Da Clumsy Noob discovers a way to hot pull PVA midprint

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Did you not keep it in a dry box with desiccant? It is a great way to preserve it long term. I am surprised you cannot resuscitate it.

 

Edit: I am glad you found the problem though. 🙂

 

Edited March 7, 2019 by kmanstudios

[sharahamo 0]

I have tried every possible solution. We do put it in a dry box with desiccant but to no avail. Also tried the oven solution. Probably it has been out for too long and expired? But I wasted more money on failed print and a lot of time too. So far I am having 10 streaks for successful 12 hours printing with my new PVA. 

[kmanstudios 1,120]

34 minutes ago, sharahamo said:

So far I am having 10 streaks for successful 12 hours printing with my new PVA. 

Awesome! :) . The one thing you can do with the old PVA is to dissolve it in water and use it for PVA slurry for bed adhesion. I do this and then add some isopropyl alcohol to it to thin it a bit and make it level out better. I apply it with a brush.

 

This has been my go to bed adhesion method and works really well. I also make sure the glass is really clean first.

[sharahamo 0]

Thanks for the tips! that's a really good idea. I also found out that the colorfabb pla/pha material does not work well with PVA. I have to stick to original ultimaker pla. Shame that they dont have that many color options

[kmanstudios 1,120]

1 hour ago, sharahamo said:

I also found out that the colorfabb pla/pha material does not work well with PVA.

It works for me. I will be posting a pre-post processing print soon with Colorfabb's PLA/PHA.

 

I just seem to have better luck with PVA than most for some reason. Still gives me fits sometimes, but overall much better than most. Dunno why.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

Edit: By and large, I use Matterhackers PVA due to expense. I do use UM PVA too, I just save it for certain projects.....Works awesome with the UM materials.

Edited March 7, 2019 by kmanstudios