan shroud and you get lots of HEATER ERROR messages and failed prints when the fans come on. So make sure you tighten the ring enough so that you can insert a piece of paper from the rear of the head between the block and the fan shroud - this lets you know you have a tiny gap. As long as there is a tiny gap you are good to print.
If you raise it really high the spring gets compressed more and more and puts more stress on the teflon part. But it can take it for the most part but I like things as loose as possible such that the block is still not touching the fan shroud. Which is probably as tight as you can go and then back off one full rotation.
If you have the aluminum spacer instead of the spring then you tighten until that part is no longer loose.
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