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Hi there, long time no see!

 

My printer is a bit old now, especially the hotend is worn off since it is still the first (and only) nozzle and PTFE thingy.

I would prefer to replace the whole thing instead of buying a new original one,

 

I like the E3D v6, but I am not really sure if it fits the UMO since they don't have any 18/19V versions.

 

My electronics (mainboard) is still the one from the UMO, my PSU is the 24V one which is supplied with the heated bed.

So in theory there is 24V available somewhere on the heated-bed board.

 

Furthermore they use another thermocouple, right?

 

 

Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

 

I know that this topic was already discussed several times but mostly for the UMO+ or without any consent.

 

 

 

Edited by ataraxis

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Hi! Oh man, really long time no see...

 

Converting the whole UMO to 24v isnt a big deal - there needs just one part to be replaced by a recom mosfet(.), but in a hurry, I cant find the forum entry right now.

 

Further there are also postings of successfull e3d upgrades existing, but would an um2head be also an option?

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Hey drayson!

 

Is this was you are referring to?

 

Another way would be to replace the electronics by RAMPS, right? hum...

But on both ways I would have to buy the amplifier board or use their K-type sensor... I would really prefer the Pt100.

 

 

@amedee reported somewhere that the original heating block fits the E3D nozzle and the upper metal parts,

so instead of replacing everything I could just replace those two things and buy a fitting 18.5V fan.

 

 

The `um2head` would also be an option, sure, even Ubis, Merlin and the others are :)

I just want to get rid off the old hot-end where I cannot even buy a single nozzle anymore.

 

Cheers!

 

Edited by ataraxis

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I am still using my old UMO (one of the first batches) with the 1.5.3 electronics ;)
I bought some time ago a 1.5.7 board in case the old one would die with my mods, but it is rock solid...

 

What I have made on this printer (in that order):

  • E3D v6 hot end -- worked OK, but slow to reach 280°C with 19V
  • Replaced the Thermocouple by a PT100 + E3D amplifier (Had temp readings instability at some PWM fan speeds)
  • Upgrade to 24V (by just changing the 12V step down regulator)

(I think I have a post for each of these steps)

 

Re. the nozzle / heating blocks they are all using the same threads, except the very old UMO ones (The old hot-end without PFTE coupler)

 

If you don't need to print hot (less than 240°C), there is nothing wrong with the UMO hot-end, just use Olsson or E3 nozzles instead of the stock UMO ones.

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Perfect amedee! That's exactly what I was looking for :)

 

I will install an e3d nozzles at first to fix it temporary, replace the hotend by an E3D v6 afterwards (using the old heating block)

and switch to 24V, including PT100 amplifier board and new regulator - as you did - finally. Thanks!

 

Btw: Have you used the E3D 24V fan at first? (At step 1) Isn't it too slow @18,5V?

Edited by ataraxis

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2 hours ago, ataraxis said:

Btw: Have you used the E3D 24V fan at first? (At step 1) Isn't it too slow @18,5V?

 

I had no issue with that -- I can't remember having done a comparison, but these fans are not very linear, I don't think there is a huge difference...

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Hum, I have a second HeaterBoard (the one which is supplied with the HeatedBed Update) - couldn't I use that for my E3D (instead of for an heated bed)?

 

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You are right, I am going to replace IC1 - as you have shown and adviced here - by a switiching 24V one.

The original E3D comes with an thermistor instead of an thermocouple/pt100, have you ever used that?

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No I never used the Thermistor...

 

I initially used a thermocouple (the E3D one) connected to the UMO amplifier. That worked well, but for some low PWM fan speeds the temperature reading was sometimes unstable (nothing to do with E3D, I had that as well in my original setup)

 

I eventually bought an E3D pt100 with their amplifier and that works perfectly.

 

Thermistor should be OK though -- you will need to add a 4.7K pull-up resistor on the UMO PCB

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Thank you again! ;)

 

I guess I have to use an spare analogue pin for the thermistor?

The E3D documentation says I will have to reconfigure Marlin to "TEMP_SENSOR_0 5" which is "100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)".

So it should look something like that, right? (4,7 instead)

52f81bebce395f3a508b456b.jpg

 

EDIT:

Hum, shouldn't it be fine then to simply hook it between TEMP1-3 and TEMP1-1 on the Ultimaker Shield, since - according to the schematic - it is already designed like that:

 

image.png

Edited by ataraxis

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You can just use the same pin, the place for the resistor is foreseen on the pcb (R23 should be the one for the hot end):

pic-001-2.thumb.jpg.10b952037efba712db233e008d22373a.jpg

(Note that this is my old 1.5.3 board, new ones are slightly different -- the sensors pinout is changed)

Edited by amedee

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