On 12/7/2018 at 8:53 PM, gr5 said:I think these are unrelated.
The "too long to warm" issue is probably the head cable as you say. It's trivial to remove the rear two long screws in the head and pop off the rear of the head, reseat the connector, push a little cable in as you put the cover back on (and add some tape as a shim) and re-insert the two long screws. Takes about a minute.
The switches are unrelated to the head. Push the head around and listen for "clicks". Then look to see what makes the click. Sometimes the X rod isn't hitting the Y limit switch when you push it to the rear - X rod needs to stick out a bit to the left to hit that switch. You might simply have to slide the X rod that goes through the head slightly to the left. Maybe only 4mm. Slide it so it hits the wall and then back off at least 1mm.
Check the X switch also when the head moves to the left.
Thank you gr5!
I've did as told, and put new long print . We will see if the problems are solved 🙂
I've checked the switches but they seem ok....
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gr5 2,071
I think these are unrelated.
The "too long to warm" issue is probably the head cable as you say. It's trivial to remove the rear two long screws in the head and pop off the rear of the head, reseat the connector, push a little cable in as you put the cover back on (and add some tape as a shim) and re-insert the two long screws. Takes about a minute.
The switches are unrelated to the head. Push the head around and listen for "clicks". Then look to see what makes the click. Sometimes the X rod isn't hitting the Y limit switch when you push it to the rear - X rod needs to stick out a bit to the left to hit that switch. You might simply have to slide the X rod that goes through the head slightly to the left. Maybe only 4mm. Slide it so it hits the wall and then back off at least 1mm.
Check the X switch also when the head moves to the left.
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